Making Sticky Wax

[J Hayes]

I want to make a batch of sticky wax for hand stitching with linen. Is there any reason I can not use the sap that collects on the trunk of my pine trees for this?

Thanks

Jeremy

[mlapaglia]

Question, why not just use bees wax? It is what is normally used to wax thread. You do not want the thread too sticky. Bees wax does a great job.

Michael

[UberSquid]

Could you use one of those bees wax rings they sell at the hardware store to seal toilets? I can't find bees wax around here.

[renegadelizard]

Could you use one of those bees wax rings they sell at the hardware store to seal toilets? I can't find bees wax around here.

Now that is a novel idea...bravo for thinking outside the box!!!

[mlapaglia]

Yes you could or you could get some on Ebay or even look around at some of the natural food stores. I got mine on Ebay. It was cheap and shipped fast.

As long as its a new ring (eewwwww) it should be fine. Might not be 100% bees wax but as long as its malleable it should work fine.

Michael

[UberSquid]

The one I have I paid $2 for and it says 100% bees wax. It is really soft and stickyat room temp though. I plan on melting it down and mixing it with different ammounts of perafin until I find a consistency that I like then casting small blocks for later use.

[mlapaglia]

Try adding about 30% carnuba wax.. That should harden it up some and also make it good as a rub on finish when the resulting mixture is mixed 1:1 with neets foot oil.

[ChuckBurrows]

I want to make a batch of sticky wax for hand stitching with linen. Is there any reason I can not use the sap that collects on the trunk of my pine trees for this?

Thanks

Jeremy

That's what I use most times these days or the pitch from cut pine.........heat it and then pour into a tall narrow container that can be cut away - the dross (all the crap) will sink to the bottom as it cools - cut that off and you have nice clean pitch. The longer/hotter you heat it the more brittle it will get so be careful - I like a mix of the hard natural stuff and the softer natural stuff - heat to clean and then mix with beeswax (you can buy large amounts online from eBay or candle making supplies) or you can smaller amounts from sewing shops - more expensive that way though. Also check and see if you have any beekeepers in your are - many will give it away free or cheaply - heat/clean the same way I suggested for pitch.

I generally use a mix of about 40% pitch and 60% beeswax (I'd never use paraffin wax since it gets too brittle in my experience).

IMO once you use sticky wax - a version of coad - you will prefer it over plain beeswax - it helps lock the threads in place ans also adds anti-bacterial/fungal properties to the thread which is a good thing when using natural threads like linen or hemp.

[J Hayes]

That's what I use most times these days or the pitch from cut pine.........heat it and then pour into a tall narrow container that can be cut away - the dross (all the crap) will sink to the bottom as it cools - cut that off and you have nice clean pitch. The longer/hotter you heat it the more brittle it will get so be careful - I like a mix of the hard natural stuff and the softer natural stuff - heat to clean and then mix with beeswax (you can buy large amounts online from eBay or candle making supplies) or you can smaller amounts from sewing shops - more expensive that way though. Also check and see if you have any beekeepers in your are - many will give it away free or cheaply - heat/clean the same way I suggested for pitch.

I generally use a mix of about 40% pitch and 60% beeswax (I'd never use paraffin wax since it gets too brittle in my experience).

IMO once you use sticky wax - a version of coad - you will prefer it over plain beeswax - it helps lock the threads in place ans also adds anti-bacterial/fungal properties to the thread which is a good thing when using natural threads like linen or hemp.

Chuck

What is your method for collecting from cut pine?

Jeremy

[ChuckBurrows]

I look for pockets of dry pitch when cutting firewood.....usually occurs with storm damaged trees that have "healed"

[electrathon]

Does it make a difference if the pitch is from pine or fir trees? We mainly have fir trees around here.

Aaron

[amuckart]

Here's how I do it.

Look for local apiarists for beeswax. Look for traditional paint suppliers, or rodeo supply for rosin.

Sap and rosin are different. Rosin is basically sap with a bunch of the volatiles boiled off. Sap itself is way way too soft and sticky.

[Lobo]

A note about melting and mixing waxes: be very careful when doing this. Most waxes are flammable. When melting waxes there can be significant vapors emitted into the air, and a combustion source (like the heat source used for the melting) can ignite those vapors. If done in an enclosed space the result might be an explosion.

I use a mixture of 50% beeswax and 50% paraffin for finishing and burnishing edges. I have this made up for me by a candle maker who has a wax melting machine.

Another method is to use a pot of boiling water, place the waxes to be blended into heavy duty freezer bags, then immerse the bags into the water until the waxes have melted and blended, then pour off the mixture into molds. I've done this outdoors on a camp stove, avoiding any possibility of vapor build up in an enclosed space.

Pine pitch is also quite flammable, and the vapors and residues are extremely irritating to the lungs, nasal passages, and mucuous membranes (ask any old time roofer who has done hot roofing with pitch! Nasty stuff.). If I were attempting to work with pitch I would make very sure there was good ventilation, and avoid any contact with the stuff.

[triage1998]

Here's how I do it.

Look for local apiarists for beeswax. Look for traditional paint suppliers, or rodeo supply for rosin.

Sap and rosin are different. Rosin is basically sap with a bunch of the volatiles boiled off. Sap itself is way way too soft and sticky.

amuckart I made a 2 lb. batch of Code from your instructions. Came out perfect. Great instructions. It should last me a good couple years. Love the smell.

I got my Rosin from US rodeo supply and my beeswax from ebeehoney.com

Edited May 22, 2012 by triage1998

[J Hayes]

Can this sticky wax be purchased pre made anywhere? Time to make it may be hard to come by for me, I guess I'd rather spend the time stitching.

Or should I just suck it up and make it? Jastown.com has pitch $16 per pound and beeswax at $10 per pound.

Jeremy

[RandyScott]

On the advice of 'nthe10ring' a couple years ago, I purchased 'bowstring wax'. Still using it. Here is a link: http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=4192

I make a few sheaths from time to time; the wax is 'sticky', smells great, and seems to do the jiob for me. Best yet... the cost is reasonable.

[J Hayes]

On the advice of 'nthe10ring' a couple years ago, I purchased 'bowstring wax'. Still using it. Here is a link: http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=4192

I make a few sheaths from time to time; the wax is 'sticky', smells great, and seems to do the jiob for me. Best yet... the cost is reasonable.

Ah, that looks perfect! I will order some tomorrow. Thank you. I may still try making

some but for now this is the ticket.

Jeremy

[ChuckBurrows]

A note about melting and mixing waxes: be very careful when doing this. Most waxes are flammable. When melting waxes there can be significant vapors emitted into the air, and a combustion source (like the heat source used for the melting) can ignite those vapors. If done in an enclosed space the result might be an explosion.

I use a mixture of 50% beeswax and 50% paraffin for finishing and burnishing edges. I have this made up for me by a candle maker who has a wax melting machine.

Another method is to use a pot of boiling water, place the waxes to be blended into heavy duty freezer bags, then immerse the bags into the water until the waxes have melted and blended, then pour off the mixture into molds. I've done this outdoors on a camp stove, avoiding any possibility of vapor build up in an enclosed space.

Pine pitch is also quite flammable, and the vapors and residues are extremely irritating to the lungs, nasal passages, and mucuous membranes (ask any old time roofer who has done hot roofing with pitch! Nasty stuff.). If I were attempting to work with pitch I would make very sure there was good ventilation, and avoid any contact with the stuff.

or you can just use an old slow cooker aka crock pot. no external heat source to ignite the fumes and yes one should always do it with good ventilation and also keep it covered and don't get it too hot - just hot enough to melt is enough - melt the wax first and add the pitch/rosin that limits the fumes......

as for whether you can use fir instead of pine yep or spruce as well...

Edited May 23, 2012 by ChuckBurrows

[UberSquid]

Just in case anyone were to decide and try to use my suggestion of using a toilet ring for waxing thread or as a component for sticky wax... I went to Lowes today and was looking at the rings they had there. It seems that the rings I found weren't bees wax at all! Some research revealed that they are actually a distilled petroleum product that I'm guessing probably wouldn't do leather a whole lot of good. I don't remember where I got the one that I have that says it's 100% bees wax but I wasn't able to find another one so ebay has become my source of choice for more wax.

My apologies if I led anyone down the wrong path!

[electrathon]

Just in case anyone were to decide and try to use my suggestion of using a toilet ring for waxing thread or as a component for sticky wax... I went to Lowes today and was looking at the rings they had there. It seems that the rings I found weren't bees wax at all! Some research revealed that they are actually a distilled petroleum product that I'm guessing probably wouldn't do leather a whole lot of good. I don't remember where I got the one that I have that says it's 100% bees wax but I wasn't able to find another one so ebay has become my source of choice for more wax.

My apologies if I led anyone down the wrong path!

In the old days bowl wax was commonly bees wax. Not sure when this changed. You were not wrong, just dated )

[Ole South]

(Bump old post)
Looks like they changed to Petrolatum back in the 70s or 80s. I picked up a ring at Homer's yesterday and the tack, smell and texture implied little or no bees wax present. MSDS's that I found gave no formulations or ingredients, but I did find this:

"Petrolatum
• Wax rings are made from a combination of petrolatum and proprietary ingredients that vary among manufacturers. The wax rings made by Hercules Chemical in New Jersey are typical of the way that the manufacturing process works. The petrolatum is shipped into the factory and stored in liquid form at 170 degrees Fahrenheit until it is needed. The petrolatum is then mixed with other chemicals that keep it solidified at room temperature and then poured into aluminum molds coated with a soap compound.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_12201913_wax-toilet-bowl-rings-made.html "

There may be some old/new stock still out there with Bees wax in them but not the new rings. This is not to say you shouldn't use the stuff... just letting us know what we're playing with.