Cast Iron Vs Cast Aluminum

[mlapaglia]

Update:

I received the machine from the owner in Oregon. It arrived in the original wooden packing crate along with some accessories. Now to spend some time checking it over and familiarizing myself with it's function/operation.

Luckily, I was able to download an owners manual from the Tippmann site which will help a lot - but more useful was the web site's instructional video which showed thread tension setup and some other handy tips.

The only thing I noticed initially was how the stitching handle is attached to the shaft. It's only held on there by one 3/8 threaded allen head bolt. Doesn't seem heavy duty enough to handle the torque when operating that handle... I went ahead and installed a longer bolt which threads into the gear shaft just a bit further. More to come as I delve into this further.

One of our members, I believe it was Lobo, but I could be wrong, posted recommended maintenance on the Boss and one of the steps was to change that bolt once a month. He used it constantly. One of his months is probably a years worth or work.

Be careful making changes. Sometimes the piece is made to break so something more important does not. This is true of the rack gear that is just below the main gear on the handle. Dont change that to something stronger. In case of a really bad jam its designed to break to save the rest of the machine.

I found the post. The main post is below. You can read the whole thead here.

Nice looking work. The Tippman Boss is a decent little machine, especially for low-volume production or occasional use, but it can be finicky and frustrating at times. Some tips that might help are:

1. The Boss requires constant attention to timing and thread tensioning. Checking these and fine-tuning on scrap leather similar to what you will be using on each project before starting each project will save you some disappointments.

2. The cast aluminum operating handle attaches to the upper helical drive gear with a cap screw. That screw absorbs most of the stress at the top and bottom of each stroke, and can become fatigued over time and break, usually leaving the threaded portion of the screw embedded in the zinc drive gear. Tightness of that screw can be an issue, and I recommend checking it before each use to avoid a loose screw that adds additional stress in use. Avoid overtightening that screw. I also recommend changing out that screw about once every 30 days (about 125 to 150 uses in my shop, yours may vary) to avoid breakage due to metal fatigue. Keeping a supply of Schedule 8 cap screws, 1/4 X 20 X 1.5" on hand is cheap enough to do, and each one that saves you two hours of work to disassemble the top-end of the machine, remove the drive gear, and remove the broken screw, reassemble, re-time, etc, will be worth far more than it costs.

3. The helical drive gear is a cast zinc part. The screw hole to which the operating handle attaches is very close to one edge, and the part can break at that point due to repeated stress (especially when operated with the cap screw loose, and they do tend to loosen with use). Keeping a couple of spare drive gears on hand will allow you to make repairs right away rather than waiting for replacement parts from Tippman.

4. The drive rack (operated off the top helical drive gear to run the bottom shaft to the bobbin shuttle) is also made of cast zinc and can break due to repeated stress. Keeping at least one set (two pieces) on hand will allow immediate repairs rather than waiting for replacement parts. Changing these out takes only 15 to 30 minutes, but re-timing is then necessary as these parts control the finer timing control.

5. Keep the Tippman Industries phone number handy. A quick call will put you in touch with one of their tech people who will walk you through every maintenance and repair issue. Nice folks.

6. If you don't have the Tippman video you may want to order it from them, or watch it on their website. The advanced portion is very helpful in understanding machine operation, repair issues, timing, and thread tensioning issues, which you will be dealing with regularly.

I keep my Boss on hand primarily as a back-up for the Cobra Class 4 that I added to the shop in 2010. You will find it to be a pleasure to use much of the time (especially when compared to hand-stitching), but there will be regular issues with adjustment (timing, thread tensioning) and regular repairs will be necessary (and routine) events. The most significant weaknesses are in the cast zinc used in key operating parts and the otherwise totally unsupported attachment of the operating handle via steel cap screw to a cast zinc drive gear.

I hope this helps you.

Edited June 19, 2012 by mlapaglia

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Put a 441 clone on a treadle. Great control, both hands free and a better machine all 'round.

Simple technology is the best.

[Retired LE]

Update:

Just got back from a trip so haven't had time to post an update.

Anyway, I received the machine as promised and it didn't take much to get it into operating condition; just a bit of grease on the working parts, some fine tuning on the thread tension, and a longer bolt to attach the stitching handle to the gear shaft.

I attached it to my work bench with a couple of clamps and off I went.

Included is my first holster – made for my AMT 45 Backup. Its not fancy, but it serves the purpose much better than the cloth inside-the-pant holster that I had.

Thanks again to all for taking the time to read and respond.

Happy leathering. (probly not a word but what the heck)

Mike

Edited June 22, 2012 by Retired LE

[mlapaglia]

Is that for left hand use?

Looks good. Nice work for a first.

[Retired LE]

Is that for left hand use?

Looks good. Nice work for a first.

Its for right hand wear with the gun canted forward. I may trim a bit more leather off of the front part of the thumb strap though to avoid that flap holster look.....