My Version Of The Pocket Holster

[OutEast]

My version of the pocket holster. W&C 8/9 oz, unfinished, sewn with Cobra Class 4, 277 top and bottom. Revolver is a S&W 442.

Thanks for looking!

Mike

[renegadelizard]

Looks good Mike, the only question I have is why do the molding on a pocket holster?..other than maybe asthetics?...

My version of the pocket holster. W&C 8/9 oz, unfinished, sewn with Cobra Class 4, 277 top and bottom. Revolver is a S&W 442.

Thanks for looking!

Mike

[OutEast]

Looks good Mike, the only question I have is why do the molding on a pocket holster?..other than maybe asthetics?...

I mold it on the inner side that lays against the body to keep it from shifting and ensure that it is oriented in the same position each time I draw it.

Thanks for the interest!

Mike

[renegadelizard]

If you get a chance, next time, or better yet, with a piece of scrap leather, do one without boning it, only lightly, very lightly mold it...maining just flair the throat...and put in a stitch line along the underside of the gun...it should give you the same orientation every time and spread out the wieght a little more evenly...remember, more surface area in contact with your body usually means better weight distrobution and more comfort...

I mold it on the inner side that lays against the body to keep it from shifting and ensure that it is oriented in the same position each time I draw it.

Thanks for the interest!

Mike

[OutEast]

If you get a chance, next time, or better yet, with a piece of scrap leather, do one without boning it, only lightly, very lightly mold it...maining just flair the throat...and put in a stitch line along the underside of the gun...it should give you the same orientation every time and spread out the wieght a little more evenly...remember, more surface area in contact with your body usually means better weight distrobution and more comfort...

This method has worked extremely well for me and my customers over the years, but what the hell, I'll give it a try sometime and see how she works. Best thing about about pocket holster experiments are the small amount of leather sacrificed.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Mike

[renegadelizard]

Mike buddy, im no expert, if what you are doing works, well, it works...im just spitballing here, maybe save you a little time...i make a few revolver holsters and i know they arent really all that easy to mold...actually, i think they are pretty painful, but they do look nice when molded...maybe thats why you are sucessful, taking that extra time to set your holsters off...like i said, im just spitballing some different ideas...

This method has worked extremely well for me and my customers over the years, but what the hell, I'll give it a try sometime and see how she works. Best thing about about pocket holster experiments are the small amount of leather sacrificed.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Mike

[OutEast]

Mike buddy, im no expert, if what you are doing works, well, it works...im just spitballing here, maybe save you a little time...i make a few revolver holsters and i know they arent really all that easy to mold...actually, i think they are pretty painful, but they do look nice when molded...maybe thats why you are sucessful, taking that extra time to set your holsters off...like i said, im just spitballing some different ideas...

I hear you brother, everyone has their own way of doing things. The suggestions you offered make sense. I'm a "if it 'aint broke don't fix it" kinda guy but occasionally other ideas are able to be catapulted over my wall of pride. I will post a pic of an unmolded revo pocket holster when I get a chance to make one!

Thanks again.

Mike

[malabar]

One thing that puzzles me is, why do so many folks leave the muzzle-end of their pocket holsters open? One of the primary reasons for using a pocket holster is to protect the gun from pocket junk (also proper presentation, protecting the trigger guard, and disguising the gun's profile).

That's an invitation to get crud in your muzzle.