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OK Sam, I cut my pattern out, dye it (if I'm going to), and since I use two layers of 4/5oz leather stuck together on their flesh sides I sand and burnish the toe, and the mouth (including the belt loop of the thing. I then groove for stitching those areas, mark the stitch holes and go to stitching. I stitch partially around the toe and then I stitch partially around the belt loop, then stitch it down in place. I wet the thing down, make the fold and allow to dry. Glue in the welt (if needed) glue those sides together, sand smooth, gouge my stitch line and go to stitching, matching in with the stitched toe. Finish sand the edge and burnish. Wet mold. Apply finish.

On yours, you just need to sand and burnish the mouth and toe areas, and around the belt loop, and since you are there now -- dye the thing. When good and dry, buff it well with a semi coarse cloth (soft denim works well) stitch the belt loop down, make the fold and glue it up, sand the edge, gouge your stitch line, and go to stitching. When done, wet again, allow to dry out a bit (case it) and do your molding, then burnish the edge. When dry, apply your finish. Mike

OK Mike,

Forgive me, I'm a little confused. Thr areas which you suggest I sand and burnish, are you referring to the inside/skin side or the exterior? I suspect you're referring to the interior in order to improveassembly and the adherence of the glue.

Regarding buffing, once I find such a cloth, (by the way, how about using a piece of burlap?)

Once I stich the belt loop, make the fold and stich it, what's the purpose of sanding. What type of paper do you recommend?

When casing, prior to molding,and since I have been unable to locate an aluminum oe blue gun or the correct nake or model, I know that means I'll need to use my own pistol, which I plan to wrap in seran wrap prior. I seen suggestions to place your project inside a plastic bag, prior to molding to avoid unwanted wrinkles/scratches, too. In the past I'm used a rubberized toothbrush for molding, some suggest the back of a spoon, but I find it bends too easy. Any thoughts about using Tandy's adjustable creaser (8072-00) for this task?

You mention burnishing an edge after molding, which one are you talking about? What sort of final finishes do you suggest?

Bob

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How long should the pistol stay in once I

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Posted (edited)

Sorry Bob, I guess that I wasn't specific enough, I'm speaking of sanding the EDGES of the mouth and toe, and along the edges of the belt loop.areas, then burnishing those areas -- because after folding and stitching down, they will be difficult to get to for burnishing a nice finished edge. After stitching down the loop, sand the cut edges of the mouth and toe of the thing with about 220 grit paper, and then burnish Almost any fairly heavy cloth will do for buffing out fresh, dry, dye. An old washcloth, soft burlap, old T-shirts etc. I just like to use denim from old, worn out jeans. I place the gun used for molding in a plastic freezer bag, stuff the gun down as far as it will go into the damp (NOT WET) holster and mold by use of my hands and fingers only. What you are speaking of is 'boning' a holster -- after molding, and any solid SMOOTH object will work. Many use a polished antler tip, the smooth end of a 'Sharpie' pen, a toothbrush HANDLE, etc. It's kind of like whatever suits your fancy and what is at hand. I don't think I'd use the creaser. I personally do not bone my holsters because my construction method precludes a good 'boned' effect. Lastly, sand and burnish the stitched edge of the holster after molding, because the molding process can easily reshape that stitched edge. Hope this helps a bit. Mike

P.S. Leave the gun in the damp holster for long enough to firm up the leather well, then EASE the gun out and allow the thing to dry, undisturbed, thoroughly. Since I live in a desert area where the humidity is well below 20% generally, I leave the gun in the holster and in the sun for as little as 1/2 hour. Then remove the gun and allow to dry thoroughly. You may have to leave the holster and gun out in the sun for as much as an hour, depending on temp and humidity. After removal of the gun, allow it to dry at least overnight.

Edited by katsass

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