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CustomDoug

Glue Containers With The Brush Covers

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I keep thinking about getting one of these glue containers that the European artisans always have near by. They seem like a good idea because they apparently protect the brush with it's cap/lid covering. Is there a good place to get them in the States? Campbell-Randall show them but are out of all three sizes.

Edited by CustomDoug

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We use a glue pot like you mentioned when we are applying glue to a big area.Check Weaver or Beilers..If you would like something that is not near as messy get a plastic squeeze bottle with a point on top..Like what they use to keep on the table of a restaurant..Good Luck..

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Personally, I use screw top jars, like pickle, and B&M beans, with welding brushes from the hardware store. I punch a hole in the lid a tad smaller than the brush handle, then stick the brush in it. It stays wedged there, with the bristles in the glue. I buy a gallon of the glue, pour it into the jars as needed. Keeps everything fresh, and handy.

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Springfield Leather carries a couple glue pots like that. Basic plastic jars with the brush cap, and a more expencive teflon coated jar. If you search for "container" at their site, you will find them. Though I would seccond the squeeze bottle suggestion. They are easier to control when you just want to glue down an edge.

Edited by Glendon

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i thought of the squeeze bottle idea, but the one i have (for insance) doesn't seal very tight around the neck. i can see a wad of cured glue inside of it if i use it.

i really like the screw top glass jar idea.

what's been happening to me is when i use the weldwood container, it never really seals tightly because of the drying glue around the lid. so, it cures inside of the can as i use it and work it down to the bottom. by the time i have an inch left, it's almost hard. so, i have been pouring about an inch at a time into the old can and using it out of there so i don't waste so much.

looks like a small glass container will work nicely....still gotta think about the squeee bottle, though.

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I have been using Master cements for a long while. I have also used Barge and a few other formulations. The solvents used in these products have small molecules (relative to other hydrocarbons) and high vapor pressures, which means simply that they evaporate quickly, which is what you want. These solvents will escape from almost any container, even the ones they are shipped in. It's their job and they are good at it. This is why a solvent or "thinner" is sold separately for most commercial glue products. This solvent is usually particular to a particular glue. Master All-Purpose thinner ONLY works on Master All-Purpose Cement. There is a separate thinner for their rubber cement. I have the Teflon glue pots and the bottles that Springfield sells. I also have small narrow tip squeeze bottles that I get from Art suppliers. These are almost invaluable in some constructions where any brush is just too big. So at the end of the week, put some thinner in the bottle and shake it up. You can't get the glue too thin, or you can but it doesn't matter as you can always apply a second or third coat till it dries shiny.

Art

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I have been using Master cements for a long while. I have also used Barge and a few other formulations. The solvents used in these products have small molecules (relative to other hydrocarbons) and high vapor pressures, which means simply that they evaporate quickly, which is what you want. These solvents will escape from almost any container, even the ones they are shipped in. It's their job and they are good at it. This is why a solvent or "thinner" is sold separately for most commercial glue products. This solvent is usually particular to a particular glue. Master All-Purpose thinner ONLY works on Master All-Purpose Cement. There is a separate thinner for their rubber cement. I have the Teflon glue pots and the bottles that Springfield sells. I also have small narrow tip squeeze bottles that I get from Art suppliers. These are almost invaluable in some constructions where any brush is just too big. So at the end of the week, but some thinner in the bottle and shake it up. You can't get the glue too thin, or you can but it doesn't matter as you can always apply a second or third coat till it dries shiny.

Art

Outstanding thank you Art!!!!!!!!!!!!

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... Though I would seccond the squeeze bottle suggestion. They are easier to control when you just want to glue down an edge.

You guys using the squeeze bottles, do you use a brush at all when using them and if so, what do you do with the brushes to keep them from being trash right away?

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I know exactly what you're referring to Doug. Every European luxury goods craftsman has at least one of those on their bench. I've seen them with red, green, (and the most common) blue lids. They are produced by Verona-Italy and they are "made in Italy." Yes, something plastic that is not "Made in China!!!"

Anyways, I purchased mine from Ohio Travel Bag. They are $18.75 for the small cement pot and $26.50 for the large ones. I have the large one which could be seen in the Alfred Dunhill video, which I'm sure you've watched a billion times like myself hahahah!

FYI, there is a minimum purchase order of $30 required, so I'd get the large pot and some extra brushes.

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If you guys want the best glue pot get one of these. They only expose a small portion of the glue so they don't evaporate nearly as fast as others. If the glue gets a little thick turn it on its back for a few seconds. When they are not being use they should be stored on their back as well. I've tried the Teflon pots, the jar with the brush in the lids and these work far better especially with today's quick drying cements. They are also much cheaper than those Teflon pots. I no longer have to thin my cements using these.

23017553-BC3B-4213-AFDF-48EABF0D2BB9-37044-0000214459E07433.jpg

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I have these glue pots and I use the for pva (white glue) cements and they work great. I used the Teflon one for contact cement and I don't like them. The don't seal we'll enough for the glue to not dry out. Does contact cement work in these plastic pots? I'm worried that the dried cement around the lip would glue the lid shut.

Andrew

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If you're talking about the ones I use the glue doesn't glue them shut. The glue peels right off of them. I've used them with Masters all purpose, Masters Max Bond, and Renia Colle de Cologne and never had an issue. They seal very well. It is recommended to peel any excess cement off the rim and lid but that is more for a better seal than anything else.

The Teflon pots were the worst and most expensive I've ever used. They are ok with the older more basic cements like Masters all purpose but the more modern glues dry up so fast with even a little bit of air that the glue becomes dried up in no time and I don't like to keep thinning the cements down.

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Where do You get those glue pots at never seen them before!

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Those pots and the teflon pots can be purchased from Ohio Travel Bag, pg 220 of their catalog

http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/FlipBook/P212_BOOK_1.indb/index.html#/220/

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I echo what Billymac says. I use the same one and I use it for fast contact cement. I cannot do without it.. Before I spent a fortune in glue and twice as much in thinner. It is constructed in a smart way, when you do not use it you lay it on the side like on Billymacks pic and the glues vapors keep the brush soft. It also makes the glue thinner again, I wonder how I did manage without it before. It is a must and no other compares to it.

Tor

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So dried contact cement around the lid won't glue the lid shut? I thought that that was the reason for the Teflon pots since glue won't stick to the lids. I just might have to try this...

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I get them from Frankford leather. You may need an account to order from them. If you need one and can't find one I can order one and ship it to you.

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Oh and those Teflon glue pots are a big waste of money, if anyone disagrees I have two Ill sell. Its good that glue doesn't stick to them because your glue will turn into a brick over a long weekend. They might be ok for the older type cements but the modern cements evaporate way faster.

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I bought a new one two days ago to use for white glue. It is not necessary to use this type of container for white glue, but I think it is more practical. It has no maker name on the box or the instruction, its for sale in a couple of places here in Oslo. It looks (or feels) like it is made in Italy, because they normally do not brand their stuff that often (and Italian is the first language in the instruction). It warrants the sealing for five years. I often buy my glue in one liter boxes, even when this are meant as temporary containers they keep the glue better than the original box do with ten pairs of rubber gloves over the lid. I have had a container half full of 30 seconds fast contact cement untouched for several month and the glue is still as new. A small one on 0,4 liter will do just fine if you buy one liter boxes of glue or less. The container works best when it contains more glue than air of course.

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I'm familiar with Barge but considering trying Master. Is there much difference between Master and Barge? Are there other cements that one might suggest?

Barge and Nasters All purpose are definitely a different consistency but they work pretty similarly. The newer barge is Tolulene free so its a little better for you than the All purpose Masters but I prefer the All purpose as its a little easier to work with I think.

I use Renia Colle de Cologne. Its a German Cement and is very high quality and it has no Tolulene and no MEK so its safer than some others. Its a very strong cement as well.

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The glue containers are also available from Campbell-Randall here:

http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/search&filter_name=glue%20container

4 sizes available from 13oz up to 100 oz at prices from 14.50-30.50

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