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Posted

Hi Tor,

many thanks for the pics.

Could I be a pain & ask if you could get some pics of your friends machine needle area.

That is the same machine as mine but I think the feed plate & feed dog area is completely different - mine has a rectangular flat plate (the chequered one in my pic) & your friends machine seems to have a curved plate to it.

Sorry to be a pain, you have been a great help so far & it is greatly appreciated.

Dave

The Gamekeepers Shed

There's many a badge that's unco braw

Wi' ribbon, tape and lace on;

Let kings and princes wear them a'

Gie me the Master's Apron.

Posted

Hi Dave, I am sorry but she lives in a other part of the country. In addition she has just lost her mother, so I will not bother her with that right now. A flat plate works much better than a curved plate for leather work. You can angle the side a bit, round it of with the grinder. Or use a thicker plate to get some angles at the sides. I have seen the plate and it look exactly like this Pfaff plate at http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ 91-158 206-04 needle plate

91-059 229-04 feed dog.

Here you see a leather plate for my old Adler class 5-27, it a very good plate because it is flat. The rounded or angled sides is to get it to fit on a cylinder arm bed (or keep materials from been hooked by the ends) Believe me, a flat plate will work best. Then the foot pressure is evenly distributed over the work and it less likely you will have any skipped stitches too. keep it high polished and It will sew leather like a champ

Tor

post-10237-0-70790200-1359807257_thumb.j

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Hi Tor,

Thanks for the info & the photos.

It looks like I have a plate for a right hand binder & someone has modified a feed dog to suit (isn't it great when you pick up someone else's modifications).

Time to look through the garage, I'm sure I have some 3mm plate in there, will have to grind off the 'modification' to the feed dog.

I really appreciate your assistance with this Tor, you have been a great help.

Hopefully this info will be useful to someone else too.

Many thanks

Dave

The Gamekeepers Shed

There's many a badge that's unco braw

Wi' ribbon, tape and lace on;

Let kings and princes wear them a'

Gie me the Master's Apron.

Posted

Hi Tor,

Thanks for the info & the photos.

It looks like I have a plate for a right hand binder & someone has modified a feed dog to suit (isn't it great when you pick up someone else's modifications).

Time to look through the garage, I'm sure I have some 3mm plate in there, will have to grind off the 'modification' to the feed dog.

I really appreciate your assistance with this Tor, you have been a great help.

Hopefully this info will be useful to someone else too.

Many thanks

Dave

Take off the feed dog, you do not need a feed dog that only marks up the leather and do not feed.

Its a binding feed, the feed dog is just there to drive the synchronized binder. The plate should have a narrow slot for the needle. Measure the longest stitch length forward and reverse, then give the needle some room to bend, thats all.

Good luck

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Thanks for the info Tor,

I've just checked my plate & it's 5mm thick (hope I've got something in the garage!).

The Gamekeepers Shed

There's many a badge that's unco braw

Wi' ribbon, tape and lace on;

Let kings and princes wear them a'

Gie me the Master's Apron.

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