Machine Stitching With Linen Thread

[JAM]

I've been playing with linen thread in my Cobra 4 and having good luck, but could use some advice/tips.

I'm running 6-cord S-twist thread through a size 230/26 LR needle, and using 277 poly in the bobbin for the sake of experimentation (I haven't gotten around to trying linen in the bobbin yet).

I've tried it both unwaxed and waxed (I made a terrific thread wax from a 1:3 mix of resin:beeswax), and it works both ways, although the waxed thread makes the tension a lot tighter and makes the machine work harder (and I can only do finite lengths of thread I've waxed by hand - is there a better way to wax linen thread as it runs from the spool to the needle?) I suspect that waxed thread will have more longevity than unwaxed.

I've got the tension worked out and like the stitches, although they untwist a tiny bit in the stitching (and don't look tightly twisted in the finished stitches), and the thread shreds a little as it's pulled up through the leather after catching the bobbin thread. What is causing this, and how do I correct it?

I love the idea of using linen in my saddles, in the skirts, etc., as well as the horn/cantle. Does anyone have any advice on how to make it work better?

Thanks,

Julia

PS Is S-twist the same as left twist? How can I tell whether it's left or right twist?

[JAM]

Never mind - got the answers I needed from Campbell-Randall, my linen thread supplier.

[mlapaglia]

Well share them with us, please .

[JAM]

Sure - I asked Lisa:

"In addition to using linen for all my handstitching now (and I have the whole beeswax/resin coad trick nailed) I want to use it in my Cobra 4. I understand that should be no problem - but is there anything I should do to treat the thread before machine stitching with it? Is there a wax system, or is it enough to run it through a silicone lube pot? (or should I even do that?) Or should I just machine stitch it dry?"

She responded:

"If you decide to sew linen on your Cobra, you will need a wax pot. We have a liquified wax called Campbell's Thread Lube that we sell in quarts and gallons. The Campbell has been sewing linen long before synthetic threads were invented, so it is a good option for you. The quart runs $8.50 and the gallon runs $22.50."

This was a big help to me - I hope it helps you, too

[awharness]

I'd love to see a picture of how it lays down the stitch with linen, are you using linen in the bobbin as well??

[JAM]

Well, here are pictures (not very sharp ones, sorry) and an important UPDATE on what I learned from the good folks at Campbell-Randall.

These lines of stitching were 5-c left twist linen, both top and bobbin thread lubed with silicone (which does nothing to protect the linen from the elements like wax does).

I got a call from a wonderful gentleman at C-R (I'm sorry but I cannot remember his name). He said he understood I had questions, and then we had a long conversation about the history of thread fibers and stitching machines, and essentially my Cobra 4 is not built for linen (no machine in that class is built for linen) and I'll make a monster if I try.

Linen is no good unless it's waxed, and wax of any kind is hard on my machine. However, they carry an off-white bonded poly called "Deer" that closely resembles the color of natural linen, so I can use that on my saddles anyplace that I need/want to do machine stitching and it will look like it's the same thread as the hand-stitched waxed linen horn and cantle. So that's the plan now for any saddle that's not priced for complete hand-stitching.

Don't know if this helps anyone else, but it answered my questions quite well.

Julia