Horsehide Avenger And Matching Mag Pouches

[Big O]

Apologies for the crappy cell phone pic.

[renegadelizard]

i bet that horsehide was a bear to tool...i took one look at particles' tooling and knew i could never come close, so now my tools are distractions for my uber creative daughter...one day im gonna hire her to tool anything i need...is this your first horsehide?...i usually use it like you did, as reinforcement pieces, but the other day i did a full panel on the back and dyed it and was amazed at how it took the dye...sort of mottled effect...i think it would look great on your holster...stitch lines look good, but after seeing shooter mcgavins double stitch lines, I really think its the way to go...it adds a whole new depth to the look...now, for the serious part...what on earth are you using for a backdrop?...is that pink denim?...lol...

[Big O]

Not even close to the first. But, yes, it's tricky to stamp and mold. I really haven't done any other "tooling".

Probably doesn't help that the black is from those cheap Springfield drum-dyed strips.

The backdrop is just the seat of an office chair.

[Chef niloc]

I find horsehide stamps quite nicely and relatively easily, but sucks to carve and tool? I think it's the best and easiest leather to wet mold. I've only been working with lethere for a few years so I am a complete amateur. So I don't consider myself skilled in any aspect of the trade, but I mostly work with horsehide so I have kind of figured out a few tricks.

Again I'm no pro but from what I've noticed is the most important part of wet molding is in the proper casing of the leather? Horsehide cases differently than cowhide and it is a bit more tricky and finicky to case as well. I think this is due to the difference in cell structure of the two letters, horsehide has a more closed cell while cowhide is more open. When I wet mold horsehide I literally soak the leather in pretty warm water (about 85 to 90°) with just a drop of baby shampoo. I do this in a somewhat of a insulated and or covered container to try and keep the temperature kind of consistent. I don't really time it but I probably leave the piece of leather in the water for about 30-45 minutes? At this point the horsehide molds works like play dough.

For stamping I think I just use the traditional casing method? I soak the leather in a room temperature casing solution. The kind of solution I use is the kind you always read about on these boards, Distilled water, shampoo, Listerine, ext. I soke it till the bubbles stop. Then I guess I kind of use my own method of slicking the leather. Rather than using a slicker or piece of glass on a hard surface, I use one of those food saver vacuum packing machines. I started doing this at first because I was having a hard time slicking the horsehide, At the time I didn't have the proper tools and I really didn't know how to use a slicker either. But I find the vacuum packing machine works great, not only does it compress the leather evenly it keeps mold from forming. I leave it sealed for at least 12 hours but I've left it before four days. Note the reason I have left it for days before is only do to not haveing the time to work with it. I then take it out of the bag and wait for the color to even out and still feel cool but not wet to the touch. I then cover the backside with clear packing tape to keep the leathers shape when stamping. I think the use of a proper/ traditional slicking technique does all of this am one step, but I don't really know? I have a bad habit of not taking pictures but here's one. Try not to judge the stamping itself as it's only my second try with a try weave stamp, and I find the try weave to be kind of hard to do.

Here are two pictures of wet molding I've done. The only picture showing the creasing from wet molding Is of one of the first sheaths I've made, So try not to judge too harshly. The second picture I think was a more successful sheath but the style of sheath doesn't have the creasing look I know where talking about.

[Big O]

I soak mine for about 2 minutes for molding. I've found that to be hit or miss.

I'll have to try going longer and see how that works out.

For stamping, I've found that when it's cased just right, the stamping comes out VERY crisp. The trick seems to be GETTING it to the right level. I still haven't mastered that.