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elf3

Help Please! Sealing An Autograph...

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So I'll start off saying I know nothing about leather... I need help!

I got the meet my FAVORITE country artist, Brantley Gilbert. He signed the inside of my cowboy boot! Now...I need to seal it because they are brand new and $120 bucks is a lot for a poor girl like me and I can't just set them on a shelf! The leather is died pink. It is in a spot that doesn't rub too much.

I have tried to do some research online for sealing techniques and after reading many articles I have come to one conclusion. I'm lost. The signature is in Sharpie. The boots are Ariat if that matters. I need a finish that can withstand the heat, stretching, and bending a boot goes through.

I've heard nail polish, leather sheen, acrylic resolene.... Anyone have some input? Any help is MUCH appreciated!! THANK YOU! :)

-Erica

(attached is a pic of the boot and Brantley, my friend and myself... I'm on the left!)

post-38929-0-13511000-1360113202_thumb.j

post-38929-0-25094000-1360113279_thumb.p

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I was thinking the Leather Sheen because it can come in an aerosal that way I don't have to worry about touching the signature and smearing it. It sounds like it leaves a nice waxy, waterproof finish. I just worry about cracking and what I would do if I had to re-seal it.

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Definitely a spray. Get a piece of scrap leather write on it with a sharpie and then spray. I would think clear lac or something like that but try it before using it on your boot.

David

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Clearlac is pretty hard to get even (and expensive for a one time application). Saddle-lac comes in a spray bottle and is fairly inexpensive. I would vote Resolene myself, since I know how well it covers sharpie and it's flexible and water resistant (NOTHING is water "proof"). If applied in thinned down light coats (50/50 with water) it won't go on heavy enough to crack and will still be flexible. If you or a friend have an airbrush, you can apply it that way. You'll definitely want to spray whatever you get so that you don't rub off the sharpie at all. Also, test whatever you do on a non-visible part of the boot just to make sure it doesn't have an adverse reaction to the finish that's already on them.

I just looked up the Leather Sheen. It looks like it's more of a conditioner/temporary finish. It will most likely wear off quite easily and need to be reapplied - at which time you're risking losing the signature. Anything with the word "wax" in it's name or description is most likely going to fall into this category.

Edited by Cyberthrasher

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Thanks for your input guys! I know the resolene needs to be diluted, and I don't have access to a sprayer, so I guess I would lean more towards the Saddle-Lac because I'm not sure how I would apply the resolene without a sprayer. If the Saddle-Lac seems like a good option for me I think I will go for that. If it were to wear down, can it just be sprayed over again? I wish I knew SOMETHING about leather! The signature is on the inside of the boot, if I spray the inside, it won't get through to the outside, finished leather will it? I don't think I'm as worried about the coloring/finish as long as it just keeps the Sharpie there.

Sorry these are dumb questions, and sorry if you have been asked them before!

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You can mix resolene 50/50 with water and use a trigger spray bottle that can be adjusted to a mist. I have a leather bracer signed by a couple of bands. I used the resolene and it works great.

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When you say trigger spray do you mean something like a windex bottle sprayer?

I hadn't thought of that, but it could work. I would probably actually lean toward a dollar store spray bottle that has an adjustable spray on it instead of the windex style that only has a choice between off/mist/stream with the possibility of adding chemicals. Either one of these (saddle-lac or resolene) would be able to be reapplied. If you go the resolene route in a spray bottle, I would mask off as much as the boot as possible so you can stand back and get a good mist. That will make sure you don't blast a huge amount on at once. I may try it when I get home tonight if I get a chance.

The other option is a preval sprayer, available at most craft stores (accept my local Joanne's!!).

http://www.dickblick.com/items/25003-0200/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=google&wmcid=items&wmckw=25003-0200&gclid=CPLZl4PTpLUCFWlxQgod0kEAPA

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Yes, like a windex bottle. Another option is to use a sponge and just blot the resolene on the autograph.

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Awesome! I actually have an adjustable one at home. I have read about something like the preval, I could do some calling around to see if I can find something around where I live. I think I'll go the resolene way. If you do try it out with the spray bottle, let me know!

Thank you so much for your help, I will hopefully order the resolene tonight ( was just going to go thru Tandy, they seemed the cheapest and they are in WI too so maybe they'll be cheaper shipping!) So maybe I can do it this weekend.

If I apply it 50/50 and just do a thin coat, how many coats do you put on? I don't want it too thick or it will crack, right? Then I'll probably let it dry for a month haha I'm so afraid to ruin it!

I could have had him sign something else that would be less work but what's the fun in a piece of paper? :)

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If you do try it out with the spray bottle, let me know!

If I apply it 50/50 and just do a thin coat, how many coats do you put on? I don't want it too thick or it will crack, right?

I'll definitely report back. It will just depend on if I have a spare bottle somewhere.

With the thinned Resolene, I usually apply 2 LIGHT coats about 15 minutes or so apart. You can get 3 on there, but if it's not needed than I wouldn't worry about it. Just remember to thin it and make sure it's not bubbly or streaky when it's applied (which shouldn't happen if it's sprayed). If you blot with a sponge, again, do it lightly and eliminate any bubbles. Don't over saturate the sponge with it or you will get bubbles. Resolene is pretty flexible ( I use it on all my belts and guitar straps), so it will hold up well as long as it's not too heavy.

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I can save you some money, Mop N Glo is the same as resolene. You can cut it the same. I spray resolene with an air brush most of the time. Usually two light coats about 15 minutes apart and let dry for at least 24 hours. You can buff it after that with a soft cloth, like sheeps wool or a cloth baby diaper. My bracer has seen downpours of rain and the autographs were not affected.

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One and the same (floor wax), just make sure it is plain, no perfumes or such in it. Soldiers have been using it on their boots for years, and many leather workers use it to seal their projects because it is much more cost effective.

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I don't want to get into a mop n glow debate, but keep in mind that leather has chemicals in it. The chemicals in products made for leather have been tested, where floor products are only intended for use on floors. I know lots of people use it, but I just want to point out that it's a risk that you'd have to take on your own.

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We have a couple members who use it religiously, but I don't know about sharpie. I do know that they swear by it's use as a finish. I say if it works for them, cool. Resolene and ClearLac work for me, so that's what I use :)

Without trying to sway you either way on mopnglo vs resolene, just ask yourself if you're experienced enough to want to experiment with the off-label use of a product.

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One and the same (floor wax), just make sure it is plain, no perfumes or such in it. Soldiers have been using it on their boots for years, and many leather workers use it to seal their projects because it is much more cost effective.

So I have the boot masked and went to spray and I thought I would read this thread again. I looked at the bottle I bought and way down in the corner it says "fresh citrus scent" I'm assuming I shouldn't use it :( walmart didn't carry mop n glo here and the store I found this at only had the one bottle. It is blue. Guess I should just pay the extra to get the resolene.

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well, now you have some mop-n-glo for your floors that will make it smell like you're on an island vacation ;)

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Hi Elf3

I use saddle lac and resolene all the time. I would worry about the saddle lac as the alcohol in it could affect the sharpie. Not sure if it would but I would hate to risk it. Although it is very waterproof it will crack. I find this is worse if I spray it as it is hard to get it on nice and thin.

I vote for the resolene too. I have experimented with mop-n-glo but for me it was not water proof enough. Leather sheen will wear off eventually I use that all the time as well.

If I had to go the Walmart route I would go to the craft section and buy a bottle folk art or Ceramcoat acrylic varnish. It is on those racks with all those little bottles of craft paint. I painted the lapel of a leather jacket with those paints that has lasted about 22 years or more.

I will try to do a little testing today for you if you like. I will report back latter.

Cheers, Toolingaround

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For anyone who may be interested the results of my quickie sharpie tests are:

DO NOT USE SADDLE LAC!!! It is very effective at removing sharpie espeshaly on chrome tanned smooth leather.

A little note on my fast and dirty tests. I did not allow the requisit number of hours for drying between coats. I used a damp sponge to apply the last two finishes (resolene and folk art). Two thin coats full strength not watered down except by what ever water was in the sponge. I only waited about a half hour to dry before doing a water drop test and then rubbing hard with first a paper towel then a piece of canvas. I used a piece of naked veg tan, a piece of soft red drum dyed chrome tan and a piece of surface dyed chrome tan with a distressed effect put on it commercially. All three finishes removed some of the distressed effect ( even plain water did) glad I know that about that piece of leather now.

RESOLENE: FAIL

the sharpie started to come off

PLEASE NOTE I DID NOT ALLOW HOURS OF DRYING TIME

PLAID FOLK ART ARTIST VARNISH SATIN #885: Winner!!!!

A buck at Walmart and preserved the sharpie the best. It is quite water resistant and from my experience with it in the past is quite waterproof when fully cured. The only thing I noticed was a bit of a whitish look in the texture of the leather in the very soft red leather and a light removal of the sharpie after a lot of abuse. On the firmer surface dyed chrome tan it was fine.

Obviously this was not the best testing procedures and I abused the finishes long before there curing time but at this point if I had to choose one I would pick the folk art acrylic.

http://www.plaidonline.com/folkart-finishes-artists-varnish-satin-2-oz/51/885/product.htm

Anyhow this may help some future googler. I would recommend of course following the suggested drying time of the product and testing what ever you use on an inconspicuous area before trying to seal a precious autograph.

Just my two cents,

Cheers all

Toolingaround

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Wow! Thank you for doing the testing!! I haven't sealed the boot yet, so I'll give the Folk Art Varnish from Wal-Mart. I've been searching to try to find something that won't cost me $25, so I haven't bought anything yet. I will probably buy some, then draw a dot on the other boot and seal it to see what the results are. I will let everyone know how it goes when I do it. Thank you again for all of the suggestions!

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What costs $25???

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