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Posted

Fiebings antique past vs tandy antique finish

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Posted

They both need to be sealed to prevent bleeding. You can use wax, lacquer, or acrylic finishes on either of them. Or at least I have, and not had any problems with any of them. Which one you use just depends on how water-resistant you want your piece to be, and how glossy or matted you want the finish to be.

The paste is thicker, like heavy mud, and your working time with it is generally less than with the gel, and I also find it a little finicky at cooler temperatures, or when there's too much of a breeze in the room. You can improve that (and improve the stability of the paste) by thinning it with a bit of Tan-Kote. I've gotten some very nice results from the paste/TK mixture.

The EF is a looser gel, has a slightly longer working time, and I would say easier to put on and work with than the paste. It can also be mixed with Tan-Kote to extend working time and give a slightly different (usually lighter) appearance. I like the results I get with it, too, but not quite as much as the paste.

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Posted
  On 3/28/2013 at 9:54 PM, JustKate said:

They both need to be sealed to prevent bleeding. You can use wax, lacquer, or acrylic finishes on either of them. Or at least I have, and not had any problems with any of them. Which one you use just depends on how water-resistant you want your piece to be, and how glossy or matted you want the finish to be.

The paste is thicker, like heavy mud, and your working time with it is generally less than with the gel, and I also find it a little finicky at cooler temperatures, or when there's too much of a breeze in the room. You can improve that (and improve the stability of the paste) by thinning it with a bit of Tan-Kote. I've gotten some very nice results from the paste/TK mixture.

The EF is a looser gel, has a slightly longer working time, and I would say easier to put on and work with than the paste. It can also be mixed with Tan-Kote to extend working time and give a slightly different (usually lighter) appearance. I like the results I get with it, too, but not quite as much as the paste.

Thanks KateI

I've had some problem of bleeding with antique because I've used that on a bike's seat, I'd like to use a fiebings snow proof to prevent this problem

Ivan

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Posted

It looks like a good choice to seal an antique job. If it's good for saddles (many which have antique paste applied to them), it's probably good for your bike seats. But as with everything, test on some scrap before using it on one of your bike seats.

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