Attaching Pocket Gussets To Satchel

[humperdingle]

Hi, I'm making my first 'old fashioned' style school satchel - One large compartment with gusset and a smaller compartment on front, also with gusset.

So, i've cut everything out, prepared edges, sewn billet straps/buckles onto front piece etc.

Now comes the part i haven't done yet... So do I prick out the holes on the front part and awl through to the gusset and stitch as I go, or do I mark out and awl holes in both front part and gusset, hoping they match-up???

I'm thinking they won't match-up at the bend parts.

[Jax]

If it were me Id just prick mark on the outside parts, you are right about them not lining up if you mark both.

[walletman]

Hi I would use contact glue

On the gusset on the front use tacks to hold in place tack to a board

Till glue is set

Then use a awl pricking fork to make the holes

Then sew it together

Then mark round pocket punch holes

Then glue the pocket to the front

Using croc clips to hold in place

I allway use croc clips if you dont have any well worth buying some

You will say why did i not used them before

Make holes with awl sew up

I hope i have been of some help

Bob (walletman)

[lightningad]

on the one i just finished (and the three i'm currently working on), I did not use any glue - just stitching.

I attached the gusset to the pocket front by stitching the edges back to back.

Before stitching, i marked the edge of the gusset that would be joined to the body of the bag - NOT the edge joining the pocket front. As you say - that would be backwards!

I measured the centrepoint of both the gusset and the pocket stitch line and worked out from the centre in both directions so i would be guaranteed the same overlap at each side . The only marking was done on the front of the pocket.

To ensure it was all lined up, i had traced the outline of the pocket onto the gusset with a light scribe and used this as a guide to hold the gusset against as i punched and stitched each hole with the awl. Clips just got in the way for me, and the parts too bulky to use a clam so this was all hand held whilst the stitching was completed.

Going around the bends was just a case of ensure the two edges were aligned before pushing the awl through, and only making one hole at a time and finishing the stitch before moving on.

For me, it made much more sense to attach the gusset to the pocket BEFORE attaching it to the main bag front, before fitting the bag front to its own gusset. Essentially you want to avoid stitching into an enclosed bag as your hands and needles will find it much harder to do anything, especially if you have chunky hands! The main bag gusset was the final part i attached.

What i'm thinking might work even better - although its untested until this weekend - is to mark the stitches on the pocket front panel, and before attaching the gusset, use those holes to mark the stitch positions onto main bag front with awl , then when you have attached the pocket and gusset and come to attach the gusset to the main front, the holes marked on the gusset edge should line up with the holes made from the pocket front template.

good luck.

[humperdingle]

Thanks folks... Getting on with it today.

What i'm thinking might work even better - although its untested until this weekend - is to mark the stitches on the pocket front panel, and before attaching the gusset, use those holes to mark the stitch positions onto main bag front with awl , then when you have attached the pocket and gusset and come to attach the gusset to the main front, the holes marked on the gusset edge should line up with the holes made from the pocket front template.

good luck.

Thanks - That's exactly what I did yesterday - I thought it would be easier if the marking points were mirrored exactly

Yes, i'm pretty much doing things in the order you suggest, so my organising and planning must be improving lol - Basically working from the front to rear.

God, I hate sewing gussets

[humperdingle]

First gusset line stitched, and was easier than I was anticipating! One hole punched and stitched at a time seemed to be the way to go.

Next line may well be trickier, as it's only 1 1/2" deep, even less with the curvature, so it'll be interesting if nothing else :D

Taking things slowly so I don't frustrate myself and stop actually enjoying it.

[lightningad]

the hard bit comes when attaching that gusset to the second side! Then you have it bending in three ways - the curve of the pocket plus the curves to the main pockets, etc.

It can be awkward but i found it really rewarding too.

[humperdingle]

the hard bit comes when attaching that gusset to the second side! Then you have it bending in three ways - the curve of the pocket plus the curves to the main pockets, etc.

It can be awkward but i found it really rewarding too.

Yeh I thought it would be, so i'd already pre-softened the gusset by bending the strip repeatedly to get it supple, then tacked stitched it in 6 places to hold it - Worked out well!

Halfway through the large compartment... Sore fingers