Steps Of Leatherwork And More Newb Questions

[Sleepyhouse22]

I'm just getting started in leatherwork. I wanted to get a complete list of steps to be reviewed by you guys to make sure I'm not missing something. I thought most people did pieces of work in just a few hours, but after doing more research, I figured out this is not the case! Please review my steps and times to let things process. I'd love any opinions on if there is a better product to use or a different process altogether.

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends, holes, tongue slot, etc.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to dry*

5) Remove from bag and let dry just until returning to natural color.

6) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool.

7) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass.

8) Sand edges with sandpaper with #150 (or 400?). Bevel all 4 edges.

9) Burnish with water/saddle soap 50/50 mixture.

10) Dye the edges with Fiebing's Edge Kote (or spirit dye?). Let dry (how long?)

11) Final burnish with gum tragacanth.

*Wait overnight to dry*

12) Apply Neatsfoot Oil (pure) in light layers.

*Wait overnight to dry*

13) Use Fiebing's pro oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

14) Seal with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene. Let dry (how long?)

15) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Let dry (how long?)

16) Seal with resolene again. Let dry (how long?)

17) Apply finish to the edge (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Montana Pitch Blend to entire strap.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Apply all hardware.

21) Glue leather as needed.

22) Sitch as needed.

Okay, I know that was a lot. Can you please tell me where I've read into too many people's processes and what I don't need and what I have out of order? I struggle figuring out when to edge vs tooling because of the edge product applications; I don't know if casing after edging is a bad idea... probably so. But don't you need to edge to properly get your inner tooling exactly centered?

Any assistance would be so much appreciated! Thanks!

[Harag]

I'm also new and interested in the list you have. From my findings here a my tips, though I'm no expert and still learning...

#7 - I case my leather the way you mention, by leaving it in a bag overnight. I've then tooled the following day for 3 hours not rewetting once, placed back in bag, and then tooled another 2 hours the following day again not rewetting once. I've also tested it with out doing the overnight casing and just using a sponge (like I've seen on so many videos) and I've found if I do the sponge wetting I'm rewetting it every hour or so, so I prefer the casing method, the sponge method is useful for quick small pieces though.

#14 - mix your resolene with water - 50/50, apply 2-3 coats, an hour or two apart then let it dry overnight.

I think it might be best to do all your tooling before the edging

#23 - Sell to customer?

At first like you, I thought it was all going to be quick and over in a couple of hours, looking into it more and more, it seems that it's best to leave things overnight, even if you've heard "a few hours to dry". Don't rush, you will have a better item at the end, unless it's really urgent of course, but nothing is "urgent". Do it once, do it right.

Another tip would be - Have more than one project on the go at once, I tooled some Bracers at the weekend - took 5 hours tooling (3 on one, 2hrs on the 2nd - same design as well), while the leather was drying, I dyed another project.

Hope this helps.

[Sleepyhouse22]

At first like you, I thought it was all going to be quick and over in a couple of hours, looking into it more and more, it seems that it's best to leave things overnight, even if you've heard "a few hours to dry". Don't rush, you will have a better item at the end, unless it's really urgent of course, but nothing is "urgent". Do it once, do it right.

Another tip would be - Have more than one project on the go at once, I tooled some Bracers at the weekend - took 5 hours tooling (3 on one, 2hrs on the 2nd - same design as well), while the leather was drying, I dyed another project.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips! I will fill in the gaps with what you have mentioned. Do you know how long you can leave a piece in a bag moist like that? I have read of people keeping in the fridge for a few days, but what about a week or more?

Also, do most people go through the process of slicking leather and taping the back before tooling?

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends, holes, tongue slot, etc.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to dry*

5) Remove from bag and let dry just until returning to natural color.

6) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool.

7) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass.

8) Sand edges with sandpaper with #150 (or 400?). Bevel all 4 edges.

9) Burnish with water/saddle soap 50/50 mixture.

10) Dye the edges with Fiebing's Edge Kote (or spirit dye?). Let dry (how long?)

11) Final burnish with gum tragacanth.

*Wait overnight to dry*

12) Apply Neatsfoot Oil (pure) in light layers.

*Wait overnight to dry*

13) Use Fiebing's pro oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

14) Seal with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 coats, an hour or two apart.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste.

*Wait overnight to dry*

16) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again.

*Wait overnight to dry*

17) Apply finish to the edge (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Fiebing's Aussie to entire strap. Heat with blow dryer and rub in for full coverage.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Apply all hardware.

21) Glue leather as needed.

22) Sitch as needed.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Sleepyhouse22

[Cyberthrasher]

Well, first off, you haven't said WHAT you're making. Some products may be better suited for different things.

As far as how long to leave it in the bag - I've had pieces bagged in the fridge for months with no issues. Just pull it out and get back to work as if you hadn't even put it away. I'm adding more notes below for clarity. A lot of your "Overnight" stuff can actually just be several hours. The main one you'll want to watch out for is dye (especially if you've gotten it on a little heavy) and oil. If you're antiquing, you'll want to let your final resist coat before antique cure for quite a while too. There may be a few things out of order here. BUT my main bit of advice is to not stress the details so much at this point. Don't get me wrong, you need to be detailed in your work when you're selling it. But you also need to just jump in and experiment and play. We all learned this stuff through trial and error. You have a good list to bypass some of our error, but you still have to try it out for yourself and see what works best for your methods and work process. Don't be afraid of using scraps, that's what they're for

Thanks for the tips! I will fill in the gaps with what you have mentioned. Do you know how long you can leave a piece in a bag moist like that? I have read of people keeping in the fridge for a few days, but what about a week or more?

Also, do most people go through the process of slicking leather and taping the back before tooling?

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends, holes, tongue slot, etc. Punch holes last after dying. If you do that first, your dye will seep through to the back and make a mess.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to dry*

5) Remove from bag and let dry just until returning to natural color.

6) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool. You can do this first, I do it last if I'm not stitching since it's just a border

7) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass. I find it a lot easier to cover the portions I'm not working with plastic wrap so it moves with my work.

8) Sand edges with sandpaper with #150 (or 400?). Bevel all 4 edges. If you're assembling 2 pieces, sand them first with 150 - 200 grit to even the edges (after gluing) then bevel. If you're sanding is to smooth the edge, bevel them first to get the shape and then use the sandpaper to clean it up and smooth things down if they're too rough. For this, I start with 150 on moistened edges and then go through with 400. You'll get a feel for when this is required. If you use a good edge beveler that's the right size, this step may not even be necessary. If it's not necessary, I jump straight to my edge burnisher here.

9) Burnish with water/saddle soap 50/50 mixture. Depends on your saddle soap. I use Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap and just rub it on with no water then burnish with my edge burnisher.

10) Dye the edges with Fiebing's Edge Kote (or spirit dye?). Let dry (how long?) Edge Kote is nothing more than paint that sits on top of the leather. Use Pro Oil dye and save yourself the hassle/embarrasment. Let it dry at least a few hours. I like to do all my edging before dying and then dye the edge with the rest of the project. Be sure to add a finish to your edge as well (I prefer Resolene, but use whatever you're using on the rest of the project)

11) Final burnish with gum tragacanth. Gum Trag is a crutch that simply makes it easier to lay the leather fibers down. If you practice the edging techniques listed here, you'll never need it and have perfect edges

*Wait overnight to dry*

12) Apply Neatsfoot Oil (pure) in light layers. By this point, you've already dyed and sealed your leather - no point in applying a bunch of Neatsfoot now. If you feel you need the Neatsfoot, apply a couple LIGHT coats BEFORE dying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

13) Use Fiebing's pro oil dye. Do this after edging, but before you give them a final burnish as mentioned earlier. Dye your edges at this point.

*Wait overnight to dry*

14) Seal with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 coats, an hour or two apart. Yes, be sure to get your edges now too. If antiquing, you may want to go up to 4 or 5 LIGHT coats - test it and practice to find the results you want.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste.

*Wait overnight to dry* - be sure to wipe off all excess BEFORE letting it dry. Wipe it off the high spots immediately and work quickly

16) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again. Do it lightly so you don't pull out your antique - I prefer an airbrush, but it's doable without if you use care.

*Wait overnight to dry*

17) Apply finish to the edge (bees wax with canvas cloth). - This is a good spot for this one, because the wax will stop any dye or finish from adhering to the edges. BUT, it's not a "finish" as it does not seal the edge. Think of it as more of a polish.

18) Apply Fiebing's Aussie to entire strap. Heat with blow dryer and rub in for full coverage. If you feel you need it. The Resolene has already sealed the strap. I haven't used Aussie before. I do use Montana Pitch Blend as a final conditioner that also applies a wax coating. This is a maintenance step that I also instruct my customers to do and it's done LAST before I ship it out the door. When applied over a sealing finish, it will need to be left overnight and buffed out in the morning.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Apply all hardware.

21) Glue leather as needed.

22) Sitch as needed.

[Sleepyhouse22]

Well, first off, you haven't said WHAT you're making. Some products may be better suited for different things.

As far as how long to leave it in the bag - I've had pieces bagged in the fridge for months with no issues. Just pull it out and get back to work as if you hadn't even put it away. I'm adding more notes below for clarity. A lot of your "Overnight" stuff can actually just be several hours. The main one you'll want to watch out for is dye (especially if you've gotten it on a little heavy) and oil. If you're antiquing, you'll want to let your final resist coat before antique cure for quite a while too. There may be a few things out of order here. BUT my main bit of advice is to not stress the details so much at this point. Don't get me wrong, you need to be detailed in your work when you're selling it. But you also need to just jump in and experiment and play. We all learned this stuff through trial and error. You have a good list to bypass some of our error, but you still have to try it out for yourself and see what works best for your methods and work process. Don't be afraid of using scraps, that's what they're for

Cyber! I am glad you posted as I have been stalking you for a while now. You supply a lot of direction that I've gotten for my list.

I definitely need to just dive right in, but I am timid. My problem is that the workshop is located at my parent's house since they already have a leather type of business going... not even close to what I am doing though... they work with used leather boots. I just have to use my time wisely since I can't be over there all day and night I am just going to start with dog collars and leashes and expand from there once I am comfortable with the processes or if I am even remotely good at this.

I've revised the steps... can you review and make sure that I understood everything right? Your processes all made great sense though, thank you SO much.

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb*

5) Remove from bag and let dry just until returning to natural color.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap.

7) Bevel all 4 edges. Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper with #150 and then #400.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool.

9) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Final edge burnish with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap.

11) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, an hour or two apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats.

*Wait several hours to dry*

12) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off all excess before letting dry.

*Wait overnight to dry*

13) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait several hours to dry*

14) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

15) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

*Wait overnight to dry*

16) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

17) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

18) Apply all hardware.

19) Glue leather as needed.

20) Sitch as needed.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Sleepyhouse22

[Harag]

Sleepy house, the list looks much better now with Cyber comments in it. When you have a complete list, please display it, I would also like to use it, it's better than mine already.

[Cyberthrasher]

Looks pretty good. There will be adjustments that you'll want to make as time goes by. This is just what I've come down to in my process. One thing to note, if stitching, you'll want to get that done BEFORE you do your edging so you can burnish both edges together (and also be sure to only bevel the outer edge of each piece). All in all it's a good list and will save you from "wasting" time. I would start by getting some scrap, tooling it (since that's a process all its own) and then start figuring out how to finish it all up once you're ready for that stage. Doesn't have to be anything you plan on sending out, and it doesn't have to really BE anything. Just grab a funky shaped piece of leather that's not good for anything and tool it up, then practice dying and edging and all that stuff to figure out each step and SEE for yourself what works and doesn't.

I'm really glad you've taken the time to research though. That's the first step to putting out killer work. Steps 2 and 3 - DO IT and LOOK AT IT

[Cyberthrasher]

Oh yeah, and you don't need much of a "workshop" to practice and get a feel for this stuff. Save that for when you're doing the actual work, but for practicing, just grab a few things and go. When you're there, tool up a bunch of scrap and take it out the door with you. From there you can work off your kitchen table. My workshop started as a simple desk that I had with no granite on it and a small cardboard box to hold my tools. Now I at least have some granite to go with my cardboard

[Sleepyhouse22]

One thing to note, if stitching, you'll want to get that done BEFORE you do your edging so you can burnish both edges together (and also be sure to only bevel the outer edge of each piece).

Okay, that makes sense. Do you mean do the stitching before doing the final burnishing or all burnishing? I was just hesitant about getting the antique or any dye on the stitching.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Sleepyhouse22

[Cyberthrasher]

If you glue it up well you can save the actual stitching for the end. Just make sure your pieces are assembled and not going anywhere when you edge/burnish them. This is one of those things where you may decide to mix up the order a little bit. Maybe you'll want to dye the main project, then dye the edges separately. Also, when gluing two pieces together, you'll want to sand up the edge regardless to clean off any glue runout.

[Sleepyhouse22]

If you glue it up well you can save the actual stitching for the end. Just make sure your pieces are assembled and not going anywhere when you edge/burnish them. This is one of those things where you may decide to mix up the order a little bit. Maybe you'll want to dye the main project, then dye the edges separately. Also, when gluing two pieces together, you'll want to sand up the edge regardless to clean off any glue runout.

I shall experiement then! I didn't know people even burnished two pieces together, but I guess that's how they get those beautiful pieces together so seamlessly.

What glue would you recommend?

[Cyberthrasher]

but I guess that's how they get those beautiful pieces together so seamlessly.

What glue would you recommend?

Yep!!

I like Barge contact cement. It's spendy, but works really well. There are other brands. Let me find a video on it real quick and I'll get back

Here you go. Look through all their other videos too and subscribe for when they post new ones.

[Sleepyhouse22]

Sleepy house, the list looks much better now with Cyber comments in it. When you have a complete list, please display it, I would also like to use it, it's better than mine already.

So this is what I have so far. I probably will do different things out of order like when I glue and what not depending on the project. I'm also sure this will change a gazillion more times.

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Run strap through a tray of water/dish soap. Let evaporate a little bit.

4) Bag in ziplock bag filled with a bit of air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb*

5) Remove from bag; let dry until near natural color. If tooling, tape back with 3M clear packing tape.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap.

7) Bevel all 4 edges (unless gluing edges together). Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper #150 and then #400.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool.

*Wait overnight to dry*

9) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Buff off dye very well with cloth or sheep wool.

11) Glue leather as needed with Barge’s contact cement/Barge’s thinner mix.

- Apply one layer on both pieces. Let absorb/dry 20 mins. Apply a second thin coat. Dry 10 mins.

- Stick pieces together. Hammer with mallet to seal well.

12) Burnish edges with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap.

13) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, 1-2 hours apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats.

*Wait several hours to dry*

14) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off excess before drying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait several hours to dry*

16) Burnish flesh side with saddle soap and canvas. Apply resolene/water mixture for a seal.

17) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

21) Apply all hardware.

22) Sitch as needed.

[mfrenchy]

This is a great list, do you think it would be possible to amend it with explanations for things that aren't obvious? Like why do you put it in a plastic bag overnight #4, or burnishing the flesh side, what effect does this produce #16?

Thanks for posting this

[Harag]

This is a great list, do you think it would be possible to amend it with explanations for things that aren't obvious? Like why do you put it in a plastic bag overnight #4, or burnishing the flesh side, what effect does this produce #16?

#4 - You want to read the "Casing Leather" topic pinned in the How Too forum (link below). it's explained better there, but basically it's so the casing solution (I use water and pure glycerin soap) can get into the fibers of the leather. I've tried both way, and found that my tooling was better with a cased leather than the one where I just wet. When I'm just messing and practicing (most of the time) I just wet the leather, but when I'm working on an Item I hope to possibly sell, then I case it. Even the messing around I try and case it the night before, but it all depends on time, as I'm never sure if I will be tooling the following day.

#16 - I'm not sure on this one, (Sleepyhouse, where did you see to do this???) - I've just done a couple of arm bracers / wrist bands so will try this, but my initial plan was to simply but some TanKote on the back to flatten down the fibers and make it smooth, then put my finish on it (Resolene 50/50) to seal it. I think the Tan Kote method is very similar.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121

[Cyberthrasher]

If your flesh side is "Fleshy", you need to smooth it and slick it. Get rid of all the fuzzies and get yourself a nice smooth surface. If you're leaving the flesh side natural, this will give it a much better appearance. If you're dying it, this will allow it to take the dye better.

The entire list is a composite of information found on the forum. Most of it is pretty easy to find with a little reading.

[Sleepyhouse22]

#16 - I'm not sure on this one, (Sleepyhouse, where did you see to do this???) - I've just done a couple of arm bracers / wrist bands so will try this, but my initial plan was to simply but some TanKote on the back to flatten down the fibers and make it smooth, then put my finish on it (Resolene 50/50) to seal it. I think the Tan Kote method is very similar.

http://leatherworker...showtopic=19121

http://www.etsy.com/teams/5623/association-of-workers-in-leather-awl/discuss/8762288/

Also on plenty of forum topics here I have seen either saddle soap or gum trag recommended. I am going to try both and see which I prefer.

[Sleepyhouse22]

1) Cut strap with strap cutter.

2) Punch buckle ends.

3) Case the leather (wetting). Dip strap in a tray of water with a couple drop of dish soap. Soak until bubbles slow down. Let strap dry a couple minutes before putting into bag.

4) Bag in a large ziplock bag filled with air so bag isn't touching top of leather.

*Wait overnight to absorb* (can be left wet for as long as needed... if leaving for a super long time, refrigerate).

5) Remove from bag; let dry until near natural color. If tooling, tape back with 3M clear packing tape to prevent the leather stretching.

6) Tool leather, rewetting as needed, covering unused areas with glass or plastic wrap to keep wet.

7) Bevel all 4 edges (unless gluing edges together). Sand edges (only if necessary) with sandpaper #150 and then #400. This removes the sharp edges of the leather and preps it for smoothing down.

8) Crease edges with border tool. If stitching use overstitching tool. This is just a line created along the edges to give it good definition or decoration.

*Wait overnight to dry*

9) Dye grain side and edges with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye.

*Wait overnight to dry*

10) Buff off dye very well with cloth or sheep wool. This is to pick up any dye residue and prevent particles from floating into your seal.

11) Glue leather as needed with Barge’s contact cement/Barge’s thinner mix.

- Apply one layer on both pieces. Let absorb/dry 20 mins. Apply a second thin coat. Dry 10 mins.

- Stick pieces together. Hammer with mallet to seal well.

12) Burnish edges with Fiebing's Glycerin Bar saddle soap. This smooths down and finishes your edges.

13) Seal grain side and edges with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene/Water 50/50 mixture. Apply 2-3 light coats, 1-2 hours apart. If antiquing, apply 4-5 light coats. This seals in the dye and protects it from bleeding.

*Wait several hours to dry*

14) If Antiquing, apply Fiebing's Antique Paste. Wipe off high spots immediately and work quickly. Wipe off excess before drying.

*Wait overnight to dry*

15) Seal with resolene/water 50/50 mixture again LIGHTLY as not to pull up antique (airbrush preferred).

*Wait several hours to dry*

16) Burnish flesh side with saddle soap and canvas. Apply resolene/water mixture for a seal. This is if you want a finished (slicked down, dyed, or shiny) look on the flesh side of your piece.

17) Apply polish to the edges (bees wax with canvas cloth).

18) Apply Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing to entire strap as a final conditioner/wax coating.

*Wait overnight to dry*

19) Buff any extra wax residue on top.

20) Punch all holes, tongue slots, etc.

21) Apply all hardware.

22) Sitch as needed.

[Cyberthrasher]

As with edges, Gum Trag is a crutch. Also, it's quite abrasive and harsh. If you're applying it to the back of something, that can cause some discomfort. When I'm treating the flesh side of my work, I give it a light sanding with fine grit then just moisten it with a sponge and use a bone folder to slick. If there's lots of flesh hanging off, I shave it off first, then sand and slick. Remember, Gum Trag only glues down the fibers. A good edge/back will have the fibers removed and then simply burnished down to a smooth finish. What's going to happen when that Gum Trag eventually wears off? Everything it was holding down will now be free to pop up and ruin the appearance of an otherwise good piece.

[Sleepyhouse22]

I ran into a few problems this week when I treked out to Tandy Leather. First was that they did not have glycerin bar saddle soap and said it would have to be bought online. He also said you have to have a Tax ID # to buy Barge's cement from them. And the dude had never heard of Montana Pitch Blend.

Then they told me that the pro oil dye will bleed through any products used on skin or indoors... that pro oil dye should only be used for outdoor working leather. I have tested the different dyes on leather this weekend... the pro oil dye leaves the leather feeling far more pliable, though this may be my imagination? I have read through the forums over and over again, people exclusively only use the pro oil dye. Any complaints have come from people using spirit dyes.

Any input on any of this?

[Cyberthrasher]

First off - You don't have to use Glycerin "saddle soap", any glycerin soap will do. I get mine from Springfield Leather. It's also available at many Farm and Ranch stores. That's also where I get my Barge cement and thinner (Springfield). You can use other stuff available at Home Depot. You DO NOT need a Tax ID to get things from Springfield, and I have absolutely why they would do something so stupid as to require a Tax ID in order to buy a specific product. Montana Pitch Blend is available direct from the manufacturer or on Amazon. I just buy direct. Google them and you'll find it.

Now, the bleeding. That's the words of someone who doesn't know how to seal their items. The Pro Oil Dye has a lot more pigment in it, which requires buffing (ESPECIALLY if you use it full strength). Missing that step alone will cause excess bleeding. From there, it's obvious this person has never put a finish coat over it. But, that said, I have several items that I've done with NO finish coat and they don't bleed. One of them I've been wearing on my wrist for over a year day in and out with tons of sweat and my arm isn't colored at all.

Think about their statement for a minute: "pro oil dye will bleed through any products used on skin or indoors....should only be used for outdoor working leather." Now, what happens to leather that's subjected to the elements? it gets WET. Leather getting wet is what causes it to bleed. An item is a lot less likely to bleed out if it's indoors because it's not subjected to moisture. Now, if you're dying the flesh side of something and you're wearing it, it's likely to rub off. STILL NOT A PROBLEM!! Just seal it with Resolene and send it out. I have several belts and guitar straps that are being worn on top of white clothing with the flesh side dyed black and sealed with Resolene. NOBODY has complained about bleeding onto their clothes.

Oh yeah, and remember, Tandy is a good place to get started, but if you want to do professional high quality work you're going to have to leave them behind and get better products from other sources. They'll give you advice for craft goods, but the majority of stores aren't good for much else above that.

Edited May 28, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[Sleepyhouse22]

First off - You don't have to use Glycerin "saddle soap", any glycerin soap will do. I get mine from Springfield Leather. It's also available at many Farm and Ranch stores. That's also where I get my Barge cement and thinner (Springfield). You can use other stuff available at Home Depot. You DO NOT need a Tax ID to get things from Springfield, and I have absolutely why they would do something so stupid as to require a Tax ID in order to buy a specific product. Montana Pitch Blend is available direct from the manufacturer or on Amazon. I just buy direct. Google them and you'll find it.

Now, the bleeding. That's the words of someone who doesn't know how to seal their items. The Pro Oil Dye has a lot more pigment in it, which requires buffing (ESPECIALLY if you use it full strength). Missing that step alone will cause excess bleeding. From there, it's obvious this person has never put a finish coat over it. But, that said, I have several items that I've done with NO finish coat and they don't bleed. One of them I've been wearing on my wrist for over a year day in and out with tons of sweat and my arm isn't colored at all.

Think about their statement for a minute: "pro oil dye will bleed through any products used on skin or indoors....should only be used for outdoor working leather." Now, what happens to leather that's subjected to the elements? it gets WET. Leather getting wet is what causes it to bleed. An item is a lot less likely to bleed out if it's indoors because it's not subjected to moisture. Now, if you're dying the flesh side of something and you're wearing it, it's likely to rub off. STILL NOT A PROBLEM!! Just seal it with Resolene and send it out. I have several belts and guitar straps that are being worn on top of white clothing with the flesh side dyed black and sealed with Resolene. NOBODY has complained about bleeding onto their clothes.

Oh yeah, and remember, Tandy is a good place to get started, but if you want to do professional high quality work you're going to have to leave them behind and get better products from other sources. They'll give you advice for craft goods, but the majority of stores aren't good for much else above that.

Thank you so much for the advice! I agree, I was very thrown off about the pro oil dye thing. I mean... I put back 3 quarts of the stuff because he was pressuring me so much about it. Thankfully, I told him I'd like to try the smaller bottle and just see for myself. I did, I love it more than the regular dye. I buffed it like you said, and then I just sealed it. No problem at all.

I was considering taking classes there, but now I don't know if I want to do that after all of the above.

[Cyberthrasher]

Well, I wouldn't buy quarts just yet. Get yourself some small bottles of various colors. They'll last you longer than you think. I do use some Fiebing's regular dye (spirit) for colors that aren't available in the Pro Oil and I haven' really seen any issues with those. But, I haven't done full coverage with them either. Right now I've only used the blues.

Don't worry about taking classes. Just practice and be honest with your work. If something doesn't seem perfect, figure out what you need to do to fix it. There are plenty of good examples around here and on the internet in general that you can compare to. That's the only education I've had in leather and for some reason people treat me like a pro or something. But, on the other hand, don't let that experience be a judgement against ALL Tandy employees. I've known of some good ones out there. It's just that in general, I hear a lot of stories like that from people. My main issue with Tandy is the inferior products.

[Harag]

I've been working through this list while making a dog collar. where in the list would "apply neatsfoot oil" appear?

do I put this on before dying, or after?

[Cyberthrasher]

Usually before. Sometimes you may need a little tiny light coat after to help even out some dye, or because the dye has dried out the leather too much.