Restoring My '83 Circle Y. What Dye And Finish To Use?

[GoldArmored]

I bought this saddle 3 years ago and it's in good condition, but even if I keep cleaning it, there's still a lot of dirt and sweat caked in the tooling. It looks like the person before me used glycerin saddle soap to clean it many times but didn't removed the excess, and added layers of neatsfoot oils over it. It created a sticky surface and 30yrs later, the mix became hard and quite impossible to dissolve. I spent hours, toothbrush in hand, rubbing my fully tooled saddle with every possible saddle cleaning products (and warm water alone) but still, we can see the nasty dirt caked in.

But this week, I used Fiebing's Deglazer on an old breastcollar and all the caked in dirt came off easily!!! Tho, it also removes the dye and the finish...

Here comes the thing.

I plan to 'deglaze' my saddle to clean it deeply once and for all! But the problem is, that I don't know what dye and finish to use after. Since It's a saddle I ride in, I want the dye to stay on the leather, not on my jeans (the saddle color is dark oil). I don't want a glossy look neither, like some finish does. I want a natural look, just like quality saddles (shiny leather is for cheap imported saddles). I'd like to be able to still use neatsfoot oil and aussie wax without messing it.

I don't want to use Eco-flo stuff since it's not tough enough for a saddle... maybe fiebing's pro oil dye? or just their regular dye?

Thanks a million for this precious help!!!

Edited June 1, 2013 by GoldArmored

[EquusCustomLeathers]

I have done a couple of old saddles with deglazer, and as long as you take as much of the saddle apart as you possibly can, it works great. After the deglazer, I oiled them with pure neatsfoot oil, and let it sit for a couple of days (covered with old sheeting so the dust doesn't get in).

Give it a good wipe off with a rag, and I used regular Fiebings dye. You may have to sort of "feather" the dye in some worn spots, as the dye doesn't take as well in those places, just so it evens it out. Rub the daylights out of it when the dye is dry, and I used 50/50 Resolene and water for a finish. Two coats if you are looking for a duller finish, three if you want it a little shiny.

I did the first one a couple of years ago, and the other a few monthes ago, and apparently they still look great. It's a big job to take on, but it's worth it for higher end or special saddles.

Hope that helps!

[Saddlebag]

Usually the sticky surface is caused by too much oiling. You might want to wait until after you've deglazed the leather to decide what to do.

[PcCowboy]

I havn't seen many saddles that are dyed. Mainly lettering and background if it has fancy tooling. I leave all my saddles natural. Just put on Veg oil to give it that golden color. The more you rub in, the darker it gets. Veg. oil soaks into the leather and does not build up on top.

[Saddlebag]

I was advised to not use veg. oil and it goes rancid and becomes attractive to mice.

[PcCowboy]

I was advised to not use veg. oil and it goes rancid and becomes attractive to mice.

I have been using veg oil since 92 and never seen any to go rancid. I have worked on my own saddles that I have made that are over 10 years old and they are fine.

[Saddlebag]

For two years I worked in the repair and restoration of library materials which included very old leather bindings and this is where I received the advice about veg. oil. Have you ever used Dubbin on your used saddles?

[EquusCustomLeathers]

I can understand why you wouldn't want to use vegetable oil on old books..it's a (hopefully) climate controlled, indoor item. I have used it on outdoor tack before, and there hasn't been a problem. Maybe different oils are appropriate for different applications..

[PcCowboy]

For two years I worked in the repair and restoration of library materials which included very old leather bindings and this is where I received the advice about veg. oil. Have you ever used Dubbin on your used saddles?

Never heard of Dubbin. I had been using Lexol on old saddles but switched to "Leather Thearpy". I can see Veg oil going bad in a climate control room. Out doors the leathers dries out and you have to keep re-applying the veg oil to keep it in. I do not use veg oil on old saddles because it darkens the leather to much.

[Saddlebag]

I borrowed this from Wiki

Dubbin is a wax product used to soften, condition and waterproof leather and other materials. It consists of natural wax, oil and tallow.It is different from shoe polish, which is used to impart shine and colour to leather. Dubbin has been used since medieval times to waterproof and soften leather boots.The name dubbin is a contraction of the gerund dubbing, describing the action of applying the wax to leather.

It comes in a round metal tin. Days within my applying Dubbin to the saddle we were caught in a sudden heavy downpour. The gal riding behind me laughed at how the water beaded off my saddle. By the time we got back her saddle had soaked up a lot of water.

[PcCowboy]

Good to know. Waterproofing leather has it's place. But I'm sort of old school and thinks of leather as being alive and needing to breath. I never seal the leather. I let the customer do that if they want, and then it is up to me to scrap all that crap off when it's time to clean them LOL

[Saddlebag]

PcCowboy, I had that saddle for many years. Gave it a good annual cleaning and a light application of Dubbin. Just before I sold it I applied a recipe I have that helps remove dirt and surface oil, a glycerin soaping and the saddle looked like it came out of the show room. Apparently when the calvary had to store their saddles for some time they would clean and Dubbin them, wrap them in oil cloth and store in the metal footlocker. That is why I gave it a try. This was from when I worked in the historical library.