Any Campbell Keystone Splitter Owners?

[Trox]

Hi Tor, I do have a strop from Goodsjapan which I use for my swivel knives. But the leather was soft, so I split a piece of veg tan myself (used splits to ensure its level) then I ran the split several times through a pasta roller, glued it to the strop and applied green rouge.

It works on my swivel knives, but on my Heritage, i find I just end up dulling the blade by stropping it. I gave up and just sent it to the machine shop whenever necessary.

Having to ship almost everything from US, for once I have something which I could 'buy' locally, I just allow myself to be lazy.

Hi,

I have the same problem living in Norway, I buy most of my stuff from the US too.

Sounds like you have a good strop there. You may consider a thicker leather on everything else than a swivel blade. I use plastic and cardboard on the the swivels.

If you dull your blade you have the wrong angle or direction of your pull. Be careful on the flat side, do keep the blade flat at all time or else you will dull it.

Follow the blade angle and at the end of your stroke, be careful not to change the angle. I cannot see why you will get a dull blade? keep the blade edge 90 degree to the strop and pull back wards (away from the edge). If you maintain the angel true out the stroke you cannot get it wrong. Its maybe when you polish underneath, its only necessary to polish that side to get rid of any burrs (It must be flat). You finish out by changing sides every stroke so you get rid of any burrs. I am used to sharpening and automatically maintain my angle working with an blade, its of importance of course.

[Trox]

The shipping took only a week.. So I don't think the fact that I'm an overseas customer made a difference. Anyway, having bought Tandy tooling leather, I'm well trained in dealing with disappointment. I guess I can work this one out.

Yes, I can imagine thats a bad leather. Why do you not contact some of our Australian member and ask them where they buy their leather, thats not that far away? (I think every thing from Tandy is a disappointment) I forgot you where living in Asia, I suppose you will get your sharpening done cheap there, I strop my every knife before and after use.

[reddevil76]

Thanks Troy, I now only order leather from Wickett and Craig and Hermann Oak from Goliger and so far so good

[Trox]

Thanks Troy, I now only order leather from Wickett and Craig and Hermann Oak from Goliger and so far so good

We have leather dealers here and my suppliers have all kinds of the good stuff. You know, cold climate and fewer insects. Nevertheless, there are no tanneries left here so it is import leather. Italy, Sweden UK and Germany, not much from the US. Tools and part I buy allot of in the US

Tor

Edited July 9, 2013 by Trox

[CampbellRandall]

Anyway I'm not asking for anything in return or refund, just tell me how to get it to split 7 inch so that I don't regret this hefty purchase.

Pull through machines are widely used for strap work. The blade size does not always equate to splitting potential as this is contingent more on the firmness of the leather as well as the strength and steady hand of the operator. It will take a great deal of force to pull 7" of leather through any machine. We have continued to make the Keystone with the 8" blade as they have been made for over 100 years, with the main purpose being the user can continue to work across new sections of the blade as it dulls without the need to remove and sharpen as often. You can split wide pieces, but be prepared to constantly hone the blade edge and increase your forearm strength. Parts of this size should really be split in a power splitter, but not everyone can afford such a machine. Please consider that workmanship and quality of the materials can take you so far, but we are fighting the physics and pressure of a large split. It is hard to do on a manually pulled machine.

In regards to the blade position, I would recommend pulling the blade back off center (toward the pull side) to allow a better bite. You will also need to take the large pieces in multiple passes.

For the example below, I split a piece of 10 oz to 1.5 oz (4 to .06 mm). The leather width varied from the full 8" down to 7". It was not easy and I had to take 4 splits. I used the sister to your machine, which was built by the same person and the same day as yours, with the same blade edge.

We do take pride in our work. Customer satisfaction is important which is why we offer a 30-day return policy. If the machine will not work for your needs, we will take it back.

[reddevil76]

Hi Dan, in my original email to Lisa, as well as when I turn down your offer of compensation, I believe it was quite apparent to you my intention is to genuinely find out if the shipped condition is the same as others, in which case I'd just accept it.

And also to highlight to you what is being shipped out the door. Sometimes management may not know what is going out their doors to customers.

Anyway, I've just replied your mail and have explained my reason why I can't accept that I can only split straps on this easily.

In any case, I'm ready to make this work. I've just got a small can of black paint to touch up the chipped areas and rusty parts.

The blade in your pic certainly looks a lot better finished than mine. So my plan to send it for resharpening may indeed prove to solve the problem.

Just a suggestion, instead of taping a piece of cardboard over the blade and then stuffing styrofoam and newspaper all over, you might want to consider a light cost of oil, then Saran Wrap the whole machine, and fill the box with bubble wrap.

Styrofoam breaks on impact. And Saran wrapping it prevents the blade from moving.

[reddevil76]

One question about the groove on the roller. I must first ensure the roller is positioned such that the groove is at top dead center before it is useful for blade alignment purpose. How do I position the groove?

[CampbellRandall]

I would recommend moving the blade back a hair. You can use the the alignment groove - simply roll the groove to top center, then slightly back. Push the roll up to the blade and lock the blade in position parallel with the groove. The offset will allow you to bite into the material better.

It sounds as like a little bit of honing is all you need. These large splits are not the easiest as it is pushing the limits of the machine.

Thank you for bringing the condition to my attention. We will have a discussion about this with both the shop and shipping department. Let me know if we can help with anything else.

[reddevil76]

I'm not sure how to make sure the groove is EXACTLY top center. Are there any markings I'm missing? If not I'll just use a measuring guide.

[Trox]

Hi Dan,

My long term plan is to get rid of my existing three splitters (plus a 5-1 machine) and buy a powered splitter and one of your Keystone machine. Therefore , I hope you continue to offer your machine to the current price. Its a great price by the way, compared to the # 84, Heritage and Tandy tool. Talking about 5-1 machines, I have a couple that needs some attention. New roller knifes, maybe the support wheel too. Do you stock them?.

Hi Dylan,

Good luck with your new splitter, nice talking to you.

Tor