Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

[simontuntelder]

I was just wondering, which maker/shop/company should I be buying awls from (preferably in the EU/UK)?

I need one suitable for 5-6 spi and one for 7-9 spi.

[simontuntelder]

I hope it's OK, that I ask questions like these here. I have a feeling some of the best people on the forum are watching this thread and it's mostly people that have a bigger passion for quality than I have.

[Macca]

http://www.laederiet.dk stock Blanchard tools, you could ask them to get some awls for you (they can order anything from Blanchard)

http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_produits.cfm?type=17&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2

Alene aux pinces are the diamond awls, you can order direct but I think the minimum order is 100 Euro, so a bit more than a few awls

[Macca]

Thank you Walter, Macca, and Tor! This is my favorite thread on the forum! One thing I am finding interesting after seeing several are the different configurations of the fences (guides). Steel, brass, two pieces of steel, etc. Then the shape viewed from the top is interesting. They all have some "flare" on the front. From there some have a long flat area. Others have a shorter flat area and may flare back out a bit on the back edge of the guide. This flare at the back seems to be a bit more common on some of the Dixons. One question I have is on the screws on the Blanchards. Is there a name for those with the rounded heads? Are they still available in Europe? One thing with them I found last year is at least some, the rounded head is threaded onto the shaft of the screw. I had a plough gauge that the head would unscrew from the shaft when it was loosened. Thank you, Bruce

Bruce, I had a look at my gauges, I would say the French ones are meant to have straight fences, some don't but I assume these were "modified" by the user ! The dixons definitely flares at the front

Pictures below, I tried to align the fences with the grid on the mat to show any flare, only the blanchard in the 2nd pic has any, so I think that was done by the user.

Finally, the dixons

[walter roth]

Hi Macca, Bruce, Simonuntelder.......................

Yes of course, the round handles I then bought by Blanchard, who are still exactly like this one.

The other sword-Awls handles it no longer gets, and also Dixon from England sold for sword-Awls its round handles.

Well, all of which have no idea how to sew properly ....)) -:

Round Awls can be good buy from Blanchard. The beech wood handles of Dixon are also good, but only for round-Awls.

Only the Awls are unfortunately poor quality today.

The rounds are often polished and the sword-awls made only for the patent folders, so the peaks are cut back and only half length.

"Patent awls terms" use no saddle here, that's what ignorant, are frowned upon by professional people.

My stocks of Awls iron I have for many years.

Also in the USA they make many beautiful handles, but those for Awls can be found anywhere.

It is probably so that is closer to real rare find, the other techniques of leatherworking are easier to learn and you put more value on as decoration on beautiful sew.

Greeting

Walter

Edited September 29, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hello macca...

The curved plates at the plough, to 90%, were always so and so made by the manufacturer.

Very rarely seen just Straight plates, because the curved are simply better to handle. Straight plate practicing more pressure, because Lakshmi in straight plate of the belt is different.

If one part that screws apart, recognizes it lightly it didn't as the manufacturer. straight or curved.

Greeting

Walter

Edited September 29, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hi leather craftsman...

today I was at a small party to inaugurate this newly restored truck of the Swiss firm of Saurer from 1912.

It was very nice there. You have extra beer bottles with the truck as

Made label, to which also fit the invitation card, and it gave a lecture on the history of the company of Saurer.

Even the tablecloths were specially printed with images.

This car was waiting since 1977 on his restoration, but until 2003, it went off. Now after 8 years he has fought.

In other words, the trailer that is still missing, ...aber will be ready years also in 1-2...((-:

It took 8 years because it only took 5 years to make the Acacia wood for the spokes of the wheels dry.

I worked only slightly on the vehicle, I did the belt works, and I was supposed to do the roof.

I made but to the condition I the roof do, I can do very bad upholstery work on the car once again new.

Because the car Sattler who first made it, which was a beginner. He has not understood the way of work dating from 1912, and also badly executed the work.

Well, they wanted now must quickly finish the car after 8 years, for they now have a canvas roof that doesn't fit to the vehicle, and a lousy cushion on it.

But there are now only a few people who can even recognize such defects.

Well, anyway, I thought it is certainly quite interesting to see some pictures for you.

The Wagner who made the wheels and the wooden structure of the car, who is a colleague of mine. He is an excellent professional man.

He built the Gotthard mail coach to looking at the following link with his father, it was the first coach I've equipped the Sattler and it was also the first carriage leather tops you I made.

https://www.Google.c...5&DPR=1#imgdii= _

http://www.gotthardp...h/index.php/de/

These mail coaches were used around the turn of the century to drive particularly the Gotthard with wealthy tourists over the Alpine passes.

It was tourism, but because it was at that time already the Gotthard tunnel with the railway.

Rich Englishman paid over 100 years ago but already good money, to marvel at the way the mountains of Switzerland.

The car is rolling now for over 25 years and has withstood everything.

Greeting

Walter

[Macca]

Very nice Walter

It must be very interesting to work on such projects

[walter roth]

Hello Macca...

Yes, that is so.

However, it is also again exhausting, because every time must you again teach how to do it and what not to do to people.

You must include also the culture of the time, when one makes such a vehicle.

This is very important especially with the coaches.

There, the substance of the Interior with the wardrobe of women had to earlier harmony which resulted in practice often it were certain coaches equipped with black fabric. To black, everything matched the.

Often, clients want to do, that simply do not belong on a historic vehicle.

Either car much to luxurious, like those, or much too easy for others, halt, depending on the customer.

These old things have a culture, and the craftsmen had their ways of working, you should always understand that.

The fabric of the roof with Staples not fasten on to a vehicle, but with nails we used.

Well, the car that I failed, the customer wanted to listen to me.

But the pad will look so bad years in 2-3 that it must be made new. The venture Yes now often used, he has been to the 100 km. behind him, in his second life. According to the logbook, he needed already 33 hours of engine running time for the 100 km...((((((((((((-:

I have made so far about 30 coaches and some cars, all but vehicles in 1914. I don't do those after 1914.

For me nothing new anymore, but there is always something to learn.

I did often forge work themselves in carriages.

Because forging that fine work are very rare today and car forge there is no more.

Well, over the last 30 years many of the artisans are died I needed work for the very good. At some point it will then probably to end be, not because of me, but because I miss the other craftsmen to do so.

To restore this truck it needed about 30 different craftsmen, all specialists and professionals so today not being trained.

Many here still have them know which introduced at the learn their profession before 40 / 50 years ago, by then already ancient craftsmen were told.

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 5, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hi leather craftsman...

Here is what titled "Reifeln", or in English...Creassing.

I went to a colleague today and used the opportunity these machines for you to shooting.

Here a machine in green color, she once was mine, and I've sold them... Unfortunately...))-: ...vor about was 15 years.

Well, in addition 2 models that are older, but there are all Swiss products seen here since the 1920 he years.

The machine easily and very easy to use sin, also they have a heater for the roles above the lines into the leather press.

Below is the transport roller, turn the upper rollers not at the turn of the crank.

Now I'm just to build 2-3 of such machines.

If a SADDLER for example driving lines to the coaching makes, then these devices are super convenient, easy and continuously in the width adjustable.

Also, you can insert the 1 or 2 lines of course roles or draw wider / finer.

At Weaver's are models that spread with the firm, the big heavy things Yes the old industry. I find the machines good and interesting, but they are not really good to use for the traditional Sattler.

So it looks at you.

Greeting

Walter

[Schpacko]

Hi Guys

I bought a plough gauge about one year ago. It was in a pretty good condition, there was only one bad thing about it: It didn't cut. I tried to sharpen it, but i guess my nonexistent sharpening skills made it even worse. So, i put it in a box and almost forgot about it, until i stumbled upon this thread. Since Walter is a fellow countryman, i asked him if he wanted to recondition the tool, and he agreed. He found out that the blade has been sharpened over the years to a point where it was just unusable. So, i bought a blanchard blade and below you can see the result. I guess i dont have to tell you which one is before and which one after

I can only applaud to Walter's work, he did a great job. The gauge looks just like new. Also, he's a very nice and helpful guy and VERY knowledgeable when it comes to leatherwork. He also offered me a little crash course in sharpening. Since he lives only about 100km away from me, i guess i'm gonna take this offer sooner or later.

[Macca]

very nice Schpacko, looks like a great tool you have there

Nice job Walter !

[walter roth]

Hey guys...

Thanks for the praise, I hear something very happy.

The knife of Blanchard is actually in the quality still like 30 years ago, when I the first time one bought there.

Only the brand of "Vergez-Blanchard" is very poorly made, she went for the Polish almost alone away.

So Reto, I hope you enjoy it.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]

_{Hi Guys...}

_{Still, a work which I have just completed.}

_{Here in the Switzerland, there are few Saddel producing for French saddles.French they say here because they have separate saddle pad,... are not connected with the inner leaves of the saddle.}

_{I do not think that we have someone here in the blog has the experience with the production of saddles, but I want to show you yet.}

_{Belts tensioners are on the images, they are used to harness the saddle trees made of wood.}

_{Exactly how, I'll show you sometime.}

_{One unit is about 100 years old, you can find it in Blanchard catalogues from the 19th century.}

_{The other two I have modified something, but taken over the fine style of the old devices.}

_{I think I managed quite well and share that are now quite beautiful and it is a pleasure to use something.}

_{I myself have made the technical sketches.}

_{The parts I did have to cut with the laser and a mechanic has made the spring and screws.}

_{Then I browned the pieces and galvanized gloss and black.}

_{Sure it would have been better I would have hard-chrome-plated everything Durit-Method, but I like it just when it looks classic.}

_{The two devices in the background I will meet in the next ready to revise and adjust you here too.}

_{It is a device which the Saddler used at the heavy canvas the hems on the edges to folding, and the folding of to prägen.}

_{The other device with the rubber roller is a leather-edge polishing machine.}

_{The device which Weaver offered today, which was used exactly here 5 decades ago. This apparatus is now 30 years old.}

_{I will make it yet, and then add photos here.}

_{The rubber rollers are still without cover and there are still 2 parts because.}

_{I've used all that often, and it was not nice enough to show it to you.}

_{But there are already...}

_Greeting

_Walter

Edited October 18, 2013 by walter roth

[Trox]

Hi leather craftsman...

Here is what titled "Reifeln", or in English...Creassing.

I went to a colleague today and used the opportunity these machines for you to shooting.

Here a machine in green color, she once was mine, and I've sold them... Unfortunately...))-: ...vor about was 15 years.

Well, in addition 2 models that are older, but there are all Swiss products seen here since the 1920 he years.

The machine easily and very easy to use sin, also they have a heater for the roles above the lines into the leather press.

Below is the transport roller, turn the upper rollers not at the turn of the crank.

Now I'm just to build 2-3 of such machines.

If a SADDLER for example driving lines to the coaching makes, then these devices are super convenient, easy and continuously in the width adjustable.

Also, you can insert the 1 or 2 lines of course roles or draw wider / finer.

At Weaver's are models that spread with the firm, the big heavy things Yes the old industry. I find the machines good and interesting, but they are not really good to use for the traditional Sattler.

So it looks at you.

Greeting

Walter

Hello Walter,

very nice creasing machines. I see one of them has the heating element outside (on the top) of the shaft. Those this work as well as the others. I am planning to make an creaser, embossing machine out of that pinking machine I bought the other day. It has double tension , the lever on the back moves the top shaft up and down. Then you can also adjust the bottom brass roller up and down. There are two ball bearings inside the bottom brass roller. The bottom roller system can be changed for an other solution.

For the top shaft I can buy embossing wheels or creasing wheels. (I can also have them made of course). It has allot of tension power, because the pinking wheels must cut true heavy leather. I think it will become an excellent little strap embossing and creasing machine. With some work of course. I am interesting in your opinion, and if an heating element like the one in your picture can be used on this machine too. Where did you buy this heating elements. (on the machine you made, I know you did not made them all)

In advance thank you.

Tor

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

Can some with such a massive frame sure do.

I'm just to make 2 of the machines.

However I have not dealt even with the heating element, that comes later.

I'm on the green machine. There that are inserted into the upper shaft heating cable, it of like with a soldering iron and is controlled in the heat of a Dimer. (Switch on the cable with red button)

So 2 months these 2 things should be done.

You give not a lot of work, but I also only occasionally have time to work.

If you are waiting for something, then I will provide the data to the heating element you.

I have here enough companies who can advise me there.

I was now ready for the belt tensioner, see previous post, now I'll make the Creasser machines...(((-:

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 21, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

I think I'll dea heating Creassers a part of a soldering iron use.

See here ...... http://at.rs-online.com/web/p/lotkolben-zubehor/0662002/

To do this you can just a matching drilled hole in the shaft make and that part insert. Now you must regulate only its performance with a Dimer in the cable and already fas should work.

Unfortunately the current you can from the wave out where it appears one of the best.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Thank you Walter, I saw the tensioner, it looks very nice. Good job. I am in no hurry with this machine. I will wait until you write me about the heating elements. Thank you very much. Strange burnishing roller on that leather edge burnishing/polishing machine,I use a wood roller on mine. The rubber material looks like some kind of sex toy, pardon my language. I suppose it made to get maximum friction, does it work good? Do you use it with wax or something else.

Thanks

Tor

[Trox]

Hi Tor...

I think I'll dea heating Creassers a part of a soldering iron use.

See here ...... http://at.rs-online....ubehor/0662002/

To do this you can just a matching drilled hole in the shaft make and that part insert. Now you must regulate only its performance with a Dimer in the cable and already fas should work.

Unfortunately the current you can from the wave out where it appears one of the best.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks for the link, the shaft is to narrow on my machine, I got to use a outside element.

Thanks

Tor

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

I will add pictures when I finish the edge polishing machine.

Front and rear I must attach 2 new wooden parts and the rubber rollers are covered with fabric.

This means that they be repaired only with a strip of cloth.

The rubber rollers are just more flexible as the wooden rollers.

Also, one plastered the leather edge usually with a cloth. (the plaster cloth or polishing cloth)

So only edges down, then grind or if they are double, with the beautiful the color on it and "edge shine"... equalised shards of glass, ....Gum Arabic or .....hot glue ( bone ) on it and with the cloth ( linen ) by the hand drawn.

So is Yes at the Sattler of the edge of the leather shiny made plastered and shcön...

And so bearbieten clean can also special contours, the rubber rollers rubber were made with us and under the rubber is also a spring which makes it more elastic. She hugs the contour of the edge even better where it is soft.

But as I said, I have now revised my machine, when it is done the images come.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine"

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28079

I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out.

I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well.

Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum.

However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops.

In advance thanks

Tor

[simontuntelder]

At Tor: I just got back from Laederiet, and they have some new edge dyes from Italy. They're supposedly what a lot of industry companies use. If that's a good thing, I don't know. But I'll let you know, if they're any good once I get the chance to try them out.

At Walter: You're probably the second guy ever to recommend using hide/pearl/animal glue to finish edges. The first one was an old saddler that I bought some tools off. However he didn't seem like a very good craftsman, so I didn't take his word for much. But I have some glue lying around, but how do you apply it and how do you rub it in?

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

So the apparatus to the edge polishing use we share here mostly for the small, the curved shapes and the tip of the belt.

The apparatus with a polishing head is also inadequate, because the traditional Sattler has always "black" and "Brown" leather, he needs so always 2 machines or 2 polishing heads. One for Brown and one for black, because black leather is processed very often at the Sattler.

May also be that waxes for the edges are, I've never used this. I dekne already that this inventions are of leather craftsmen have learned the craft itself and which do not know the old methods.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]

Post 1 .........Edges Polishing.

Hi Guys..............

So that edges polishing... I will try it if I can't describe with my English((-:

I actually thought that was still widely known.

So, if one makes the belt with 2 layers and has sewn so it grinds today the edges often using a grinding machine. For example, I often use this one...

http://www.westerntool.com/Makita-1-1-8-inch-x-21-inch-vs-belt-sander.html

He can handle well in the vise clamp.

Earlier, you made this work but with the "shards" (glass shards).

You took a piece of window glass, and cut it to size with the glass cutter into small pieces so 6 x 3 cm.

Cut the glass there but only an edge that cuts really well, that is the "lower". Because the "top" of it carved a using a glass cutter is of course no longer intact and so also not sharp.

With the sharp side of the glass is now pulled off the double strap leather edge and equalised, - beautiful flat made.

This one stretches the straps in the stitching horse and pulling the glass at a slight angle com light pressure on the edge of the leather.

You will see that the glass edge is very sharp and well cuts away the leather, without that you damaged the belt or embrasures makes immediately recognize how the angle must be, you will become.

Editing makes a smoother edge with the glass as it is possible with the machine.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]



Hi guys... Post 2 Edges Polishing.

So, if you now well prepared the edges, so it tints it.

I used to do this so far still colors from Spain, ...die 20 years but can't get...)))-:

But, the called "Teinture française" was produced in Spain.

This color was mixed on Almond öel basis and she was extremely good. In other words, you could color black edges and they wear on white fabric without that she dyed off.

They existed in many colors. Titled, there's still a color, but it has to do more with the earlier nothing.

Today I am using almost none more oil dye as you know them well, and because I have the Spanish only for very special.

After the color, take edges gloss and pulls the belt through a piece of cloth made of thick canvas it is holding in his hand. So 5-10 times what they do.

Edges shine as I mostly use it to this day, it is unfortunately something that no longer exists.

It was a loose bone glue. That is, he was succeeded as hot glue with a liquid so you cold always could use him if you wanted to. What was the solvent, I don't know that.

Earlier, you often use "Gum", a tree resin which was resolved to an adhesive

German: http://de.wikipedia..../Gummi_arabicum

English: http://commons.wikim....org/wiki/File: Gomma_arabica.png

Rubber Gum Arabic can dissolve in water and is actually a glue.

If he is more diluted, called it here at the Saddlers just "Rubber water", and used it as a edge gloss.

Easier you did it with hot glue or bone glue as you used it since ancient times already.

I used to be always the old glue plates from old stock. The old plates are somehow better than the new glue beads, but the difference is maybe more in the good ratio of glue to the water.

To make bone glue, you need a glue pot.

Here the modern version with thermostat.

http://www.deffner-J...MIT-Deckel.html

http://www.Kleelux.d...ilings/LEIM.htm

Bone glue in Pearl today...

http://www.Kleelux.d...ilings/LEIM.htm

Earlier in plates...

http://www.eBay.de/I...=item58a57ed963

http://www.eBay.de/I...=item53fe1642fc

Here something to do how to process bone glue in German language, there are also in English.

http://www.lederkram...hp?go_to_this=/ category.php? cat_ID = 885 & anchor = undefined

So, bone glue in sheet form it shatters into small pieces and place them in the pot with water. The water should barely cover the pieces and leave there some time it until they become soft. It is like with the gelatin in the cakes make... ((- )

Then the whole thing on "warm", "do not cook", but to the whole thing will be only liquid. In addition, the pot of glue in a "Bain-Marie" has to be heated. So the pot in a larger pot with water to and then on top of the stove.

That is as far as you must check only whether it is liquid enough. If not simply some more water. It should be beautifully fluid but not as thin as water.

The glue pots today keep bone glue at approx. 60-65 ° of hours and you can always work. The Sattler it must be but just so hot that he remains pretty liquid.

The old models have a small burner with alcohol or even petroleum down.

Where you must regulate itself with the wick and flame height.

The glue were the Lederkannte apply and shine with a rag.

So take the Riemern immediately by the hand with the cloth.

He will be leaving after working to cool the bone glue, ever to thick to a "jelly-like" mass.

Simply heat the next time and possibly some more water.

You can however not forever keep the glue, it begins to smell and rotting.

The new today are as but less tricky, they were produced much cleaner as you made it earlier.

If there are some "Glycerin" it lasts longer and is a little smoother.

Oh yeah, warm bone glue in the copper or aluminium pot, because otherwise he is dark and that's not good in brown leather. Bone-glue reacts with iron and turns dark.

And Bone-glue smells sometimes somewhat strictly, but usually only at the old plates glues, today are very clean, but what brings no benefits to the application, old glues were just a little different.

Bone glue edges are, if one has learned it even the most beautiful that exists.

So if not hope that suffices, it writes, then I'll make time a prescription with grams and liters and Aufweichen time, cooking time, etc.

I've never written it down, but always only just made the wrist...((-:

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 22, 2013 by walter roth