Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

Can some with such a massive frame sure do.

I'm just to make 2 of the machines.

However I have not dealt even with the heating element, that comes later.

I'm on the green machine. There that are inserted into the upper shaft heating cable, it of like with a soldering iron and is controlled in the heat of a Dimer. (Switch on the cable with red button)

So 2 months these 2 things should be done.

You give not a lot of work, but I also only occasionally have time to work.

If you are waiting for something, then I will provide the data to the heating element you.

I have here enough companies who can advise me there.

I was now ready for the belt tensioner, see previous post, now I'll make the Creasser machines...(((-:

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 21, 2013 by walter roth

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

I think I'll dea heating Creassers a part of a soldering iron use.

See here ...... http://at.rs-online.com/web/p/lotkolben-zubehor/0662002/

To do this you can just a matching drilled hole in the shaft make and that part insert. Now you must regulate only its performance with a Dimer in the cable and already fas should work.

Unfortunately the current you can from the wave out where it appears one of the best.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Thank you Walter, I saw the tensioner, it looks very nice. Good job. I am in no hurry with this machine. I will wait until you write me about the heating elements. Thank you very much. Strange burnishing roller on that leather edge burnishing/polishing machine,I use a wood roller on mine. The rubber material looks like some kind of sex toy, pardon my language. I suppose it made to get maximum friction, does it work good? Do you use it with wax or something else.

Thanks

Tor

[Trox]

Hi Tor...

I think I'll dea heating Creassers a part of a soldering iron use.

See here ...... http://at.rs-online....ubehor/0662002/

To do this you can just a matching drilled hole in the shaft make and that part insert. Now you must regulate only its performance with a Dimer in the cable and already fas should work.

Unfortunately the current you can from the wave out where it appears one of the best.

Greeting

Walter

Thanks for the link, the shaft is to narrow on my machine, I got to use a outside element.

Thanks

Tor

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

I will add pictures when I finish the edge polishing machine.

Front and rear I must attach 2 new wooden parts and the rubber rollers are covered with fabric.

This means that they be repaired only with a strip of cloth.

The rubber rollers are just more flexible as the wooden rollers.

Also, one plastered the leather edge usually with a cloth. (the plaster cloth or polishing cloth)

So only edges down, then grind or if they are double, with the beautiful the color on it and "edge shine"... equalised shards of glass, ....Gum Arabic or .....hot glue ( bone ) on it and with the cloth ( linen ) by the hand drawn.

So is Yes at the Sattler of the edge of the leather shiny made plastered and shcön...

And so bearbieten clean can also special contours, the rubber rollers rubber were made with us and under the rubber is also a spring which makes it more elastic. She hugs the contour of the edge even better where it is soft.

But as I said, I have now revised my machine, when it is done the images come.

Greeting

Walter

[Trox]

Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine"

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28079

I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out.

I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well.

Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum.

However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops.

In advance thanks

Tor

[simontuntelder]

At Tor: I just got back from Laederiet, and they have some new edge dyes from Italy. They're supposedly what a lot of industry companies use. If that's a good thing, I don't know. But I'll let you know, if they're any good once I get the chance to try them out.

At Walter: You're probably the second guy ever to recommend using hide/pearl/animal glue to finish edges. The first one was an old saddler that I bought some tools off. However he didn't seem like a very good craftsman, so I didn't take his word for much. But I have some glue lying around, but how do you apply it and how do you rub it in?

[walter roth]

Hi Tor...

So the apparatus to the edge polishing use we share here mostly for the small, the curved shapes and the tip of the belt.

The apparatus with a polishing head is also inadequate, because the traditional Sattler has always "black" and "Brown" leather, he needs so always 2 machines or 2 polishing heads. One for Brown and one for black, because black leather is processed very often at the Sattler.

May also be that waxes for the edges are, I've never used this. I dekne already that this inventions are of leather craftsmen have learned the craft itself and which do not know the old methods.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]

Post 1 .........Edges Polishing.

Hi Guys..............

So that edges polishing... I will try it if I can't describe with my English((-:

I actually thought that was still widely known.

So, if one makes the belt with 2 layers and has sewn so it grinds today the edges often using a grinding machine. For example, I often use this one...

http://www.westerntool.com/Makita-1-1-8-inch-x-21-inch-vs-belt-sander.html

He can handle well in the vise clamp.

Earlier, you made this work but with the "shards" (glass shards).

You took a piece of window glass, and cut it to size with the glass cutter into small pieces so 6 x 3 cm.

Cut the glass there but only an edge that cuts really well, that is the "lower". Because the "top" of it carved a using a glass cutter is of course no longer intact and so also not sharp.

With the sharp side of the glass is now pulled off the double strap leather edge and equalised, - beautiful flat made.

This one stretches the straps in the stitching horse and pulling the glass at a slight angle com light pressure on the edge of the leather.

You will see that the glass edge is very sharp and well cuts away the leather, without that you damaged the belt or embrasures makes immediately recognize how the angle must be, you will become.

Editing makes a smoother edge with the glass as it is possible with the machine.

Greeting

Walter

[walter roth]



Hi guys... Post 2 Edges Polishing.

So, if you now well prepared the edges, so it tints it.

I used to do this so far still colors from Spain, ...die 20 years but can't get...)))-:

But, the called "Teinture française" was produced in Spain.

This color was mixed on Almond öel basis and she was extremely good. In other words, you could color black edges and they wear on white fabric without that she dyed off.

They existed in many colors. Titled, there's still a color, but it has to do more with the earlier nothing.

Today I am using almost none more oil dye as you know them well, and because I have the Spanish only for very special.

After the color, take edges gloss and pulls the belt through a piece of cloth made of thick canvas it is holding in his hand. So 5-10 times what they do.

Edges shine as I mostly use it to this day, it is unfortunately something that no longer exists.

It was a loose bone glue. That is, he was succeeded as hot glue with a liquid so you cold always could use him if you wanted to. What was the solvent, I don't know that.

Earlier, you often use "Gum", a tree resin which was resolved to an adhesive

German: http://de.wikipedia..../Gummi_arabicum

English: http://commons.wikim....org/wiki/File: Gomma_arabica.png

Rubber Gum Arabic can dissolve in water and is actually a glue.

If he is more diluted, called it here at the Saddlers just "Rubber water", and used it as a edge gloss.

Easier you did it with hot glue or bone glue as you used it since ancient times already.

I used to be always the old glue plates from old stock. The old plates are somehow better than the new glue beads, but the difference is maybe more in the good ratio of glue to the water.

To make bone glue, you need a glue pot.

Here the modern version with thermostat.

http://www.deffner-J...MIT-Deckel.html

http://www.Kleelux.d...ilings/LEIM.htm

Bone glue in Pearl today...

http://www.Kleelux.d...ilings/LEIM.htm

Earlier in plates...

http://www.eBay.de/I...=item58a57ed963

http://www.eBay.de/I...=item53fe1642fc

Here something to do how to process bone glue in German language, there are also in English.

http://www.lederkram...hp?go_to_this=/ category.php? cat_ID = 885 & anchor = undefined

So, bone glue in sheet form it shatters into small pieces and place them in the pot with water. The water should barely cover the pieces and leave there some time it until they become soft. It is like with the gelatin in the cakes make... ((- )

Then the whole thing on "warm", "do not cook", but to the whole thing will be only liquid. In addition, the pot of glue in a "Bain-Marie" has to be heated. So the pot in a larger pot with water to and then on top of the stove.

That is as far as you must check only whether it is liquid enough. If not simply some more water. It should be beautifully fluid but not as thin as water.

The glue pots today keep bone glue at approx. 60-65 ° of hours and you can always work. The Sattler it must be but just so hot that he remains pretty liquid.

The old models have a small burner with alcohol or even petroleum down.

Where you must regulate itself with the wick and flame height.

The glue were the Lederkannte apply and shine with a rag.

So take the Riemern immediately by the hand with the cloth.

He will be leaving after working to cool the bone glue, ever to thick to a "jelly-like" mass.

Simply heat the next time and possibly some more water.

You can however not forever keep the glue, it begins to smell and rotting.

The new today are as but less tricky, they were produced much cleaner as you made it earlier.

If there are some "Glycerin" it lasts longer and is a little smoother.

Oh yeah, warm bone glue in the copper or aluminium pot, because otherwise he is dark and that's not good in brown leather. Bone-glue reacts with iron and turns dark.

And Bone-glue smells sometimes somewhat strictly, but usually only at the old plates glues, today are very clean, but what brings no benefits to the application, old glues were just a little different.

Bone glue edges are, if one has learned it even the most beautiful that exists.

So if not hope that suffices, it writes, then I'll make time a prescription with grams and liters and Aufweichen time, cooking time, etc.

I've never written it down, but always only just made the wrist...((-:

Greeting

Walter

Edited October 22, 2013 by walter roth