Tools Of A Swiss Sattler

[Sona]

Ja, ich schau nochmal. Tut mir Leid, dass ich das alle etwas verzögert habe, bei mir läuft in den letzten Wochen einfach sehr viel drunter und drüber... morgen weiß ich wohl mehr und wird mich dann nochmal melden.
Ich meld mich bei euch dann auch nochmal wegen nem Treffen. Die Zeit verrinnt grad wie im Fluge ^^.

[simontuntelder]

How do you guys keep your tools free of rust or simple tarnish?

Most recommendations go towards using grease or oil, but I'm pretty certain that it'll stain the leather.

[Trox]

Keep it dry and polished.

[25b]

I wax my tools (paste wax like used on cars) and it seems to help a bit...

[walter roth]

Hi Simon...

This is the reason why all my tools are finely polished. The finer the surface even less quick forms rust.

But I shine just after ...sobald is stains show, and it fats up easily.

It has rubbed off earlier hands with alum craftsmen who had strong hand welding.

"Alum" is the tanning substance used for White leather, White Leather things the soldiers of Napolens, etc.

Wax used in museums to protect metal objects such as armour against rust, which is much more effective as fat, but it's only good if you never touch it.

By the way, who in leather or fabric something not good to work goes (cover with fabric or something like that), so you can try it with silicone oil, so with silicone spray from the spray can. This is no stains and makes slippery thick fabrics.

Greetings

Walter

[simontuntelder]

Thanks for the advice. I need to work more on my tool maintenance. Basically I still miss some basic tools for doing that.


AND thank you Walter for the info on the awl shaping/sharpening. I took some of my awls and I decided to work on them. The first one I ruined because I removed too much material from the blade, however the other three were quite succesful.

What I'm experiencing is that the "exit hole" from the awl is much easier to control and that creates a neater and more consistent stitch. But it's probably something that I'm the only one noticing.

[walter roth]

Hallo Simon

Ich freue mich immer wenn mein Ratschläge etwas genutzt haben.

Und ganz richtig, für eine gute Naht ist die Rückseite ....sehr .....sehr wichtig. Sie sollte im Idealfall fast so gerade wie die Vorderseite sein.

Und natürlich, wenn die Ahle richtig geschliffen ist, sticht sie viel regelmässiger. Denn, wenn eine zu spitze Ahle auf der vorderen Seite schon falsch einsticht, ist auf der Rückseite der Fehler noch viel grösser, ........der Abweichung beim Einstechen wird nach hinten noch vergrössert.

Ist die Spitze aber etwas rund und scharf geschliffen, kann der Fehler beim Stechen etwas nachkorrigiert werden. Die Ahle lässt sich durch den seitlichen Druck über den Ahlengriff etwas führen. Das geschieht beim geübten Näher ganz automatisch.

Gruss

Walter

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Hi Simon

I'm always happy when my advices have used something.

And that's right, for a good seam, the back is very, very important. It should be almost as straight as the front ideally.

And of course, if the awl is well done, it stands out much more regularly. Because, if one already wrong stands up to sharp awl on the front page, it comes out much worse on the back, ...der is increased failed the piercing.

The tip is slightly round and sharp, can failed in a playoff to be corrected slightly. The awl through the lateral pressure via the awl handle something lead.

I hope this is understandable... with my bad English...))) -:

Greetings

Walter

[simontuntelder]

I hope it's OK that I ask a general leather related question in this thread. Some of the most knowledgable people on this forum is following this thread.

I quite often make small leather goods which are folded - and often I need to put in a small groove to get a tighter bend.

What tools did the old time saddlers use to cut a groove?

I've been using my mom's old lino cutter which I sharpened a lot. It works fine, but I would like to know if there's something better that will give more consistency.

And please don't recommend the Tandy U or V gouge. That tool is terrible.

[Trox]

Hi Simon, adjustable V gouges has been around for many years. I cannot date the tool, but for sure before 2WWW. CS Osbore # 128 is such tool I use, then I follow up on each side of the V gouge with an french edger. I remove material on each side so the leather will fold easier. The V gouge only do half the job, you got to follow up with a french edger or simmilar tool to remove enough material. (make the gouge wider).

On light weight leather you can also the gouge with a normal edge beveler. You fold the leather over the edge of your working table with the flesh side out. Then you run your edge bevler over the bend and it will create the gouge. This method its safer on light weight leather.

Tor

[simontuntelder]

Well, if the CS Osborne is better than the Tandy version, which I hope it is, then that might be the solution.

Can you guys recommend a good maker french edge skiver?

The leather that I want to put a groove in is 1.8 to 2.5 in thickness.

I use very small edge bevelers (0 and 1s) and I tried, but none of them would cut a groove.