Adler 20-7 - Parts

[VanRhodes]

I recently purchased an Adler 20-7 machine(will be delivered next week). Quite old, but fully functioning. Although I do expect I will have to fix it up and do some minor modifications to suit my needs. I know most(or all) if you guys are working in leather so I'm probably a little bit of an outsider as I only work with nylon and I'll be using it for heavy sewing in webbing of different sorts and thicknesses.

Im hoping you guys could help me out a little here as I was wondering about sourcing spare parts such as presser feet and also if the Adler 20 class is compatible with parts from e.g the Singer 7 Class machines. I'm planning on building or purchasing a new table and also replacing the 380v clutch motor with an 800w Servo. Unfortunantly I dont have alot of pics to show off at the moment, but if any of you guys want a look I'd be happy to snap a couple once I get it next week.

Regards,

[Trox]

I recently purchased an Adler 20-7 machine(will be delivered next week). Quite old, but fully functioning. Although I do expect I will have to fix it up and do some minor modifications to suit my needs. I know most(or all) if you guys are working in leather so I'm probably a little bit of an outsider as I only work with nylon and I'll be using it for heavy sewing in webbing of different sorts and thicknesses.

Im hoping you guys could help me out a little here as I was wondering about sourcing spare parts such as presser feet and also if the Adler 20 class is compatible with parts from e.g the Singer 7 Class machines. I'm planning on building or purchasing a new table and also replacing the 380v clutch motor with an 800w Servo. Unfortunantly I dont have alot of pics to show off at the moment, but if any of you guys want a look I'd be happy to snap a couple once I get it next week.

Regards,

Hej Sverige, I am sorry, but it will be hard to find new part and presser feet`s. The machine is obsolete. Check with Thomas Brinkhoff head of spare parts DA for any available parts or custom made part. I do not think any Singer parts will fit, but i cannot be sure. I did see two machines for sale as "garden art" 1000,- NOK some years ago. I can try to find the add if its still on the web and inform you if you are interested. What kind of 800W servo motor, Efka or Ho Sing?

Tor

[VanRhodes]

I really havent decided as to what engine it will be, probably something generic that I pick up on ebay or similar just to try it out. I guess I'll have to look into manufacturing any parts that I may need by myself then.

Please do let me know if you find any of them again, as long as its not problem for you.

[Trox]

I really havent decided as to what engine it will be, probably something generic that I pick up on ebay or similar just to try it out. I guess I'll have to look into manufacturing any parts that I may need by myself then.

Please do let me know if you find any of them again, as long as its not problem for you.

Hi,

I will look in to it. Please post a picture of your machine, then I might be able to help you with something that fit`s. The big and clumsy foot is the problem with these machines. The information I get about your machine is; its made for sewing polishing wheels and have a high lift of 40 mm. It also have a wheel gear (gear speed reducer). It comes with an attachment for sewing circular movements. This might been taken off, but originally it came like that. You have been lucky it had that high needle lift (40 mm. if its a subclass 7 and 7a), most of the class 20 subclasses only had 16 mm lift.

The reason I asked about the motor was because you wrote "a 800w servo motor", not many motors are that powerful. Normally they are from 400 to 600 w, expensive high end system servos has some more power. These are very expensive, I have one who cost about 1000 $ (German Efka 1550- 321 control box, like the one on the Adler 120 picture). You can buy a good Chinese servo motor from 110 to 200 $, I have a Cobra 220 with 600w http://www.leatherma...php?category=22 (145 $) .These motors cost about 75 $ in shipping from LA (USA) to Scandinavia, I just bought one for a friend a couple of days ago, so the info is up to date. When your machine have a gear on the hand wheel this will be more than strong enough, you do not need any extra speed reducer (like they use on the big 441 clones; Cobra 4 and Cowboy 4500).

I will attach some pictures (from my sewing machine folder) of the class 20 and the successor the 120. I guess the 120 use the same foot as yours, parts for this machine is till available (German custom made and therefor extremely expensive, they might also be avaiable from DA to a normal price)

The first two pictures is from Finn.no , these was for sale very cheap and was standing outside as garden decoration in Norway. PM sent about the add. is sent.

Tor

Edited August 17, 2013 by Trox

[VanRhodes]

Hey,

Yeah, the seller mentioned the machine had been previously used in service for manufacturing polishing disks up until a few years ago and I would get it complete with stand, 380v motor and addon work table with the attachment. He also mentioned the machine had been modified by a company in Denmark although I dont know what kind of modifications they did. Once I get the machine I'll do a thorough inspection and take a couple of pictures of it all for you. Shouldnt take more than a couple of days.

The 800w motor I spoke about is a generic chinese servo I spotted on ebay for $145 or something in that area. Granted it's chinese and might not be up to par compared to the quality Efka's, but then again this machine wont be running 24/7/365 so I'm sure it'll be good enough for my needs.

[VanRhodes]

I got the 20-7 this thursday and I was surprised to see the size of this machine and its needles, Its huge and built like a tank. I did get some pictures of it for you guys as well. The feed for this machine is quite interesting and I intend to manufacture a new set of presser feet, more suitable for the kind of sewing I intend to use it for.

More images in these links as I didnt want to spam the thread with large images in case there's someone on a slower line.

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-2.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-3.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-4.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-5.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-6.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-7.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-8.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-9.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-10.jpg

http://genocideinc.com/adler20-7/Adler20-7-11.jpg

[Singermania]

HI the Adler 2 and 20 are slightly stretched versions of the 7 class. Many of the parts are the same, ie same shuttle and bobbin, same feet, same needle system and so on. They look slightly different to say a 7-33, but you'll find the front end is pretty close to the 7-10. I've found this before when looking at Adler and Durkopp, they can seem different then when you really look at the diverse Singer range you will see one that matches more closely.

[VanRhodes]

Hi,

From what I've learned since I got this machine -much thanks to Trox- it seems the Singer 7 Class is largely based on the Adler 20 class machines. Some parts are in fact the same or similar and there seems to be some level of compatibility between the two machines. E.g the Adler 20-7 I purchased has a Singer shuttle race as well as Singer shuttle. I am currently working on a new table and mount for this machine and will soon be ordering a new motor and also toothed timing belt and pulleys.

[Singermania]

Hi, here are the Adler 20 series operator and parts manuals....

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Manuals_Adler/Manual_Adler_20.pdf

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Parts_Books_Adler/20.pdf

Regards Steve

[VanRhodes]

Thanks Steve! I actually emailed Tomas Brinkoff @DA about the manual for the 20 class wich he kindly dug up and scanned for me and I believe that is the one you linked to.

I havent had alot of time to work on the machine lately but did get a couple of spools of thread in last week. Some #5, #6 and #8 cord. I had previously had some concerns regarding the cycle of the machine and thought it seemed as if everything was going backwards and now that I threaded the machine and tried to sew it off, my concerns were confirmed. Spinning the extra hand wheel towards me to cycle the machine(as instructed by the seller) cycled the cam in the opposite direction while the feed dogs were going in the right direction. This means the tensioning cycle of the thread take up lever is working backwards and its not tensioning properly, leaving a big loop of thread in the shuttle.

This got me a little bit concerned, but also got me thinking so just to try I reversed the rotation on the extra handwheel and tried to sew it off and to my surprise, the stitch was perfect. However, the feed was in the opposite direction, feeding towards me. Once again, I was a bit concerned about what I had purchased. Now, the machine doesnt have a reverse per-se, but I figured I Could try to unscrew the cover plate for the stitch dial adjuster and dial it all the way up to the top and see what happens. Turns out, this made the machine feed in the right direction, so I put the plate back(upside down) and the machine is now feeding as its supposed to and its doing pretty nice stitches as well. Its missing some stitches though wich most likely is due to the timing being slightly off and but I'm not sure how to adjust the timing of the shuttle race in relation to the needle on an oscillating hook machine, and I was hoping any of you gurus would be able to point me in the right direction?

With the lack of available service manuals, I'm refering to the Adler 120 class manual for information on timing. According to the manual, the lower edge of the hook shall align with the upper edge of the needle eye when the needle is 7mm(or 8mm, depending on model), past the lowest position of the needle. This is the state illustrated in the above picture. As you can see the hook is about 3mm to far advanced in its cycle to properly catch the thread and I was hoping any of you guys could help out here. The shuttle, shuttle drive and shuttle race has been replaced with a Singer unit by the previous owners(for some reason).