Guitar Strap With Laced Edges

[geckostraps]

I want to try making a guitar strap with a laced edge like these

.

My confusion is, this lacing goes right to the edge. Right where my stitching would go.

HELP......

[Cyberthrasher]

The lacing is a replacement for the stitching. Both are meant to hold the structure together, but the lacing is just more decorative.

[geckostraps]

The lacing is a replacement for the stitching. Both are meant to hold the structure together, but the lacing is just more decorative.

So then would the lacing go through the back/lining as well?

How would that feel on your shoulder?

Cyberthasher I've seen your Etsy page before.

Very nice!!!

What do you use on the straplock holes?

[Cyberthrasher]

Yes, it goes through the lining. You don't really feel it. The lace isn't that thick if done cleanly.

For the strap locks I use a hole punch that matches the diameter of the strap lock cylinder. It varies based on the brand.

[geckostraps]

Yes, it goes through the lining. You don't really feel it. The lace isn't that thick if done cleanly.

For the strap locks I use a hole punch that matches the diameter of the strap lock cylinder. It varies based on the brand.

Thanks for the info.

I will try one this weekend.

Have you ever done a laced strap?

What kind or size lace do I need?

[Cyberthrasher]

If you want a small lacing profile, 1/8" lace will be it - but that will be a lot of lace. The example you have here is using 1/4", which fills things out nicely and looks good with a large item like a strap. It just depends on the look you want. In either situation, Kangaroo is always going to be the strongest lace to use and among the better looking. If you get a high grade of calf lace, it should be fine. But, since the lace is structural, make sure it's not the cheap crap.

[geckostraps]

Ok... Last question.

What should I use to make the holes?

The gal at Tandy said to just use a hole punch......

I was thinking something like this.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/3052-00.aspx

[Bob Blea]

I would recommend something more like this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/chisels/88041-533.aspx

It makes a angled slit instead of the round holes of the punch you referenced above. I just prefer the slits to the round holes, but it is a matter of preference. IMO the angled slits look cleaner.

Bob

[Cyberthrasher]

Yes, use what Bob said, or the 4 prong version. There are 2 rules of thumb when it comes to slit vs. hole in lacing. First one, that doesn't get used very often is "round holes are for round lace and straight holes are for flat lace". The other more important one (meaning "go by this one" ), a slit is more likely to tear out under pressure, so don't use it for structural lacing that will be placed under load. Guitar straps and other light wear items (like wallets and belts) will be fine with a slit and look a lot cleaner. You want to use holes on stuff like saddle-bags or seats where all the weight will be supported by the lace. I also use holes for Mexican Round Braid lacing (which is done with flat lace) because of the amount of times you go through the hole. It's easier to lace and fills out the hole nicely.

So, to sum it up, use a lacing chisel to match the size of your lace so that you have clean slits to give a nice professional look.

[geckostraps]

So I went with a Kodiak lace. Thats what the local Tandy store told me to use. 5/32"

I started at the tip and worked my way down each side.

I missed a hole on the right. At one point, half way down the left, the lace broke.

I had to improvise a splice.

It seems when I stared down the right side, the lace seemed...thinner.

Not as consistent as it was on the left.

It took me about 4 hours to lace the whole thing.

Man... theres got to be an easier way......

I'm gonna try one more with some conchos

[Cyberthrasher]

It took me about 4 hours to lace the whole thing.

Man... theres got to be an easier way......

NOPE!! Consider the size of the product. Good lacing takes time, just like good stitching. That's why I don't do a lot of laced/stitched guitar straps. It's a labor of love that should be valued accordingly and most people don't want to pay the price. 4 hours lacing would be an additional $80 on my product. It takes me 5 hours to hand stitch a guitar strap and that's an additional $100. Very few are willing to pay for it because they don't put as much value on it, so they go with a basic single layer tooled strap instead.

Now, some tips on your lacing. First off, watch the angle so they all match up nice and cleanly. That way you don't get different spacing and stuff. For splicing, do a dry splice by tucking the lace in between your leather. Steps 6 - 8 here will show you how. This is for double-loop lacing, but the concept is the same regardless of the lacing style you choose. If you're not doing 2 pieces of leather laced together, cut a slit (or pocket) in the edge to make two layers to tuck the lace into.

http://www.kingsmere...com/page96.html

Oh yeah, and don't listen to what the folks at the Tandy store tell you to buy. The whole company is only out for profits and many of their people are only experienced in what they're told - meaning most have never worked with leather outside the store. It's a shame considering everything they've done in the past for our field.

Edited September 25, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[geckostraps]

NOPE!! Consider the size of the product. Good lacing takes time, just like good stitching. That's why I don't do a lot of laced/stitched guitar straps. It's a labor of love that should be valued accordingly and most people don't want to pay the price. 4 hours lacing would be an additional $80 on my product. It takes me 5 hours to hand stitch a guitar strap and that's an additional $100. Very few are willing to pay for it because they don't put as much value on it, so they go with a basic single layer tooled strap instead.

Now, some tips on your lacing. First off, watch the angle so they all match up nice and cleanly. That way you don't get different spacing and stuff. For splicing, do a dry splice by tucking the lace in between your leather. Steps 6 - 8 here will show you how. This is for double-loop lacing, but the concept is the same regardless of the lacing style you choose. If you're not doing 2 pieces of leather laced together, cut a slit (or pocket) in the edge to make two layers to tuck the lace into.

http://www.kingsmere...com/page96.html

Oh yeah, and don't listen to what the folks at the Tandy store tell you to buy. The whole company is only out for profits and many of their people are only experienced in what they're told - meaning most have never worked with leather outside the store. It's a shame considering everything they've done in the past for our field.

Thanks for the input.

I don't see myself making alot of these. I just wanted to try it.

The Kingsmere site looks like it has alot of info.

Unfortunately, Tandy is the only local place I know of to get products.

The woman there is either EXTREMELY helpful, or not at all

[Cyberthrasher]

Springfield Leather is a good choice. I'm all for buying local, but if the quality/help isn't there, then it's off to someone else online. I don't even have a Tandy local, so it's all online for me. Kevin and the girls at Springfield will treat you right. Just give them a call and ask questions. They're always there to help.

[geckostraps]

Springfield Leather is a good choice. I'm all for buying local, but if the quality/help isn't there, then it's off to someone else online. I don't even have a Tandy local, so it's all online for me. Kevin and the girls at Springfield will treat you right. Just give them a call and ask questions. They're always there to help.

I've used Springfield numerous times. J'ne was very helpful.

I stand corrected. Tandy told me to use Deertan lace

Heres another question.

In the third picture of my original post. How do you achieve that two-tone finish.

Black on the outside, redish tone in the middle?

[Cyberthrasher]

That one's hard to tell exactly since the picture is so small (I suggest using the forum's picture attaching features). But, that looks similar to another strap maker I've seen a lot of. Most of what he does his block dyed and resisted. For a strap like that, he probably stamped the letters, block dyed the "reddish" color, and then went over the perimeter pattern with a brush - at least that's what I would do with a basic idea like that, but I wouldn't do one like that. I've actually seen a video of his work before where he block dyes everything. That said, he gets some good color contrast, but other than that I'm not a fan of his work (assuming it's the same guy I've viewed before).

Now, how I would do it.....

AIRBRUSH. It's a very powerful tool for dying and you'll get ooohs and ahhhs all day from it. Apply your light color, then go around the perimeter with a darker color. Here's a good example I have uploaded of a cool airbrush fade job. This was actually the first time I had ever used one.

Edited September 25, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[geckostraps]

Third attempt. I discovered a big problem with the first two.

I was using a 1/8" punch, and 5/32" lace.

I bought a 5/32" punch and the results were MUCH better.

Edited October 3, 2013 by geckostraps

[Cyberthrasher]

The lacing is looking a lot better. You'll want to treat the tip like a corner and go through the holes there at least a couple times each to try to make it look more uniform. Cut of a practice scrap that matches the shape of your tip and give it a few shots to make it look nice. Another thing you can do, which will help the overall feel of the lacing, is to start at the other end (where you have more of a flat tip) and then come down one side and stop at the bottom tip. Then, go back to the other end, and come down the other side, ending both at the same spot. That will make your lace symmetrical so it all points in the same direction.

[geckostraps]

Great tips. Thanks