Second Holster With A Few Changes

[vaalpens]

I just completed my second holster and tried a few new things. Following are the steps I followed this time:

1) Included reinforcement piece (new)

2) Stitch before forming.

3) Use stitching chisels to punch stitching holes (new)

4) Dye after forming

5) Use gum tragacanth for burnishing edges (new)

6) Apply netsfoot oil after dye (new)

7) Finish with leather balm with atom wax (new)

So I have tried a few new things and I am happy with the results. I am still trying to find the correct thread to use with the stitching chisel.

Any comments regarding the result will be appreciated.

[mlapaglia]

The stitching looks good. If you used an awl you wouldnt have an issue with the thread looking like its too small. The holes close up with an awl.

Over all it looks very nice. I question the lack of support around the trigger guard. In my opinion you need enough leather around the trigger guard so you can run a stitch line. The way it is now if the user were to take a tumble there is a good chance the gun would come out of the holster due to the lack of closure around the trigger guard.

You did a good job. Keep up the work.

Michael

[vaalpens]

The stitching looks good. If you used an awl you wouldnt have an issue with the thread looking like its too small. The holes close up with an awl.

Over all it looks very nice. I question the lack of support around the trigger guard. In my opinion you need enough leather around the trigger guard so you can run a stitch line. The way it is now if the user were to take a tumble there is a good chance the gun would come out of the holster due to the lack of closure around the trigger guard.

You did a good job. Keep up the work.

Michael

Thanks for the nice comments and the suggestion regarding using an awl. I will have to try it on a smaller project to see I will be able to keep the holes uniform in shape using the awl. The holster is purely my design I am experimenting with. I left the trigger intentionally open with no cant just for a quicker draw for me. This holster will probably only be used as a range holster. I will include stitching around the trigger guard at some time when I do my first Avenger style holster. Another option will also be to keep the open trigger guard and incorporate a thumb-break that should also make it more secure.

[katsass]

FWIW I agree with what Michael said. If, however, you are not too familiar with the use of a harness awl, it can be frustrating. You can utilize a drill press and drill the holes for your stitching - with this caveat: drill DINKY holes (3/64") then go back with your awl and open them enough for you to get a needle through. When I teach someone to stitch (notice I do not refer to it as 'sewing') I have them groove, mark with an overstitch wheel, drill some holes and then start to open them up with the awl For this last step, I have them place their project in a lacing/stitching pony. They learn to hold the awl in proper relationship to the leather, and be able to feel the thing go through the dead cow skin., Finally, after some practice, they only need the marking from the overstitch to continue on with just the awl. Some feel that this is 'cheating', but I have seen too many budding leatherworkers give up on stitching because their stitch holes are so uneven that after taking all the time to do the work -- it ends up looking like crap. It's my opinion that the holes should be just large enough for one to force the needle through -- with the aid of a pair of smooth-jawed pliers. I also feel that one should feel good about their work as early on as possible. As to your design, The lack of stitching at the trigger guard is a real problem, range holster or not.. I feel that it is necessary for that area to be stitched no less than 1/2 the way up the trigger guard so as to preclude looseness (that is already evident) of the gun in the holster. If you look at your rig, you can see that, although you have plenty of dead cow skin around your shooter, the area that holds the gun in place is ONLY the area from the front of the trigger guard to the muzzle of your shooter . NOW, look at the area in front of the rear sight -- a pretty good chunk of space between the shooter and your leather, (way too damned much IMO) this, and the fact that your nice, tight wet molding will NOT hold up very long with the gun moving about inside, and you can see the problem. You have a good design, pretty well constructed BUT it does need a bit of tweaking here and there to be a really good, functional holster. This is just some observations from a grumpy old guy, and in no way am I attempting to diminish your effort, so take from it what you will ---, after all it didn't cost you a penny. Mike

Edited September 25, 2013 by katsass

[vaalpens]

FWIW I agree with what Michael said. If, however, you are not too familiar with the use of a harness awl, it can be frustrating. You can utilize a drill press and drill the holes for your stitching - with this caveat: drill DINKY holes (3/64") then go back with your awl and open them enough for you to get a needle through. When I teach someone to stitch (notice I do not refer to it as 'sewing') I have them groove, mark with an overstitch wheel, drill some holes and then start to open them up with the awl For this last step, I have them place their project in a lacing/stitching pony. They learn to hold the awl in proper relationship to the leather, and be able to feel the thing go through the dead cow skin., Finally, after some practice, they only need the marking from the overstitch to continue on with just the awl. Some feel that this is 'cheating', but I have seen too many budding leatherworkers give up on stitching because their stitch holes are so uneven that after taking all the time to do the work -- it ends up looking like crap. It's my opinion that the holes should be just large enough for one to force the needle through -- with the aid of a pair of smooth-jawed pliers. I also feel that one should feel good about their work as early on as possible. As to your design, The lack of stitching at the trigger guard is a real problem, range holster or not.. I feel that it is necessary for that area to be stitched no less than 1/2 the way up the trigger guard so as to preclude looseness (that is already evident) of the gun in the holster. If you look at your rig, you can see that, although you have plenty of dead cow skin around your shooter, the area that holds the gun in place is ONLY the area from the front of the trigger guard to the muzzle of your shooter . NOW, look at the area in front of the rear sight -- a pretty good chunk of space between the shooter and your leather, (way too damned much IMO) this, and the fact that your nice, tight wet molding will NOT hold up very long with the gun moving about inside, and you can see the problem. You have a good design, pretty well constructed BUT it does need a bit of tweaking here and there to be a really good, functional holster. This is just some observations from a grumpy old guy, and in no way am I attempting to diminish your effort, so take from it what you will ---, after all it didn't cost you a penny. Mike

This has been a great learning experience for me with all these great comments I have received. Using an awl will be a work in progress for me, and is something I will have to work on. With my first attempts I drilled the holes, but used a 1/16" bit. I felt I did not have enough leather between the holes, which could be a strength issue. The current retention on the gun is very good but I can see that it could loosen up after some use. Your comment about the space between the rear sight and leather is correct and I did not realize it until I looked at the picture again. Stitching around the trigger guard should help with a tighter and more consistent fit in the rear sight area an overall better retention. I am trying for a minimalistic and clean look with not too much wasted leather. That is probably why I prefer the avenger type holster over the pancake, and even less than an avenger looks better to me. The next holster will definitely have some stitching around the trigger guard. I just need to decide if i want to expand on my current idea with only the back belt loop, or maybe go with a avenger style holster.

Thanks again for the great feedback. It is an honor receiving this detailed feedback from katsass.

[katsass]

OK, the most common spacing is 6 inch per inch -- ie. a number 6 overstich wheel. If you are planning to get such a thing, get the single wheel style rather than the one with interchangeable wheels. I feel that the most common and universally used holster is the pouch style. . After all, it has been in use for more than a hundred years - I try to build them whenever possible. As long as the integral belt loop is as wide as you can make it, it holds your shooter in as close as damned near anything else. I like to think that I'm very much a traditionalist in my designs, so I do try to make them fit damned near everything I come across. As to Avenger style holsters, I make them, Here is one as an example. Notice that my overlay piece is much smaller than many. That's because it's only there to reinforce the mouth of the rig - not some kind of accoutrement, although many use it as such without understanding it's true use.

Edited September 25, 2013 by katsass

[vaalpens]

OK, the most common spacing is 6 inch per inch -- ie. a number 6 overstich wheel. If you are planning to get such a thing, get the single wheel style rather than the one with interchangeable wheels. I feel that the most common and universally used holster is the pouch style. . After all, it has been in use for more than a hundred years - I try to build them whenever possible. As long as the integral belt loop is as wide as you can make it, it holds your shooter in as close as damned near anything else. I like to think that I'm very much a traditionalist in my designs, so I do try to make them fit damned near everything I come across. As to Avenger style holsters, I make them, Here is one as an example. Notice that my overlay piece is much smaller than many. That's because it's only there to reinforce the mouth of the rig - not some kind of accoutrement, although many use it as such without understanding it's true use.

I think I am also a more traditionalist and prefer the old school type holsters. I actually have a #6 overstich wheel, but used a 1/16# drill bit, which is too big. I will need to get a 3/64" bit and try it again. My initial design for the last holster was actually a small overlay piece, but I wasn't sure if it would actually be a good reinforcement, or just look like one. I settled on the bigger overlay since it looked to my eyes that it flowed better and matched the lines at the bottom of my holster.

Do you have a picture of one of your traditional pouch style holsters? I would love to see a well crafted pouch holster, and obviously get some design ideas.

[katsass]

I sent a few pics. Check your private message. Mike