Make Your Own Messenger Bag

[MadMorbius]

Can you talk about the process of sewing a double gusset bag? I am interested in creating a two compartment messenger bag and I am sort of at a loss on how to approach the double gusset.

I'm sure Nigel can explain it better, but you do it the exact same way...instead of cutting out a single front and a single back piece plus pockets, cut two front pieces, and twice the gussets. Put the second of the "front" pieces in the middle between the gussets with the good side facing the front of the bag. Glue the front and rear gussets to the center piece, then lay out your stitches with the pricking iron...sew the center gusset first, then carry on as per the video.

For the strap I use a shield and tab that bridges the gusset and sews onto the center of each.

[kjmilligan]

I'm sure Nigel can explain it better, but you do it the exact same way...instead of cutting out a single front and a single back piece plus pockets, cut two front pieces, and twice the gussets. Put the second of the "front" pieces in the middle between the gussets with the good side facing the front of the bag. Glue the front and rear gussets to the center piece, then lay out your stitches with the pricking iron...sew the center gusset first, then carry on as per the video.

For the strap I use a shield and tab that bridges the gusset and sews onto the center of each.

Thanks for the advice! That is very helpful. In my conceptualization of the process, I've come across another problem though... Instead of a single center piece, I want to form it from two pieces of probably 4oz veg tan and have it as a central laptop compartment (pictured here). Additionally, I want to line that laptop compartment with wool felt, unfortunately adding to the thickness. This would mean that I will be sewing 2 gussets, 2 middle pieces and 2 layers of wool together, which I am picturing to be VERY thick. I am weary about skiving from the leather center piece or the gussets, because I want the bag to last. Any thoughts on this process? Thanks.

[MadMorbius]

In the attached he's using 4-5oz leather for the inside compartment and 7-8oz (probably) for the rest of the bag. So the two layers aren't that much bigger together than a single divider would be. If you're going to do something like this, note the extra inches required to sandwich something between the layers...Even more space if you use wool.

Lining the compartment with wool adds bulk and complexity that may not be required given the laptop section is already protected by the other compartments.

But if I were to do it, I'd glue/stitch the wool down to the two outer flaps, leaving 3/8" from the edge of the divider pieces (inset your wool 3/8" from the gusset edges) to avoid the extra thickness at the gusset seam.

OR, I'd run an accordian gusset on the inside (a second gusseted compartment inside the main bag).

[Ski]

To me it looks like braided polyester tigre thread but Nigel can confirm better than me. if it is, Ive seen people import it into the US via Abbey England

[MadMorbius]

Thanks Ski, I think you're right about the type. Would love to confirm the weight however