Reliable Msk-1541S

[mproberts]

Hello all - first post here, but have been lurking/reading for awhile. My wife is the creative side of sewing and now leather work. She is currently focused on leather hand-bags and some apparel. I'm the researcher side of things (engineer during the day) and really enjoy the electro-mechanical pieces and parts of her hobby.

We realized her existing hobby machine was not adequate for sewing leather, especially anything of thickness or multiple layers. We did play around briefly with a vintage Necchi that had a little more presser foot lift than her her main machine, but it needed work to simply stitch reliably, was not a walking foot, and would need a motor upgrade.

As we live in Rochester, NY we were somewhat limited in going out to a seller and testing, touching and seeing the options. Our options to visit a dealer and see a range of machines were Toronto, NYC or Pittsburgh - and although a good excuse for a fun weekend, we just couldn't fit it in. So we've done a lot of reading on our options for an upgrade, and this forum has been immensely helpful.

So we were back and forth on several machines and talked to several sellers. We reviewed the Consew CP206-R, Consew 206RB5, Juki DNU-1541S, Juki DU-1181N, etc. We had a few long conversations with a dealer in Pennsylvania and discussed prices and shipping and warranty/service, parts availability, etc.

Our high-level specs:

• Commercial, or near-commercial grade
  
• Walking-foot, single stitch
  
• High presser-foot height
  
• Servo Motor - ideally 3/4 horse (120v)
  
• Safety clutch
  
• Ideally a package from manufacturer (not pieced together)
  
• Interchangeable parts and options for feet and accessories
  

After all of that, we decided on the Reliable MSK-1541S. This is a knock-off of the Juki DNU-1541S I believe.

After all of the above, my general questions are around whether anyone here has any experience with Reliable or specifically their MSK-1541S? The price was very good comparatively and seems to come well equipped (SQ5000 servo motor, plywood-topped table, Light, etc).

Reliable web site for specs on head: (http://www.reliablec...tch/MSK-1541S_3)

Thanks for any thoughts, tips or advice here!

Edited February 22, 2014 by mproberts

[mproberts]

While not exactly on topic with my post above, I wanted to share a Thread/Needle chart I grabbed/modified that might be helpful to some of us beginners. Since we are new to this, I thought this might be appropriate here since buying a new machine and getting an understand of all the supporting bits is also important. Any corrections or clarifications to the chart below is appreciated!

[Wizcrafts]

The Reliable is a standard upholstery grade walking foot machine. As such, expect it to max out with #138 thread, possibly even as thick as #207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. It will sew up to 3/8 inches of material. If this meets your needs, you're good to go.

I see that you highlighted thread sizes 92 through 277 in the chart you posted. Do not try using #277 in that machine. It is not built to handle it.

[mproberts]

Thanks for the feedback. I believe she will be fine with the #138 thread as a max for what she is doing and plans to do.

How does the 3/8" max for material correlate to the vendor claim/spec foot lift of 9 mm (hand), 16 mm (knee)?

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the feedback. I believe she will be fine with the #138 thread as a max for what she is doing and plans to do.

How does the 3/8" max for material correlate to the vendor claim/spec foot lift of 9 mm (hand), 16 mm (knee)?

The "lift" of the hand lifter lever or knee, or floor pedal is not the same as the amount of material that can be sewn. All walking foot machines must lift at least 1/8 to 3/16 inches more than they can actually sew. This allows the feet to alternate up and down. In you case, that amount is 10 mm, or 3/8 inch.

The length of the needle and thickness of the feet determines the maximum thickness that can be sewn. If you exceed that limit, you end up with skipped stitches, or broken needles, or bent crank arms, or a broken thread guide on the bottom of the needle bar.

If the needle bar hits the presser foot in operation, it will get knocked out of time.

[mproberts]

That makes perfect sense! Thank you.

[mproberts]

So an interesting turn of events here. I won't share vendor names, but we went ahead and ordered the Reliable at a price of $1050 plus $150 to ship. What arrived is what appears to be a Juki DNU-1541S clone. And I mean maybe counterfeit? It does not look quite like the Reliable above, but exactly like a Juki DNU-1541S. The giveaway is the plate riveted to the front.

It says:

DNU-1541S

Juki Corporation

Made in Japan

MFG. No. (Blank)

So there is no serial number on the plate, and the tag looks different than the 1541 plates I see on the web. There are also no printed names on the casing like shown in both Reliable and Juki photos.

The whole thing came assembled, set up and tested. And the wife tested it out and it works very well. So we have a call in to the vendor to see what this is all about... The vendor does have a very large presence and has been great to work with. They said the price of $1050 was due to warehouse consolidation and we had picked a great time to buy. Anyone else run across (potentially) counterfeit machines?

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

So an interesting turn of events here. I won't share vendor names, but we went ahead and ordered the Reliable at a price of $1050 plus $150 to ship. What arrived is what appears to be a Juki DNU-1541S clone. And I mean maybe counterfeit? It does not look quite like the Reliable above, but exactly like a Juki DNU-1541S. The giveaway is the plate riveted to the front.

It says:

DNU-1541S

Juki Corporation

Made in Japan

MFG. No. (Blank)

So there is no serial number on the plate, and the tag looks different than the 1541 plates I see on the web. There are also no printed names on the casing like shown in both Reliable and Juki photos.

The whole thing came assembled, set up and tested. And the wife tested it out and it works very well. So we have a call in to the vendor to see what this is all about... The vendor does have a very large presence and has been great to work with. They said the price of $1050 was due to warehouse consolidation and we had picked a great time to buy. Anyone else run across (potentially) counterfeit machines?

I want to tread lightly here, but what, potentially is counterfeit about this machine? It was never stated up front that it was a genuine Juki DNU-1541S made in Japan. Are you inferring that this machine is not a genuine Reliable Corp. machine? What I'm saying is that this may well be the same machine from the same factory as the Reliable that is of course different the Japan made Juki DNU-1541S. And, by both appearance and even model number, I would think that it would only be assumed that this is a copy of the Juki original.

Pics?

[mproberts]

Pics attached. And please don't think I'm trying to cause a big stir - or call out any dealer. I will say this is not from any dealer I have seen mentioned on this site though.

Also - we are not unhappy, just curious what this actually is. We do not believe this is a unit from Reliable - at least based on the info we were given, and pics from the Reliable site.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I think the phrase 'Don't look a gift horse in the mouth' applies here. I think that looks like a good machine, and a good motor setup. I would not be surprised if this is a machine that Reliable sold before they changed their machines' frame. If that's the case, that's a good machine and a more than fair price.

Enjoy, seems like a nice setup.

Edited March 1, 2014 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Apart from the "made in Japan" on the label I cannot see a problem.

[Leather Guru]

anyone who wants to make bags should start with an arm type sewing machine , such as an Adler 269-373 or clone thereof . You are limitrd as to what you can do with a flat machine

[mproberts]

Thanks for the input and feedback all!

We did consider the arm type, but thought it might be limiting for all the other hobby work she wants to tackle - and thought this was a good compromise.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

The good thing about a cylinder bed machine is that you can build a flat bed attachment in less than an hour

Thanks for the input and feedback all!

We did consider the arm type, but thought it might be limiting for all the other hobby work she wants to tackle - and thought this was a good compromise.

[mproberts]

Now you tell me! Wait, I never asked (or researched) this here did I? : )

Anyway, we really appreciate all the help this forum has provided!

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Owning machines tends to be addictive and you will probably find need for another in the not too distant future

Now you tell me! Wait, I never asked (or researched) this here did I? : )

Anyway, we really appreciate all the help this forum has provided!

[mproberts]

Indeed. I restore vintage radios, TV's and hi-fi as a hobby and know all too well the addiction - and also have a penchant for old test equipment to support the hobby. But as sad and troubling as it is, watching the (American) TV show "Hoarders" on occasion helps keep me in check.

[Chapmaker]

My post is going to be way to late to offer any usable input on this issue to the original question, but thought I would, none-the-less, add my input for reference. I own a Reliable 1541S, and have for two or so years. The primary use is in making chaps, chinks, saddlebags and the like. I have made an occasional halter, and some saddle repair. The results are as follows:

Up to 1/4" leather, no problem at all. The machine has more than enough power, and this is generally where I work- below 1/4". On occasions, I will do a project that involves 3/8" (three layers of 9-10oz, for instance) with mixed results. If I split all the leather so there is little or no chance of going beyond this thickness, all is well. If, however, I am in a rush and allow this thickness to grow, I am going to have skipped stitches, and broken needles- again, it is not a power issue, but simple a capacity issue due to needle size and machine engineering (says I).

Overall- a great machine, used within the design limitations, and I would buy it again.

As for me, I am now looking for a second machine for the rare times I need to sew over the 3/8", and I am seriously considering a Cowboy CB3200, so feel free to give me your input.

Hope I have been helpful.

[mproberts]

I will report that my wife has been very happy with the DNU-1541S we bought. She's sewn up numerous leather garments (including a nice heavy weight leather bomber jacket for me!) and hasn't had a single issue.