questions on using eco flo highlighter

[sodapop]

i ordered some eco flo saddletan highlighter...i'm wanting to use it on some oak leaves & acorns...and wondering if theres any do's and don't's with it that i should know about first??...and whats the general process when using it...

as in apply highlighter, wipe off and then oil and seal??

i appreciate the help!!

darryl

[Leerwerker]

Yes, in its simplest form, you apply a liberal amount with a dauber or rag. Make sure it gets into all the tool impressions and then wipe it all off - do not let the hi-liter dry on the leather - I use a paper towel to wipe the excess off.

Wiping off with a damp cloth will get it lighter.

I am not sure if the same will work with the hi-liter, but with the new gel antique - if I want a darker application - I do not wipe any excess off - I just keep on working it around in circles until it is very even. I did the background of my anatomy study that way.

Hope this help!

  sodapop said:

i ordered some eco flo saddletan highlighter...i'm wanting to use it on some oak leaves & acorns...and wondering if theres any do's and don't's with it that i should know about first??...and whats the general process when using it...

as in apply highlighter, wipe off and then oil and seal??

[whinewine]

  sodapop said:

as in apply highlighter, wipe off and then oil and seal??

i appreciate the help!!

darryl

Since eco is water-based, I would be hesitant to use oil of any sort... I've always used either neatlac or super shene to seal it. Try it on scrap first, or use a water-based oil, like lexol??? THen seal...

good luck

russ

[bruce johnson]

Darryl,

Actually I think for me this is one fo the better products they have come out with. I used the old HiLliter some. I didn't like it because it was too dark. I used Leather Glow but it was too light. No, I this isn't about 3 bears or anything. I did without special colorants and only used a final sealer. I used to like Drake's X1 and rediscovered it was back - right before they took it off again.

I tried a few shades of the new HiLiter. I tried the coffee brown and it was bit too dark, the briar brown is my favorite. I use it a little differently than many do. I have cased my leather in lexol and others. I have NF oiled it. I have sealed it with a couple coats of LeatherSheen and let it dry. I used to like the way it looked right there. Now I take my briar brown and dilute it about 2 parts BB/1 part water in a squeeze bottle. I squeeze it out on a cellulose sponge cube and wipe it over the piece and squeeze a bit as I go. I want it to puddle just slightly in the cuts and low spots. I wipe over the high spots lightly to remove any up there. I leave the piece undisturbed and let it dry. I wipe on another coat of LeatherSheen to seal it. The sponge for the final LS application will slightly lift a bit of the dried HiLiter but not much. A guy who likes to clean an airbrush could use that for the final seal, I toss the sponge and cleanup is complete.

I tried it like I was told first. Resist/apply full strength, wipe off quickly/ wipe off that part that got over the edge/ do all the stitch line because some got in there in one place and won't come out/it all wiped out of a beadline and you have to reapply. Now if I get some in the stitchline it looks alright. The water gives me a chance to wipe over applications before it stains something I wish it didn't. There are a lot of people where finishing is religion, I like simple by the time I get to that.

The one experiment that did not work. I tried to mix the HiLiter with some LeatherSheen and come up with roll your own X1. It resembled Mountain Dew/Copenhagen spit.

[sodapop]

  Quote

The one experiment that did not work. I tried to mix the HiLiter with some LeatherSheen and come up with roll your own X1. It resembled Mountain Dew/Copenhagen spit.

definately don't what that bruce lol...i know exactly what that looks like since i used to chew cope & drink dew ;o)

thanks for all the input guys!!...it should get here tomorrow so i can play around with it abit...i was hesitant on the eco flo being water based...but i needed it fast and with tandy's...i get it the next day...because i have to have this shell case done before the weekend for the customer when early deer opens...

but thats definately reassuring bruce that you've been happy with it and have had good results...

darryl

Edited October 8, 2008 by sodapop

[Leerwerker]

  whinewine said:

Since eco is water-based, I would be hesitant to use oil of any sort... I've always used either neatlac or super shene to seal it. Try it on scrap first, or use a water-based oil, like lexol??? THen seal...

good luck

russ

Hi Russ,

Once the dye is dry, it is not relevant whether it was oil, spirit or water based when you applied it. All finishes can be used on the eco flo dyes once the leather is dry.

Hope this helps!