First Holster - Beretta 92Fs

[skootx]

First time making a holster. This is my second leather project, the first was a stacked knife sheath. I have since pulled this holster apart because the belt clip isn't strong enough. I can draw OK but it's a heavy gun and I feel like it moves around too much. I'll be doing action pistol type stuff but also carrying on hikes, so I wanted a removable retention strap. I'm happy with this part but not so much with the "patch" I used so the front snap wouldn't come in contact with the gun.. I found I need to get some thinner leather for that type of stuff, I'm using my one piece with is easily 10 oz. and the snaps require a lot of dremel-skyving to recess the seats.

I could use some ideas on finishing. I'm using Fiebing's USMC black dye, three coats buffed, then Tan Kote. Every little nick and scratch shows up, and I know some of that is due to semi gloss black finish revealing that. But is there a way to finish up the leather before dyeing? I don't like the Tan Kote either, it goes on very splotchy and uneven and doesn't take to being rubbed in. Any thoughts on an alternate?

Edited March 23, 2014 by skootx

[katsass]

From the old grump: First off, you sound as though you are trying to hang that shooter off your belt with just the belt clip to support it. I certainly hope that isn't the situation. However, what you have built is a left hand IWB holster. An IWB (inside the waistband) uses the clip AND your trousers belt to maintain the shooter in the proper location. For a right hand OWB holster (outside the waistband)hanging off your belt you need to build a belt loop into the rig. As to black dye - I gave that up long ago. I use vinegaroon, homemade and made by stuffing a gallon of vinegar with a pot load (as much as will dissolve in the liquid) of steel wool. Give it about two weeks to do the job. That stuff will turn your leather black all of the way through. Wear rubber gloves when messing with the stuff - it stains everything it touches. ALSO - do it outside lest you like sleeping with the dog, cat or any other critter she deems proper after her kitchen turns to s .... a real mess. The stuff doesn't come off. When dry, apply a coat of neatsfoot oil and leave the damned thing alone for at least overnight. There are a bunch of commercial finishes available, but I happen to use a 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow and water. Keep at it, after you get to the point that you can cut a straight line: stitch properly (get an overstitch tool - a #6 is about the correct size-- and use it!! It will evenly mark your stitch length and finish up your stitching), also get good at burnishing edges, you'll be really be on your way. Mike

P.S. You might get Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters" About 12$

Edited March 24, 2014 by katsass

[skootx]

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I thought the belt clip might hold it, but nope. Live and learn. I'm thinking now of creating a belt loop on the back. I'll be happy if I can at least make this functionally perfect, I'm doing a 4 day shooting class in late April. I expected this would be a prototype anyway, and I think with a tight fitting belt tunnel it will function well enough. Eventually I'll redo to get it looking good too.

I come at leatherwork from woodworking, so I figured the stuff I got was the equivalent of poly/stain, which it is. I'm much more inclined to handmixed shellacs and hand rubbed finishes, so I will certainly put your recipe to use.

Now, I did use an overstitch wheel, 5 holes per inch with a groove for the stitches. but you mentioned using that tool to "finish"... I only knew to use it for measuring. Can you elaborate?

Thanks!!!

Edited March 24, 2014 by skootx

[katsass]

OK, Case (moisten lightly) where you are going to stitch. Groove, then run the overstitch wheel in the groove to mark your stitches. Go to stitching. When COMPLETELY done pulling thread and needle, case again and run the overstitch right over (that's why it's called an OVERSTITCH) your perfectly spaced stitching, make sure to get one of the pointy goodies on the overstitch into where you punched the hole to accept your thread. Push down some on the wheel to even things out as you roll it along over all of your stitching.

I suggest you practice some on a bit of scrap - and get the book. Mike

Edited March 24, 2014 by katsass

[vaalpens]

I like what you have done with the retainer strap. They must be around, but this is the first time I have seen a strap with snaps on both ends of the strap to make it removable. It gives you the best of both worlds where you can use it for hiking or just a range holster, and then do action stuff without having a holster with a strap. i'll leave it up to the experts like Katsass ro give you some guidance since I still fall in that novice category.