Fiebing Pro Dye Problem

[DavidL]

Im using fiebings pro dye and I have troubles with paint bending and uneven dyeing. Out of the bottle angelus dyes work great and from my understanding is highly concentrated. So would diluted fiebings work? Im asking because there is always uneveness - does it work best diluted with denatured alcohol with 2 coats.

The dye also does not penetrated the leather - when i stabbed my awl through I can see the pink of the leather showing.

[Chief31794]

How are you applying the dye? If you are using a dauber or cloth or wool, then penetration will be medium, Spray with an air brush and the penetration will be light, if you dip dye which is the only way I use any dye the penetration will be complete and even. Thinning the dyes is done more for tint control, I normally cut all fiebings dyes except Pro Oil Black at 1:1 with denatured alcohol I have cut some of them up to 8:1 Alcohol to Dye for specific colors and tints.

Hope that helps,

Chief

[King's X]

What type of leather are you using? I use nothing but Oil dyes and some non oil Fiebing dyes. The only problem that I have had is with the Tan dye,which I ended up liking because it gives the leather the worn look. With some other colors, I have had to apply several coats when using a brush. I use Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig leather.

[DavidL]

SLC imported top grade tooling leather. Out the bottle with sheepskin rag and it makes the top layer feel like a plastic vinyl type feel. If i flex it the dye cracks, which is most likely the leather. With a different leather it still doesn't dye evenly - always there will be darker areas which come out pure black when i use royal blue for instances.

I think it comes down to how i apply the dye to the rag. Are you pouring the dye out and letting the sheepskin soak the dye?

Also once i use up my dye (may take a while) i may airbrush angelus acrylic anyone tried this before?

[iknowshaun]

Hi Chief31794, would you dip dye something even if it was diluted with denatured alcohol? Just wondering if the tint would be even because I've been thinking of doing this, just waiting on some dye reducer to come through at the moment.

Thanks

Shaun

[Chief31794]

Hi Chief31794, would you dip dye something even if it was diluted with denatured alcohol? Just wondering if the tint would be even because I've been thinking of doing this, just waiting on some dye reducer to come through at the moment.

Thanks

Shaun

Yes,

I dip dye with Feibings Pro Oil dyes diluted. To me they seem a little to "Strong" right out of the bottle, I cut everything except black 1:1 at a minimum. 1:1 gives it a very nice rich color, I have thinned them more but 1:1 normally gets the job done for me.

Chief

[DavidL]

Yes,

I dip dye with Feibings Pro Oil dyes diluted. To me they seem a little to "Strong" right out of the bottle, I cut everything except black 1:1 at a minimum. 1:1 gives it a very nice rich color, I have thinned them more but 1:1 normally gets the job done for me.

Chief

How long do you dip the dye and how long do you allow it to dry.

If the leather has grime and marks from your hands how do you wash the leather so that the dye sits in properly? Leather bleach? Deglazer? Id rather go with something that I have at home or a common home depot item like turpentine, denatured alcohol or maybe saddle soap.

[King's X]

I received my shipment of Fiebing's dye yesterday and I looked at the box carefully. I wanted to share these instructions with you to see if this would help you solve your problem. You might want to consider applying a cleaner to the leather before you dye?? Now, I use a dauber when applying my massive area coats of dye.

[Chief31794]

How long do you dip the dye and how long do you allow it to dry.

If the leather has grime and marks from your hands how do you wash the leather so that the dye sits in properly? Leather bleach? Deglazer? Id rather go with something that I have at home or a common home depot item like turpentine, denatured alcohol or maybe saddle soap.

I use Oxylic Acid to clean leather, I don't normally use a deglazer. I tried deglazer and it didn't seem to do anything, deglazer is mostly denatured alcohol so if I think it needs it, I use that. I buy it at Lowes by the gallon. I dip the piece in the dye ensuring that it is totally submersed then bring it out and let it dry for at least 4 hours, I normally like to dye in the evenings and let it all dry overnight. I try to hang it up so that the excess dye will run off but if there is no convenient place on the piece to hang it by then I hold it up over the dipping dish until it runs off pretty good, just takes a minute or two then I lay it out on a paper shop towel face up and let it dry. I don't use saddle soap on raw leather before I dye it, It always seemed to me to cover some areas more than others and thus prevent penetration and cause splotches. I could be wrong, that happens quite a bit but it's just the way I do it, everybody does things a little different, experiment with different techniques to see what works best for you.

Chief

Edited April 29, 2014 by Chief31794

[iknowshaun]

Thanks for the advice Chief, I definitely agree, the dark brown and chocolate oil dyes from fiebings are pretty dark using them straight. I've also found saddle soap makes my dying blotchy if you don't wash it evenly DavidL, same as what Chief said, totally messed up a belt this way so ended up dying it black.

Cheers

Shaun

[DavidL]

Helps a lot thanks everyone. I will try the leather bleach diluted and also diluting saddle soap in water.