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I think I would prefer the iron better than the pricking wheel. The reason is the iron I feel makes for a better stitch since it makes a deep impression and the stitches sink in. I find when I hit the iron lightly to simulate the pricking wheel that the stitches look more like it was done with an overstitch. I don't know for sure if the wheel can make an impression as deep as the pricking iron or halfway into the leather. If only it was cheap so I could give it a try. Thanks for the info I most likely would have damaged my dixon iron, which i have been try to upgrade to a vergez for a while now.

Anyone try the arbor press and use very slight force just for an impression that isn't deep but is indented. Anyone tried a pricking wheel with good success while stitching?

Or has a set up where there is no noise while hammering in an apartment.

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Posted

Down to terminology then Macca. It's what I use, I don't worry about the correct term I just want a decent, fast and easy stitching hole.


David, that's what I use an overstitch wheel for. Lightly case if you want a good deep impression and run the overstitcher down the line. No worries. I want holes, I punch em in with the iron or I use the awl. Iron's faster :)

Kind regards, Raven

http://wolfscrafts.com/

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Posted

okay I think I'll try the press. 3 tons presses here are expensive - 200+...

Do you guys mind posting a picture so I can see how well the impressions come out.

Would a one ton have enough vertical clearance and pressure for 6-9 ounces of veg?

Most manufactures don't state the clearance which isn't helpful.

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Posted

Down to terminology then Macca. It's what I use, I don't worry about the correct term I just want a decent, fast and easy stitching hole.

its not really terminology, its a completely different tool

David is using a dixon pricking iron, they are tapered tools for marking, you can do very fine stitching with them.

yours is designed for punching holes so I can see a press working ok with that

10 spi - well THAR'S yer problem!

Seriously, people do 10 spi? Way too much time on their hands :P I want to sew that fine I'll use a machine. 6 or 7 spi is fine in a press.

10 SPI is pretty standard harness sizing over here..

I so some stuff at 12, even 14 at times :thumbsup:

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Posted

What is it you actually want to do David? I use a stitching iron (diamond hole type like Tandys) to punch holes through. If I just want an impression and will use an awl, I use an overstitching wheel. I don't use an iron to make marks

Kind regards, Raven

http://wolfscrafts.com/

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Posted

I think I would prefer the iron better than the pricking wheel. The reason is the iron I feel makes for a better stitch since it makes a deep impression and the stitches sink in. I find when I hit the iron lightly to simulate the pricking wheel that the stitches look more like it was done with an overstitch. I don't know for sure if the wheel can make an impression as deep as the pricking iron or halfway into the leather. If only it was cheap so I could give it a try. Thanks for the info I most likely would have damaged my dixon iron, which i have been try to upgrade to a vergez for a while now.

Anyone try the arbor press and use very slight force just for an impression that isn't deep but is indented. Anyone tried a pricking wheel with good success while stitching?

Or has a set up where there is no noise while hammering in an apartment.

I use a wheel for 14 SPI David

you can get a good impression with the wheel (again, not the US overstitch types, the euro ones that do proper slanted marks)

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Posted

Macca, I knew there was a reason I didn't want to get into saddlery :P Well, that and the fact that ALL the other leatherworkers in southeast QLD seem to be in that field so the market is a tad crowded :) For my customers that small a stitch is a disadvantage - they don't believe it's hand stitched. I've actually had better sales with less spi as people can 'see' it's hand stitched. For some of the Steampunk and Dystopian pieces I've been asked to deliberately make the stitching ragged, like it was done with just "a sharp knife and a needle" as one customer wanted.

Mostly I use the diamond point iron though.

Kind regards, Raven

http://wolfscrafts.com/

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Posted

To be honest I can see Macca's point of view where the iron will break if i am pressing down on 12 oz stiff vegtan and if there is a defect or hairline crack in the iron I could break the iron. However, the pricking iron when hit down has worked the best so I will have to try the press if I can find one at a decent price. I also have a newer iron and the teeth have no taper to it compared to the older irons. If it breaks I'm out 50 dollars, but I can get a brand new vergez pricking iron which I have been waiting to upgrade to and I may just end up going camping where I can be as loud as I want.

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Posted (edited)

David,

As an option to possibly consider, have you considered a heavy substrate to work on and/or under your Poundo board ?

IME, a heavy working base tends deaden and not vibrate or transmit noise through it as much as a lighter one whilst working on it...... much like a blacksmiths anvil doesn't hop about while hammering out metalwork. The steadiness of a heavy, solid work platform tends to also make other tasks easier as well.........

Hope this may help,

BTW.....there are U.S. Made pricking wheels that do have slanted /////// stitch marks out there if you do your leg work, I happen to own a few made by Osborne myself........

Regards,

N.A.T

Edited by Not Awl Together

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