Cutting sharp, crisp lines

[ttownfire]

Hey everyone!

I cut out the "window" for an inlay this evening and I jacked that piece of leather up bad. Maybe I was too ambitious as I was trying to cut out a firefighters helmet? My problem was in the corners. I couldn't get them nice clean without passing into the main leather.

Search offered some good tips for the latter stages of inlay/overlay work... but I didn't find cutting stuff. Further, I didn't want to hijack the beautiful inlay threads with questions. So, can any of you please provide some tips for cutting and/or finishing inlay windows and overlay pieces?

Thanks.

Edited October 21, 2008 by ttownfire

[tashabear]

What kind of knife are you using?

[Ian]

Something I do is spray a light coat of adhesive onto a piece of illustration board and temporarily adhere the leather while cutting. It keeps the leather from shifting. Also, those snap-off blade knives seem sharper than the regular Exactos and you can change blades more often. When you're cutting into a point (like flames, for instance), start at the point rather than risk cutting too far.

Ian

[tashabear]

Also, those snap-off blade knives seem sharper than the regular Exactos and you can change blades more often.

This is true, but the Exactos have a variety of blade shapes, and the blades are thinner. They may be superior for some application.

[Rawhide]

This is true, but the Exactos have a variety of blade shapes, and the blades are thinner. They may be superior for some application.

I disagree. I thinks the scalpel blades,#11, are thinner than exactos. If you're not careful, the snap easily and go flying. I've never snapped an xacto blade.

Marlon

[DCKNIVES]

I agree with Marlon.Inlays are almost 90% of my work these days,and I use a combination of #11 Exacto's and single edge razor blades.I can get into the tightest corners then.Dave

[ttownfire]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I "was" (after this post anyway) using a razor utility knife. and a cutting mat. I guess I will need to get an exacto knife with #11 blades and a single edge razor. What is a single edge razor?

Ian - thanks for the tips.

Dave - What do you use to hold your work and keep it from stretching/moving? Also, what do you cut on? Do you know where I might find some inlay resources?

What do you guys use to lay-out the patterns? I tried a big piece of chalk and a chalk pencil and both were basically useless. I went to a factory in Colombia and they used a pen-like thing to mark the leather. It made white lines and was easy to erase.

[DCKNIVES]

Michael, you can get single edge razor blades at most any hardware store, they use them for paint scrapers and such, for a couple of bucks for a hundred.

As easy as it sounds I don't use anything to hold the leather, one hand holding and the other cutting.It won't move much if you use sharp blades.As for cutting surfaces Tandy sells a poly cutting board but any grocery store has cutting boards.For myself, I use a large thick piece of UHMW, a plastic we use at my day job.I keep the scrap pieces to use for my night job.

Check here for hides and skins, tell em I sent ya. They have a huge selection and are very nice.

http://ostrichmarket.com/

I do all my layout and template work on manila file folders.Once I have my sheath or holster drawn, I will cut it out then cut my leather to match.If I'm doing an inlay I take the same template and draw my "window"then cut it out. I will then transfer the "window"to the leather using a red pen( red ink disappears when using dark colors) or pencil.Cut on that line.I then burnish and finish that edge, including dyeing the edge.You can then lay that piece on your hide to find the section you wish to use.Cut it out about 1/2" bigger . If you have any more questions feel free to ask ,we'll help you through it.Dave

[Ian]

What do you guys use to lay-out the patterns? I tried a big piece of chalk and a chalk pencil and both were basically useless. I went to a factory in Colombia and they used a pen-like thing to mark the leather. It made white lines and was easy to erase.

I'd also be interested in finding a white marker/pen that will work on black upholstery or garment leather. I've tried every white pencil I can find without luck.

[Timd]

Ian, have you tried Prismacolor art pencils? I get pretty good results with the white on darker leathers.

[tonyc1]

I'd also be interested in finding a white marker/pen that will work on black upholstery or garment leather. I've tried every white pencil I can find without luck.

I use Chinagraph pencils a lot and they come in diff colours.

[tashabear]

I disagree. I thinks the scalpel blades,#11, are thinner than exactos. If you're not careful, the snap easily and go flying. I've never snapped an xacto blade.

Marlon

Exactos are thinner than snap-off razor blades from the hardware store, which is what I was responding to.

[yaklady]

I'd also be interested in finding a white marker/pen that will work on black upholstery or garment leather. I've tried every white pencil I can find without luck.

Keith Johnstone at Chaylor-Fenneli gave me a pen like that one time. That's just the thing you need! I suggest you contact him. www.chaylor.com

[yaklady]

Hey everyone!

I cut out the "window" for an inlay this evening and I jacked that piece of leather up bad. Maybe I was too ambitious as I was trying to cut out a firefighters helmet? My problem was in the corners. I couldn't get them nice clean without passing into the main leather.

Search offered some good tips for the latter stages of inlay/overlay work... but I didn't find cutting stuff. Further, I didn't want to hijack the beautiful inlay threads with questions. So, can any of you please provide some tips for cutting and/or finishing inlay windows and overlay pieces?

Thanks.

The kind of knife you use is purely a personal thing, and really irrelevant to getting your corners done right. Some peole can cut out anything with a huge head knife. A thin blade is not your anwer here. Your corners can be easily cut with any sharp knife you choose. All you have to do is cut AWAY from the corner. Start your cut right in the corner. Push the blade into the leather and be sure to get it all the way through. Carefully follow the pattern line away from that spot. When you get near the next corner, turn your knife around and start in that corner, working towards the section that is already cut. NEVER cut into the corner. The same applies to swivel knife work. When I have a cut border, for instance, I always stop short of the corner. The line is finished off with bevelling.

Hope this helps!

Kathy

By the way, I prefer a utility knife like the one you were using.

Edited October 22, 2008 by yaklady

[TwinOaks]

Not to hijack the thread, but something that's only been touched on....the knife needs to be REALLY sharp. For reference on what I mean, after a few cuts, I strop exacto blades. The result is much smoother cutting, and that's what you're after. It shouldn't be 'effortless', but it should be close. Anytime you feel the leather grabbing the blade, it's time to sharpen/strop. When the leather grabs and suddenly releases is the exact moment in time when several hours of work becomes fodder for the scrap bin.

[Rawhide]

Exactos are thinner than snap-off razor blades from the hardware store, which is what I was responding to.

ahh now i get it. the ones with the thumb adjustment to extend and retract the blade. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

cheers

Marlon

[Rawhide]

The kind of knife you use is purely a personal thing, and really irrelevant to getting your corners done right. Some peole can cut out anything with a huge head knife. A thin blade is not your anwer here. Your corners can be easily cut with any sharp knife you choose. All you have to do is cut AWAY from the corner. Start your cut right in the corner. Push the blade into the leather and be sure to get it all the way through. Carefully follow the pattern line away from that spot. When you get near the next corner, turn your knife around and start in that corner, working towards the section that is already cut. NEVER cut into the corner. The same applies to swivel knife work. When I have a cut border, for instance, I always stop short of the corner. The line is finished off with bevelling.

Hope this helps!

Kathy

i agree here too use what's comfortable. I like the scalpels because I can bend them a little to skive as well.

By the way, I prefer a utility knife like the one you were using.

Not to hijack the thread, but something that's only been touched on....the knife needs to be REALLY sharp. For reference on what I mean, after a few cuts, I strop exacto blades. The result is much smoother cutting, and that's what you're after. It shouldn't be 'effortless', but it should be close. Anytime you feel the leather grabbing the blade, it's time to sharpen/strop. When the leather grabs and suddenly releases is the exact moment in time when several hours of work becomes fodder for the scrap bin.

I strop my blades after the first few cuts. I think leather artisans are the only folks that feel the sharpest blades and say "mmm, needs to be sharpened or stropped a bit"

Marlon

Edited October 22, 2008 by Rawhide

[8thsinner]

I had a load of things posted for this thread last night, but whilst my net was futtery I went over to play S.T.A.L.K.E.R. But that crashed comp...Well I am back now to add a few of my words....

I don't often cut inlays and overlays but for cutting shapes and what not...

1) SHARP + POLISHED blades, means yes strop the blade, even if you have no stropping compound, jewelers rouge works just as well. Smooth = less friction.

2) Wet leather cuts easier but can increase drag if the blade sticks hence smoother blades.

3) Start where you want to stop and start where you want to start, make them meet in the middle, Takes more practice but it's definitely more accurate...

4) MOVE the blade fast, faster cutting speed means less chance of a drag but also on the micro level the leather opens itself for you...

5) Use a curved edge where the leather is getting cut, the rounder the better. This means it's cutting it's way through the leather not splitting it apart through force alone.

6) I tend to get cleaner cuts at the front from cutting through from the back. I think this is because the back is softer and easier to cut so also helps to set the cut angle for the front if that makes any sense...

Thats all for now..

[Kevin]

Nobody's gonna like this, but if you try it you'll be very surprised. I cut on a piece of sheet metal. An English saddler told me that's how fine leathergoods makers do it. If you use a slanted blade, the only thing that touches the metal is the tip and that is not the part of the blade that is actually cutting. The fuzz on the back doesn't get dragged down into the surface with the blade and it gets cut also. I use the red handle from exacto and hold it like a swivel knife (except index finger on the yoke of course).

Kevin

[Bree]

The kind of knife you use is purely a personal thing, and really irrelevant to getting your corners done right. Some peole can cut out anything with a huge head knife. A thin blade is not your anwer here. Your corners can be easily cut with any sharp knife you choose. All you have to do is cut AWAY from the corner. Start your cut right in the corner. Push the blade into the leather and be sure to get it all the way through. Carefully follow the pattern line away from that spot. When you get near the next corner, turn your knife around and start in that corner, working towards the section that is already cut. NEVER cut into the corner. The same applies to swivel knife work. When I have a cut border, for instance, I always stop short of the corner. The line is finished off with bevelling.

Hope this helps!

Kathy

By the way, I prefer a utility knife like the one you were using.

I agree with Kathy. Cutting away from the corners is the key. I have screwed up a lot of good leather by thinking that I could stop my blade at the intersection of the corner. I now know that this was a mistake on my part.

I took a class with Chan Geer on Swivel Knife Control and he taught us exactly what Kathy suggests... start in the corner and cut away from the corner so that you don't inadvertantly cut across the line into areas that you don't want to be cut. George Hurst taught the same thing in another class I took.

And in swivel knife cutting Chan also does not join the cut at the corner but stops a little short and completes the corner with a beveller. That isn't really relevant to cutting out windows for inlays but it is a point worth sharing.

[yaklady]

Nobody's gonna like this, but if you try it you'll be very surprised. I cut on a piece of sheet metal. An English saddler told me that's how fine leathergoods makers do it. If you use a slanted blade, the only thing that touches the metal is the tip and that is not the part of the blade that is actually cutting. The fuzz on the back doesn't get dragged down into the surface with the blade and it gets cut also. I use the red handle from exacto and hold it like a swivel knife (except index finger on the yoke of course).

Kevin

I've heard that cutting on sheet meteal works well. They say you don't dull your knife. I think I'll try that out. We just put sheet metal on top of the yak shak . . .

[ttownfire]

Wow. Great help everyone. Thank you.

Are inlays something you learn by watching someone else? I've had a heck of a time finding other information on the net. I may be searching for the wrong items/terms... I'm looking for a tutorial or sorts.

[tonyc1]

What about glass? If I ever have much skiving to do, I do use glass to skive on.

Tony.

[yaklady]

Wow. Great help everyone. Thank you.

Are inlays something you learn by watching someone else? I've had a heck of a time finding other information on the net. I may be searching for the wrong items/terms... I'm looking for a tutorial or sorts.

I haven't done much in the way of inlays, but I did learn what I know from other people. When I'm inlaying another type of skin, I like putting a layer of leather underneath it to lift it up a bit. I do that with applique braiding, too. Sometimes a stiff foam rubber underneath is a cool thing.

Tony, skiving on a piece of glass is the best way to go. There's nothing to get caught up on with glass.

[Randyc]

I'd also be interested in finding a white marker/pen that will work on black upholstery or garment leather. I've tried every white pencil I can find without luck.

These are the pens I use for marking leather. They use silver ink and are made by Fisher Space Pen Co.

spacepen.com

Randy

Silver Colored Ink Space Pen

Price: $4.00