I miss tandy's Pro Dye!!

[Rayban]

RG,

I forgot to mention that Fiebing's offers three classes of dyes: Leather Dye, Professional Oil Dye, and Institutional Leather Dye. I have used all three, all on the same project. Just have to be careful of the alcohol drying the leather out too much.

Catalog is out today!! I'm sure i can live with their leather Dye, or Pro Oil dye. The tandy store I frequent doesn't carry that many colors, and I miss Pro Dye's med. brown, saddle tan, and others.

Thanks again for your suggestion.

Rick

[BillB]

Rick,

Glad I could help. I also use Tandy Cova Dye as well as their new Eco-Flow Hi-Lite stains. I use them for different effects I am trying to accomplish. For example, when I did the Air Force Medal and Air Man insignia I needed something that looked like enamel finish so I used the Cova Dye. For the Native American Totems where I am trying to get the weathered natural look of the art form, I will use the Hi-Lite since it is more of a "wash" appearance. It will also make a good background color where I want to color the background but not the carving so that the carving standout and is not over shadowed by the coloring.

[AlcoveShop]

Just dont get anything you used the eco on wet- ever. We tested these when they came out under various conditions and rated them "Not Finished Yet". They blend well, but again, dont accidently drop your wallet in the slush-

I'll stick with the Fiebings dyes; as for color choice, we *used* to make our own...

[BillB]

You are correct on the water based dyes. I always go over my water based work with either satin finish or gloss finish to lock in the water base. I use two to three coats with the first two being put on by brush and the final being rubbed on. This usually does the job. When I use the oil or alcohol based dyes, I don't need a final sealer unless I want to make sure the dye does not rub off on the users clothes, then I will seal them as well. Nothing like having black dye rub off on white clothing.