.45 holster questions

[Mike Craw]

Thanks for the replies. Since I've never made a holster I don't know the lingo either. The gun is not a revolver and he wants to carry it locked and cocked. he also wants it to be a cross draw so does the thumb break get made the same way and stays on the back side of the holster?

Hey Murse!

Yes, a thumb break on a cross draw is made the same way as for a strong-side holster because the snap needs to be on the "Inside" so that when his hand grasps the weapon in shooting position to draw, his thumb will move down the left, or inside, of the weapon if he's a right-handed shooter. What will change is the position of the belt loop or slots to position the muzzle the opposite way for cross-draw.

Mike

[TwinOaks]

.

One bit of advice when cutting your leather from your pattern, in regards to the strap/thumb break; cut the straps larger/longer than you think you will need them. It's easier to trim them to fit once the holster body is created, than it is to try and stretch them because they were cut short or shrank during the wet molding process.

Sage words of wisdom there!!!! That little bit of planning is the difference between cutting out the pattern and cutting out leather to add to the pattern.

[Lobo]

Here are some photos of holsters I have made with thumb-breaks. I reinforce the thumb-tab with a strip of 24-gauge sheet metal sewn in between two pieces of leather, then pierced for the snap.

For the 1911-style pistols, when used for defense purposes, "Condition One" (cocked and locked) is the sensible method of carry. Thus, the thumb-break design not only provides for retention, but also provides an added measure of safety to the practice.

If using the "blue gun" to make this holster, it is advisable to cut the hammer off of the blue gun so that the strap and snap fit is correct.

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

Colorado Territory, USA