Dye Leaking

[rayze]

Hi guys, first of all sorry if this is under the wrong forum section!.

I have been having some issues with dye still "leaking" or bleeding out on wrist bands/cuffs I have been making, I have followed a lot of tutorials and I was pretty sure I was doing everything the right way, anyway to remedy this issue would be awesome!.

The process that I have used is as follows:

1) cut/shape
2) Dye( Fiebing's Professional oil dye) allow to dry over night after several coats
3) Buff until appears no surface dye is present - Slick/burnish edges
4) Apply Tankote to underside of leather

5) Apply polish (Carnauba Creme) to face of leather
6) Apply Acrylic Resolene to all areas using a wringed out sponge - leave to dry for 30-60 mins and add another coat or two

7) Add any rivets/snaps and so on.

The dye when it leaks for instance with the black dye leaves quite the amount of dye on my wrist at the first sign of swetting and such.

Would be grateful if anyone could shine some light on what I could possibly be doing wrong .

Happy crafting!

[TomG]

Maybe try leaving off the tankote on the flesh side and just use 3 light coats of Resolene.

[DoubleC]

This always seems to be an issue with black oil dye and sweating. For black use vinegaroon instead. Once it dries it doesn't rub off. Cheryl

[King's X]

Try buffing after each coat before repeating the application. Though multiple coats of black oil is interesting......I would just buy black drum dyed leather and save the money from buying dyes.

[RavenAus]

This is the precise reason I won't use Fiebings oil dyes. I use Cobblestones spirit dyes and I've never had issues with dye bleeding. The only issue I have at all is they are almost impossible to resist against for 2-tone work.

[King's X]

I use nothing but Fiebings spirit and oil dyes. I have never had a bleeding issue after I learned to buff after each coat.

[rayze]

Thank you very much for the helpful tips and info guys!, when you say buff after each coat, im gathering your refering to the Acrylic Resolene? and would leaving the tankote actually make an impact on this? I thought it would just add another layer of water resistance?

[RavenAus]

By buffing they mean getting a cloth and rubbing it until no dye comes off. Which is why I don't use those dyes

The dye I use needs no buffing to get rid of excess, you just spray'brush it on, seal, and go. Job done.

Edited July 16, 2015 by RavenAus

[rayze]

I am quite happy to try out new dyes, but I'm gathering I will have to get different types of finishes due to the contents of what the different dyes maybe made up of? so I have a few large bottles of oil dyes and these finishes so obviously I am more obliged to find a solution at-least until I have exhausted this stock!

[King's X]

I keep a coaster size piece of sheep wool and lightly buff my leather after dyeing it. I have always found residue after dyeing is dry. It is not a chore, but just a step in the process. I also buff after the final coat of Tan Kote/Bag Kote. It is a beautiful thing to see the shine.

Good luck

[mlapaglia]

Make sure you let each coat of dye dry completely, then buff it until no more dye comes off. Then and only then put the next coat of dye on.

[rayze]

I shall give some of these ideas a try, thanks for the heads up, much appreciated!

[rayze]

Sry for the double post!, Is one layer of Acrylic Resolene sufficient if it is well buffed after it is dried or is 2 - 3 coats suggested?, currently it is applied with a damp sponge and the bottle tipped like a bottle of TCP for instant onto the sponge a few times.