vieshling Report post Posted July 29, 2015 Hello! First of all, I'm VERY new to leatherwork and the basics. I've purchased some books, but nothing seem to explain the best process for dying and/or antiquing the leather. I believe they're different? I'm basically wondering what are the steps that I need to take from start to finish to ensure a nice finish that won't change color or rub off later. Anyways, I've been experimenting and I've got Fiebings Antique, not the gel, in saddle tan and mahogany. Problem is I've put it on two different pieces of leather. The first was on some rounders that I purchased that seemed to give a great color. The second was a 4-6 oz veg tan leather that I tooled. Problem is the mahogany turned to a purple and the saddle tan looks orange and both seemed to dry out this leather. What am I doing wrong? I read that I should oil with Pure Neatsfoot Oil before antiquing, but isn't Neatsfoot Oil known to darken leather? Additionally if I seal it will that soften the leather back up or do I need to condition the leather AFTER dying and then put on the gloss seal? I also have some items that I've practiced painting with Fiebings Acrylic Leather Paint and I'm wondering what specifically to do so that I can dye the leather without dying/coloring the paint or should I have dyed/antiqued the leather prior to painting it? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just at a loss of what to use as I don't have a lot of money to purchase multiple products that won't work. What should I purchase? Thank-you in advance for anyone's time in answering this! What I DO have: Fiebings Antique Mahogany Fiebings Antique Saddle Tan Fiebings Dye Black Bickmore 4 Conditioner Pure Neatsfoot Oil Angelus High Gloss Finish RTC Sheridan Resist and Finish Fiebings Acrylic Resolene Variety of Fiebings Acrylic Paint Colors (12 pk) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genewshipp Report post Posted February 6, 2016 It would be great to have the steps. I have already dyed a holster. Getting near my bench is a sure way to forget what I read here. Printing is a priority this time. My first coat of dye had some light patches so I rubbed the whole thing with alcohol before the second coat. The alcohol in the dye (fiebing's) plus the rubbing alcohol dried it up. Some people say not to use neatsfoot, to use Lexol instead. Thanks in advance Gene Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
