vieshling Report post Posted July 29, 2015 Hello! First of all, I'm VERY new to leatherwork and the basics. I've purchased some books, but nothing seem to explain the best process for dying and/or antiquing the leather. I believe they're different? I'm basically wondering what are the steps that I need to take from start to finish to ensure a nice finish that won't change color or rub off later. Anyways, I've been experimenting and I've got Fiebings Antique, not the gel, in saddle tan and mahogany. Problem is I've put it on two different pieces of leather. The first was on some rounders that I purchased that seemed to give a great color. The second was a 4-6 oz veg tan leather that I tooled. Problem is the mahogany turned to a purple and the saddle tan looks orange and both seemed to dry out this leather. What am I doing wrong? I read that I should oil with Pure Neatsfoot Oil before antiquing, but isn't Neatsfoot Oil known to darken leather? Additionally if I seal it will that soften the leather back up or do I need to condition the leather AFTER dying and then put on the gloss seal? I also have some items that I've practiced painting with Fiebings Acrylic Leather Paint and I'm wondering what specifically to do so that I can dye the leather without dying/coloring the paint or should I have dyed/antiqued the leather prior to painting it? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just at a loss of what to use as I don't have a lot of money to purchase multiple products that won't work. What should I purchase? Thank-you in advance for anyone's time in answering this! What I DO have: Fiebings Antique Mahogany Fiebings Antique Saddle Tan Fiebings Dye Black Bickmore 4 Conditioner Pure Neatsfoot Oil Angelus High Gloss Finish RTC Sheridan Resist and Finish Fiebings Acrylic Resolene Variety of Fiebings Acrylic Paint Colors (12 pk) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted August 4, 2015 I am sorry to hear that you are having problems. I can remember when I started and was lost to find a proper finishing process. So, here is what I do for my veg tan projects. I use mainly Wickett & Craig Leather in Russett and Tandy Leather on occasion. I have learned through trial and a lot of error how things work with the leathers I use. You are somewhat correct with what you said about neatsfoot oil darkening your leather a shade or two. I also have some EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) in my arsenal and mainly use this oil for two reasons. Cost and the fact that it will not darken the leather like Neatsfoot oil. I use Fiebing's Antique paste which has a little bit of Tan Kote in it. My 3 main colors are black, Sheridan Brown and Mahogany. I own but haven't ventured into any other colors of paste because.....well.....I like the results I have received so far. Here is my modified 'Sheridan finish' for my veg tan projects. I case and tool my leather I dye my leather to include two tone dye jobs I apply oil to the entire project I then apply RTC or a lacquer based product like Clear Lac or Wyosheen....just depends. I then apply my antique paste and allow it to dry. Finally, I take some Tan Kote and carefully rub the top of the project to remove any surface paste. I try to leave paste in the cuts and deep areas. Time lapse has always been a question that has come up regarding my process. After much trial and error, I have found that a longer period of time is better than a short period. Since I do leather craft as a hobby I have the luxury of my projects having some drying time in between steps. For my steps, I have found that half a day works fine with the oil, RTC/Clear Lac and Paste steps. I know some people who have received okay results after allowing these steps to have 2 hours drying time. I haven't had those results in my tests, so I try to be patient. If for some reason I use acrylic paint to accent parts of the design, I will usually brush a coat of enamel before I move forward with any other steps. Again, I have found that this works best for me. Hopefully, this helps you a bit. I am sure that others may chime in to offer their processes. Please note that this is what works for me after my tests. In other words, whatever information you are given.......you will have to try your tests to see what works best. BTW, I have never had my Mahogany turn purple after application. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vieshling Report post Posted January 11, 2016 Oh my goodness! I just saw this now! I was having problems with logging into the site, but I think I have it fixed now! lol. Since then I have done a lot of trial and error, but I will try these things that work for you! Thank-you so much for replying to this and giving me advice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites