Meinshnake Report post Posted August 4, 2015 Hey guys and gals, just getting back into leatherwork and am taking a course on bootmaking. The course will be teaching desert boots, and I am looking at leather for uppers. I know it should be chrome tanned, and for sake of time I am looking at prefinished leather. Major questions are what weight? I am thinking 4-5 oz, and will a oily/utility leather work alright? I am really not a fan of horween leather for boots as it doesn't give enough support for my feet imho (which really means nada) and unfortunately don't have much time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe D Report post Posted August 4, 2015 Hey Meinshnake, The most common weight for the upper is 2-3oz, which will be kip rather than cowhide (kip is steer between six months and one year). Nice dress shoes often use 1.5-2oz calf (closer to three months). A more rugged shoe can use 3-4oz cowhide. Also keep in mind, softer leathers, like kip, are easier to work with than cowhide for you first shoe. I would definitely recommend against utility leather for the upper; it would be tough to last well. Suede splits can be a bit heavier, since they are softer without the grain side. As it happens, I just started my second pair of desert boots last night, and I used 4oz suede split for each. Anywhere in the 1.5-3oz range is good for the lining. A lot of quality shoemakers use veg tanned for the lining because it keeps the foot drier, but many use chrome too. Either is fine. Hope that helps! Joe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Meinshnake Report post Posted August 4, 2015 Well thank you very much Joe! So I guess I will try to find something for the outer that fits that description. Another question, any experience going unlined on a desert boot? I am looking to make a more rugged version of a desert boot and I am generally rough on my shoes riding motorcycles, and was actually thinking of putting a Christy sole on them as well as eyelets for the laces (which I know isn't really desert booty) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe D Report post Posted August 4, 2015 I've never made an unlined shoe. My Clark's desert boots from before I made my own shoes were both unlined and had eyelets. Without a lining, you won't be able to use a toe puff or heel counter. That could work with a heavier leather, which will hold more shape on it's own. And riding definitely justified a heavier leather! Probably the most important reason to have soft leather, counters, and lining is to minimize creasing along the vamp, which you may not care about. Perhaps someone who's made an unlined leather shoe before can jump in... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
