holster question

[WaG35]

I want to make a pancake holster with more of a flat back, but I a m struggling with how that might be done. If I stitch then mold, the two halves seem to come out protruding about the same on both sides. So, I think I am going to use a peice bigger than what I need, mold the top, then trim. My question is what would I use to trim the top of the holster that won't lay flat on my table. i don't really want to leave my mold in the holster, and mark it all up. Is there something that would work for this. I thought about shears, but I will need to get some better than what I have been using. Just something that has been bothering me. I am going to try this for my glock 23 w/ light attached as there are not leather options for guns with lights. I am also going to incorporate some kydex to this one as a stiffener. I am not sure to what extent but somehow kydex will be in it.

Edited January 26, 2008 by WaG35

[Mike Craw]

WaG35,

If I understand your question correctly, you are molding the top of the holster, it is glued to the flat back of the holster, and then you want to trim the top to the dimensions of the back, correct?

I would put a cutting board at the edge of my bench and just lay the edge of the holster onto the cutting board until the molded part of the holster contacts the edge of the cutting board, then you could use a round knife for the outside curves and a straight knife for the inside curves. I'd guess the Kydex would already be trimed to the final profile, so you could use that as a guide for your knife.

That's the way I trim odd pieces.

Mike

Edited January 26, 2008 by Mike Craw

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

WaG35, I would try a holster for the 19 without the tac light first to simplify things a little. After you get that down, then try the tac light.

This is the method I would use to accomplish the holster type that you want:

Make the bottom layer the axact shape that you want it to be. It wont change or deform because you arent' gonna mold it.

Copy the shape onto your typical pattern paper, cut it out and then cut it apart where the stitch lines will be. Now you have three separate peices that make the front of the holster.

Lay out the pieces on another sheet of pattern paper.

Sepparate the pieces enough to allow for the width of the gun and the leather, if you follow me. The front should be a uniform distance apart. The rear will probably be about the same as the front on the bottom, and a little closer together at the top, since the trigger guard is narrower.

Now that the peices are arranged how you want them, tape them down and draw lines to connect the gaps between the three pieces. If you want a lower cut to the front of the holster's throat, draw a U shape instead of a straight line between the front and middle pieces (on the top only or you'll have a silly looking holster).

Cut out the whole over all shape and trace it to a single sheet of pattern paper or cardboard or whatever you normally use. That is your new pattern for the front of your holster. Carefully pull apart the taped peices on the previous template cause you're gonna need em.

After you've cut the front and back holster peices, edge the areas that are going to stay a single thickness (the throat and the bottom opening of the holster).

Now use the front and rear pieces you cut out before to mark where the stitch lines will be on your top layer.

Prep the rear of the holster (only inside of the stitch lines of course) on both layers with glue, let them set a little until they are tacky, and line the edges up as you stick them together (the outside edges of both pieces will have the exact same shape since you added the extra material in the middle).

Repeat this process with the front edge of the holster. This may be a little tricky since the top peice is wider than the bottom, but that's the point of this style of holster. Now you have two peices of leather glued together with a "tunnel" in the middle.

Sew your stitch lines where you ,arked themas well as around the outside edges, and proceed as you normally would.

When you wet the holster to mold it, place the holster on a hard smooth surface and only bone the front (you might only want to wet the front piece as well, but that is up to you).

Tadah!!! You now have a flat side holster!

You'll have to experiment with the tac light to do this method and be sure to place a spacer around the trigger guard to allow the extra room to be able to draw the light out. Also, pay a lot of attention to trigger discipline when holstering the gun in that style of holster, as they are too easy to get to the trigger even when holstered (due to the extra room for the tac light).

Hope this helps. If you have another method ou would prefer, by all means do what makes you comfortable. I just wanted to share the best way I have come up with. Any one is welcome to interject with any improvements to my methods, as there are a bunch of folks on here with more experience than me.

[WaG35]

Thanks Boomstick this process is what I have been playing with in my mind. I am still having quite a time locating my stitch lines correctly prior to molding though. Thanks again.

[mliebs8]

Thanks Boomstick this process is what I have been playing with in my mind. I am still having quite a time locating my stitch lines correctly prior to molding though. Thanks again.

I have a hard time with the stitch lines also.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Well, the good thing about this design is that you can almost trace the gun and you'll be pretty close, since all of the extra room is made by the extra width of the top piece. You should probably allow at least 1/4" around the actual shape so the trigger guard fits correctly.

You're gonna hafta get the feel of the pattern making process by trial and error, I'm afraid. I still make mistakes once and a while on custom orders, which really sucks as it usually costs me around twenty bucks of would be profit.

One thing that I do that might help you guys is save the excess belly leather from the sides I use. I will wet form the scrap leather around the gun, stitch it wet, and when it dries use a marker to draw design changes I want to make to the pattern for the production holster. Then I will rip the stitches out and flatten the leather to get a better idea of how to draw the pattern. It takes more time, but it is a good way to learn to get a feel for how to mark the stitch guides.

Sometimes you'll just have to try something and see how it turns out. Once in a while everything will turn out perfect! The rest of the time you will end up with a lovely hand-crafted reminder of what not to do.

Edited January 27, 2008 by BOOMSTICKHolsters

[WaG35]

Thanks Boomstick for all of your help. It never ceases to amaze me how helpful people are. You make some beautiful holsters. Thanks again.