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Glueing Large Pieces Of Stiffener ..

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What methods and products do you guys and gals prefer for glueing sheets of stiffener to backs of leather? I mean I'm ok with "painting" glue on things like watch straps, key fobs or along an edge run on bigger pieces - but anything larger gets teedious.

I gravitate towards contact cement over white glue in most situations.. does anyone thin either to make the "painting" of the glue faster, probably while using a larger brush too - than I've been using? Or is there a spray set up that's not a total PITA? I do have a compressor and this seems a more professional way to go . But on the other hand, my production is maybe not high enough yet to keep glue in a sprayer without it setting up. How long can you expect unused (thinned) glue to last?

Maybe spray can glue is the way to go? Suggestions?

Maybe just using contact cement brushed around the edges of the stiffener (and the leather, but leaving enough edge for stitching) is an option in some cases? Like when using a heavy stiffener product sandwiched between two pieces of thin leather... anyone have experience with that?

Doug C

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ok thanks, and do you recommend spraying it to both leather and stiffener.. or is one or the other enough?

Is it good for leather flesh to flesh adhesion as well? (like when stiffening a bag by using leather on the interior)

Doug C

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I've tried a lot of different spray glues including 3M 90. They remain tacky - not fully drying. And the hold is nothing like barge. I'm sure it would work for some applications, but for now I am sticking with barge and pva with a brush and spreader.

I would use spray glue. 3M 90 holds well.

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3M super 77 is kinda removable, while Super 90 is kinda permanent. Both are the cats meow for large glueing.

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Spray both sides, mask off what you do not want glue on. Allow both to dry till it is not sticky, press together. It will work on either side of the leather, if the leather is shiny sand it first. I agree with Tinker, 3M 70 does not hold as well, more temporary.

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I use Hirschkleber, it is kind of a craft glue, but works very well on stiffeners and toe boxes. It is kind of a paste, and you can put it on by using your fingers. I guess a brush would work too. It doesn't like water or damp leather (so you have to let the toe dry before putting it on), but it does dry hard. Lisa Sorrell sells it, makes a little profit on it, but packages it up in 8oz quantities, not the 6 kg cans you get from the suppliers. I also have some stuff that is nitrocellulose dissolved in acetone (I got it on order from a little chemical company in the midwest, they make it to order) which I used to use, the Hirschkleber is so much easier to use and doesn't require ventilation.

Art

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Super77/90 is great because you have great control over application rates, a light spray of either on both sides is semi-permanent, and can be repositioned before it sets. A heavy coat on both sides, followed by a light coat again just before the first loses its tack, wait until fully tack free, and put it together and it is stuck. Like foreverstuck. One of the hardest things to learn is the patience to wait long enough before putting parts together. Used to use it to vinyl and fabric cover subwoofer boxes and custom car electronic installations years ago. There was alot of stretching of materials into weird curves and cavitys with nothing but spray glue holding it on. Never fails if done right.

Learned a few tricks.

My favourite is spraying ANYTHING to turn it into a lint roller...

Lightly dust pattern pieces to keep them in place, if the glue is barely tacky it wont stick to the leather.

Use it to glue wet/dry sandpaper to glass to sharpen tools

Some art supply stores sell spray can tips for grafitti artist that have lots of different spray patterns to control the glue better. There are different size stems on cans, can't remember which fits 3m.

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Spray both sides, mask off what you do not want glue on. Allow both to dry till it is not sticky, press together. It will work on either side of the leather, if the leather is shiny sand it first. I agree with Tinker, 3M 70 does not hold as well, more temporary.

I may have to give the 90 another try then.

Incidentally, today I found this really interesting gluing method from a very old video on shoemaking (Go to 6m 27s):

Edited by Matt T

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3M super 77 is kinda removable, while Super 90 is kinda permanent. Both are the cats meow for large glueing.

I have been using Super 77 to glue cloth to garment leather a l ot lately. One time, I ironed it to remove some wrinkles, and man that made that 77 stick like hell. Since then, I have started ironing all my leather lining whether I use contact cement or super 77. The heat and pressure from the iron really sets that glue in on the fibers.

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Over the years i have tried most glues, but recently discovered a fast bonding PVA glue made by Selleys. It is easy to use, dries clear and any excess can be wiped away with a damp cloth.

Quote description:"Aquadhere QuickSet is a non-toxic, quick setting PVA wood glue suitable for all types of wood. It will bond almost anything your craftwork calls for, yet sets twice as fast compared to standard PVA’s and requires no clamping"

post-13610-0-43950400-1446964985_thumb.j

I don't know if this is available outside Australia, but maybe Titebond has the equivalent in the US.

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I glue in 9X12 panels of stiffener into my portfolios between the layers of leather using water-based leather glue from a glue roller that I bought off of Amazon for about $6. It's a glue bottle with a screw-on roller top and a lid when you're not using the roller. Works well, but takes a little practice to get the right squeeze/rolling combo so you don't overdo the glue. Don't try to dilute the glue, that just makes a mess.

I tried spray adhesive, but it didn't hold as well as the leather glue and I wound up with bubbles eventually. Maybe I had the wrong kind, but the leather glue works perfectly as long as you don't let it dry. You get the added benefit of being able to reposition the stiffener if you don't get it just right the first time, as mine are glued in place with 1/2" borders all around the stiffeners.

Looks like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19044-Roller-8-Ounce/dp/B0015YJHO0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1447775469&sr=8-7&keywords=glue+roller

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I glue in 9X12 panels of stiffener into my portfolios between the layers of leather using water-based leather glue from a glue roller that I bought off of Amazon for about $6. It's a glue bottle with a screw-on roller top and a lid when you're not using the roller. Works well, but takes a little practice to get the right squeeze/rolling combo so you don't overdo the glue. Don't try to dilute the glue, that just makes a mess.

I tried spray adhesive, but it didn't hold as well as the leather glue and I wound up with bubbles eventually. Maybe I had the wrong kind, but the leather glue works perfectly as long as you don't let it dry. You get the added benefit of being able to reposition the stiffener if you don't get it just right the first time, as mine are glued in place with 1/2" borders all around the stiffeners.

Looks like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19044-Roller-8-Ounce/dp/B0015YJHO0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1447775469&sr=8-7&keywords=glue+roller

What kind of stiffener panels are you using?

rick

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What kind of stiffener panels are you using?

rick

The Tandy Leather bag stiffener. Although I was there the other day and got the last of their supply of the original stuff. The new stuff is about half as thick and from another vendor based on the markings. Not sure what I'm going to be using in the future if they stick with that junk.

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I glue in 9X12 panels of stiffener into my portfolios between the layers of leather using water-based leather glue from a glue roller that I bought off of Amazon for about $6. It's a glue bottle with a screw-on roller top and a lid when you're not using the roller. Works well, but takes a little practice to get the right squeeze/rolling combo so you don't overdo the glue. Don't try to dilute the glue, that just makes a mess.

I tried spray adhesive, but it didn't hold as well as the leather glue and I wound up with bubbles eventually. Maybe I had the wrong kind, but the leather glue works perfectly as long as you don't let it dry. You get the added benefit of being able to reposition the stiffener if you don't get it just right the first time, as mine are glued in place with 1/2" borders all around the stiffeners.

Looks like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19044-Roller-8-Ounce/dp/B0015YJHO0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1447775469&sr=8-7&keywords=glue+roller

That glue bottle with roller looks great, thanks for the tip. Which brand of water-based leather glue do you use?

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I use Leatherweld from Tandy. It holds well and you have a bit of time to get it down on larger pieces. It can bleed through on thinner pigskin liners though.

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