First ever project - 1911 shoulder holster

[mantotohpa]

 

Needed a shoulder holster with these requirements:

1. Full size 1911 pistol with rail.

2. Carry concealed all the time.

3. Excellent concealment with jacket or western-style vest.

4. Reasonably comfortable.

5. Civilian use - non-LEO, non-tactical.

6. Functionality is a priority.

After looking at a lot of holster pictures /videos online, and reading this forum, I finally decided on ideas for a design.  Obtained essential tools and supplies.  Implemented the plan, made many mistakes, but completed the project with a workable holster.  Nothing about this is for show - as my skills are primitive at this time.  Much learned, and working on a second holster. 

Holster includes a sight-guide.    Harness is heavy nylon straps that form an "x" across my back and attach to belt pants belt loops.  Holster tie-down allows me to be in a sitting position and the holster rides over my belt for comfort, yet when standing it is secure for a reliable weapon draw.

Welcome constructive comments, thanks for your time.

 

- Respectfully, Mantotohpa

 

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2016 by mantotohpa
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[CowboyDan]

Howdy, & welcome.

That is definitely an interesting design.

Your idea for the lower attachment isn't bad. How it loops through the two holes to pull against multiple layers of leather I think will work well.
But, you upper attachment points aren't going to last very long. The dog leash clips (that's what I've seen them on mostly, I don't know what the real name is for them) will elongate the holes in the leather pretty quickly, then SNAP! And suddenly your holster is flopping around. Not fun.
One better way would be to add a wide loop to the top of the holster, and have a rectangular steel ring in it. The nylon would then loop through that, kind of like the strap attachments on a laptop bag. That way the stress is spread out over a wider area and distributed evenly.

You will want to use a stitching groover tool. If you're cheap & creative, you can make one from a big nail. But it's probably better for the first time to buy one.
When you make the groove, it not only gives you a guide for placing the awl (to keep the lines nice & straight), but it also insets the thread so it doesn't become the high point and wear through. Thicker thread requires a deeper groove to protect it. I have a belt that I wear that when I stitched it, I used thread that was really too big. So 3 1/2 years later the thread is wearing through. I'll have to re-stitch it sometime in the next few months. This time I'll use a slightly smaller thread.

 

Are those Trijicon sights? Did you get the Tritium ones?

 

[mantotohpa]

CowboyDan,

Thanks for your response and advise!

> That is definitely an interesting design.

Everything about this holster is a prototype.  Was not even sure the thing would be functional.  But after several days of wearing it, I am generally pleased with it.  It is not the disaster I expected.

The design is a combination of ideas I found in pictures on the web.  When I was building it, I took a large piece of leather, and long story short, cut away anything that I did not like.  I wanted the rear sight to be protected.  And I wanted to be able to get a good grip on the pistol with my hand placed properly on the pistol grips.  Some of the design was by accident - but it worked out in the end.  

> then SNAP! And suddenly your holster is flopping around.

Had that happen once with my old cheap holster I bought from the store.   One of many reasons I decided to learn to make holsters that really function properly.

> But, you upper attachment points aren't going to last very long.

You are right.  I knew when I decided to punch the holes for the latches, it was a bad idea.  I really like your idea of using the rectangular steel ring.  That will work well with the wide harness straps.  Sometime I will replace the nylon harness straps with leather, but for now the nylon is working surprisingly well.  Since this holster is mostly a prototype design, the next one will be built with your suggestions.

> You will want to use a stitching groover tool.

Yup.  That is a lesson learned.  That is one of the items on my shopping list.

> Are those Trijicon sights? Did you get the Tritium ones?

They are night sights, that come stock with the Springfield Armory Operator (LW).  Not sure of the manufacturer.  I like the sights, but with my aging eyes, in the daytime, I have a hard time seeing my sights.  Probably will carefully paint the front sight with bright orange paint just so I know where the thing is at.  The gun is similar (though not the same) as this one: http://www.springfield-armory.com/products/1911-mc-operator-45-acp/

Question:  Currently I have put 2 coats of Fiebing's Dye 4 USMC Black, and two coats of pure Neatsfoot oil (almost too much oil I found out).  I am puzzled what to finish it with.  Since this holster is for concealment, I don’t want a shiny glossy finish... I prefer a dull finish that will blend in to the shadows under my vest.  I have learned that wearing it without some kind of finish, the dye does rub off on my shirt and hands.  So I am going to have to finish this up with something.  If anyone has ideas for a "dull" finish, I am open for ideas.

I have not burnished the edges yet.  Another lesson I will be learning shortly.

Thanks for your time and effort to look over my first ever leatherworking project.

 

 

Edited June 22, 2016 by mantotohpa
spelling errors

[mantotohpa]

> Your idea for the lower attachment isn't bad.

This was just an act of desperation.  I learned on my old shoulder holster, that I did not like the attachment at the very bottom of the holster - it caused issues when I sat down.  Attaching it further up on the holster allows the holster to "slide down" over my belt when I sit - hard to explain here.  There are probably more elegant ways of doing this, but this was fast, and for this prototype, it got the job done.  I must say, to drill the holes in the nice leather about broke my heart.  The tie-down is critical - the pistol fits tight in the holster, and without the tie-down, it takes two hands to get the weapon out.  

[CowboyDan]

On 6/21/2016 at 10:35 PM, mantotohpa said:

>> Are those Trijicon sights? Did you get the Tritium ones?

>They are night sights, that come stock with the Springfield Armory Operator (LW).  Not sure of the manufacturer.  I like the sights, but with my aging eyes, in the daytime, I have a hard time seeing my sights.  Probably will carefully paint the front sight with bright orange paint just so I know where the thing is at.  The gun is similar (though not the same) as this one: http://www.springfield-armory.com/products/1911-mc-operator-45-acp/

Oh man! The one you linked has the Tritium sights. PLEASE don't paint them! If I was closer I'd swap you my sights for yours. Mine have white dots, and I'd like some Tritium ones.

>Question:  Currently I have put 2 coats of Fiebing's Dye 4 USMC Black, and two coats of pure Neatsfoot oil (almost too much oil I found out).  I am puzzled what to finish it with.  Since this holster is for concealment, I don’t want a shiny glossy finish... I prefer a dull finish that will blend in to the shadows under my vest.  I have learned that wearing it without some kind of finish, the dye does rub off on my shirt and hands.  So I am going to have to finish this up with something.  If anyone has ideas for a "dull" finish, I am open for ideas.

I like the Mop-N-Glo finish. It's not really shiny, but definitely keeps the finish from rubbing off, and also is fairly inexpensive to make & apply.

There's several threads on here about how to mix & apply it.

 

 

[mantotohpa]

CowboyDan,

I will get some Mop-N-Glo.  I have read where other people use it.   

I am very pleased with the Tritium sights that came with this pistol. Also, concerning the front sight,  I plan to do a careful paint job, so I don’t cover up the Tritium sight.    I plan to paint The front sight carefully,  something like what they did here: http://pistol-training.com/archives/1575