Skirting vs strap/tool leather

[JAM]

Hi, all,

This may seem like a kindergarten question, but what is the difference between skirting leather and strap/tooling leather?

I know enough to only use good skirting leather on a saddle, but what is best for tooled non-saddle items like chaps panels, belts, and book covers? I'm not concerned with the cost in this question, just which leather is best for the non-saddle things, and why?

Also - slightly related question - do you always use natural skirting leather for saddles? Would you ever use golden or russet, etc? What is the difference?

Julia

[Go2Tex]

Don't know why nobody answered this yet, but I'll give it a shot. As far as I can determine, about the only difference between skirting and strap leather is that strap/tooling has been run through a splitter. When done wet, it tends to firm the leather and gives the back side a nice smooth, even appearance. Now, I suspect some tanneries might have a little different process they do on the strap sides to make it firmer, but I rather doubt many of them do, particularly the import stuff. Just my suspicions. I could be wrong, as usual. I know that Hermann Oak strap leather is the best I've seen but I don't know if they process it differently than skirting other than splitting it down. I've taken skirting straight off the back edge, split it down and it makes excellent straps. Other skirting becomes rather flemsy when split, by comparison. Of course, you can firm it up by wetting it and compressing the fibers with a rubbing tool/ slicker.

As far as natural vs golden, I use whatever the customer wants. I like natural the best for carving because you get a good contrast which gives more depth.

[bruce johnson]

Julia,

I missed this one too. I am pretty much with Brent here. It seems like the different tanneries each have their own process for making strap leather. Some may be nothing more than wet split, and others use compression. Some tanneries have strap sides which are firmer than "molding" sides. Probably has to do with how they process and compress it. I used to use Caldwell Moser for molding over picture frames because it was softer and molded easier than a similar weight I was getting of HO. I probably was getting sent strap sides of HO and the CM wasn't any more than split.

I have mostly used golden oak. I have used some russet. It has to do with how they color up. I talked to a couple guys who use the darker skirtings, and they say it takes more water and casing time compared to some other tannages.

[JAM]

Cool - it would have taken me years to figure this out on my own! You guys are the greatest!

Julia

[TroyWest]

My understanding, at least from Herman Oaks point of view, is that skirting stays in the tanning vats several weeks longer than strap. As a result, stap is a little firmer and has less stretch, which is why it is recommended for strap goods. Skirting or strap will work fine for your chap tops and other items.

I mainly build saddles, but ocassionally make chaps and simply block my tops out of firm skirting and take it down to the thickness I want with a band knife. That way I dont have to buy several weights of leathers.

I have built saddles out of all these, natural, golden, and chestnut. I prefer natural skirting. The chestnut, like Bruce said, takes a little longer to get wet and requires warmer water to do so. It will take less oil to make it a dark oiled saddle though. I buy Herman Oak by the roll,which is 10 sides. I like to order 5 rights and 5 lefts in order to block out a saddle with one left and one right. In years past, I had a customer who ordered saddles with latigo seat and fenders. They actually hold up quite well. He has ridden these for over 20 yrs.

A lot of cutters in years past were actually made out of strap leather to be thin, light and strong.

Hope that helps,

Troy