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I think I've got it! Many thanks to everyone!

I did each of these one at a time, and each one seemed to get me a bit closer:

  • Rethread the upper using only one of the holes in each thread guide plates
  • Wound a new bobbin full with thread, and with much higher tension on the winder (I didn't realize the winder tension disc was very loose before, so the winding was previously not tight or neat)
  • Used a #18 needle (I don't have any leather #19 needles)
  • Repositioned the thread controller to minimize the distance that the thread controller spring travels

A few other notes:

  • Part of the issue may be how sensitive the bobbin tension adjustment is -- I didn't realize how big a difference a small turn makes!
  • I measured the thread with a micrometer (the best I could manage -- it's hard to measure without compressing), and it was around 0.33mm -- so it's possible that it's #92 or #138. It is a brand new spool of A&E #92 from threadexchange, so I hope it's not mislabeled!
  • The bobbin tension still seems a bit tight, but I can live with this. I'll double-check the timing as Wiz mentioned
  • The bobbin is a bit sloppy in the case, but no different than the other various bobbins that came with the machine. I'm not sure how much tolerance is allowed. I'll probably just get a new set of bobbins, bobbin case spring, etc just to be sure

 

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