superchute Report post Posted January 31, 2008 here is a little peace of practice let me know what you think thanks Russell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Betty Report post Posted January 31, 2008 It looks like you are on your way. I'm not talented in the carving and stamping area, but dad always said practice, practice, practice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) Great start! For your edge bevels, overlap the strikes less. For most applications, overlap only 1/4 - 1/3 the width of the beveler, and it will smooth out a good bit as you walk it. For your backgrounding, I see a few 'open' areas where it looks like you missed a strike. You might want to try a pear shader for some of the backgrounding, and I always try to overlap the backgrounders too. I haven't done any floral work, so I don't feel qualified to critique that aspect of it. Overall, it looks very nice for your first try. Keep at it, and if you still have the template/ sketch that you worked with ( or just use the first piece as one), recarve the same image again. Compare what you've done to other Sheridan style carvings, and make the changes to your second piece. You'll surprise yourself with how much better the second is. Keep pounding the leather. Edited February 1, 2008 by TwinOaks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yaklady Report post Posted February 1, 2008 I hope people like you don't mind all the constructive criticism you get. I have a suggestion on your pear shading. One hit on the tool isn't enough. Note the length of the thumbprints you used on part of the pattern. Your pear shader should end up more like that. I like to start the shader by making a light impression where the shading will be. Start where you have yours, and walk it down toward the center of the flower, tapping lghtly as you go. The part of the impression closest to the flower center will be the lightest, while the edge of the petal will be the deepest. Go over the impression a few times, getting deeper each time, concentrating on the end near the edge. Keep in mind that there are no straight lines on flowers. Always curve the shader impression to fit the petal, the way your decorative cuts are going. See the shading you did on the long, slender leaves? That's how the rest of your shading should look. The same thing applies to your leaves. Don't point the shader toward the center vein, but rather curve it downwards toward the base of the leaf. Use the same method I described above. Once again, the deeper shading will be out at the edge. Your veiners need to go more with the contour of the leaf as well. Point the loose tip of the veiner more towards the point of the leaf so your impressions are going up rather than across. You've got an excellent start. Keep it up! Kathy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites