singer 111G156 removing the handwheel

[davemac2]

Greetings folks.  Fantastic Resource here.

I have a singer 111G156 machine I acquired a year ago but have just started to use it.  It is a well used machine but is running decent so far.  However the timing belt is very old and cracked and will likely break any day now.  I have a new belt and was going to change it but discovered that the position set screw and the upper shaft end bolt on the handwheel (bolt secures hand wheel I guess) are missing, and the only thing holding on the handwheel is the pointed set screw which I cannot budge.  It seems seized or someone put red locktite or something on it. 

Any recommendations on getting this loose?  I was going to try some heat with a heat gun for a few minutes and then try a 1/4" impact driver in reverse with a hardened flat bit on the set screw.  Maybe I need to be gentler to avoid destroying the set screw?

As well, does anyone know of a source for the missing set screw and bolt?

part #'s (I think):

set screw 350541C

position screw 350540C

end bolt (adjusting screw?)  350419X

 

thanks

Dave Mc

   

[Wizcrafts]

Use a torch with a very small flame on the frozen screw. The heat will loosen up the threads so it can be unscrewed.

[Uwe]

If there's LocTite (a variation on Superglue or Cyanoacrylate) involved, the heat from a torch will soften the glue - which is what Wiz was referring to, I think. Lacking a torch, Acetone (nail polish remover) may be worth a try. Just pour some into the threaded hole and let it sit overnight. It may dissolve the glue enough to let the screw go.

[DonInReno]

This normally works best with replaceable screwdriver bits, but with the deep hole if you have a second well fitting screwdriver you don’t mind sacrificing, by cutting off the handle, placing it correctly on the screw slot and giving it a moderate hammer love tap, it will most likely free up the screw.  It has to be metal on metal to shock the screw - hitting a plastic handle doesn’t do much.  I’m trying to think of an example of how much force to strike it with....breaking open a walnut is too much and cracking the shell of a peanut is too little.... This technique is used a lot by gunsmiths.  

As for heat -if you don’t have a torch even heating the entire handwheel with a blow drier until it’s too hot to touch will slightly expand it and take a little pressure off the screw.  

[davemac2]

ok thanks guys.  I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. I have a set of these driver bits coming in this Sat which should help with tapping it to shock it.

 

[davemac2]

Ok, success!   Came right out after a few wacks with a pin punch, some heating with a heat gun, a little wax and one of the new flathead drivers on an impact .  Now I need to figure out what thread these set scres are.  Can I assume all the nuts and bolts on this old Singer machine are imperial and not metric? 

The set screws seem to be a 1/4"-28 thread.  I want to make sure before I put a tap down the holes to clean them up.  Actually I just did some research and these set screws may in fact be 15/64"-28, Yikes! may need to re-drill and retap to 1/4-28 I guess.

As well, anyone know the thread size for the pulley end bolt that goes into the upper shaft?

thanks

 

Edited September 21, 2018 by davemac2

[R8R]

Yeah my understanding is Singer used a lot of thread specs that were very specific to Singer only. Someone else can chime in here  about it but careful re-tapping anything to "standard" as you know it.

 

For future reference, B'laster PB penetrating oil is the best I've used for freeing stuck threads where permanent Loctite is not involved. Often no hammering needed. Spray it, go have a sandwich, come back and things are freed up.

When red Loctite is used, a heat gun and cranking it to about 400 degrees Fahrenheit or more does the trick.

[JJN]

Sewing machines started out and continue to use hard to find threads. If you go to the hardware store small machine screws start at #2 and go up to #6, #8 and #10. after that they use fractional sizes like 1/4",  5/16" and so on. Sewing machines use fractional sizes for the small screws like 9/64" and 11/64" with all different threads per inch. You can find a description of many of the thread sizes and the appropriate tap number in the superior master catalog.

 

Edited September 21, 2018 by JJN
typo

[davemac2]

Yes I'm certain now these set screws are 15/64"-28 threads.  I found what appear to be equivalent consew 206RB parts and ordered those from SouthStar Supply rather than re-tap the handwheel.

Consew Parts:

Set screw 10576 
Set Screw  10579 
Balance wheel adjusting screw 19505 

thank you all.  

[DonInReno]

Awesome!  

[davemac2]

Just a follow up for others with a similar situation.  I did receive the consew specific parts yesterday.  The set screws appear to be the same (with the exception of them not being a cone shape tip but more conical) and I put the extra one into my handwheel without issue.  However the consew shaft end bolt does not fit the singer shaft at all.  I've seen other postings on the forum here from some of the experts that have said this bolt is not really necessary, so keep that in mind.  I will have to check my existing taps to see if one fits or maybe I'll try to thread one of the set screws into there to see if it is the same odd  15/64-28 thread size/pitch.