Okay, now I'm mad!

[Hilly]

I finally made a holster that I didn't want to throw in the trash right away. Although I like the natural look, I also like the look of a coat of neatsfoot. Sort of brings out the details without adding a ton of color. It's just very slightly darker than natural color. Can I just use a sealer over the oil? If so, what do you recommend? I have the super sheen, but is it compatible with the oil?

Also, I noticed a bunch of tiny, light colored spots on the leather, and it seems like little waxy spots. Stain and neatsfoot scrape right off of them with a fingernail. I'm hoping that sealer will stick, and keep the color from scraping off these tiny spots. Is there something that will clean the leather before I start tooling on my next project? How do these little spots get on the leather anyway? Is there a source that I can get leather from that I don't have to worry about stuff like this?

[TracyMoss]

what kind of leather did you use? Did you use any casing solution? I personally do not use a solution, although lots of people recommend it. I case my leather the old way, with just water, cover w/ plastic, wait.

[dbarleather]

I prefer the "natural" look of leather too. I set my leather out in the sun and let nature do the color change. I like to use either olive or neatsfoot oil to protect the leather....nothing more. I experience alot of people who think in order to keep the leather lasting year after year, they need to apply some type of "sealer". I strongly disagree. IMHO, leather needs to BREATH. It is going to age with time and that is what gives some items characteristic. I can't remember the last time I applied dye.

I'm not "knocking" anyones way of operation, just explaining what I do.

[Hilly]

what kind of leather did you use? Did you use any casing solution? I personally do not use a solution, although lots of people recommend it. I case my leather the old way, with just water, cover w/ plastic, wait.

I used plain old veg tanned leather from Tandy. I cased using water + a drop of dish detergent, covered w/plastic and waited. I think these spots came on the leather.

I prefer the "natural" look of leather too. I set my leather out in the sun and let nature do the color change. I like to use either olive or neatsfoot oil to protect the leather....nothing more. I experience alot of people who think in order to keep the leather lasting year after year, they need to apply some type of "sealer". I strongly disagree. IMHO, leather needs to BREATH. It is going to age with time and that is what gives some items characteristic. I can't remember the last time I applied dye. I'm not "knocking" anyones way of operation, just explaining what I do.

I don't think I'd use olive oil. It could become rancid and rot the leather IMO. Of course, I'm not sure what neatsfoot is made from.

[TracyMoss]

Well, I don,t mean to knock tandy leather, but I'm knocking tandy leather. I would go with something like Hermann Oak or Wickett & Craig if it were me. They make consistent quality leather. IMO Hermann Oak is best for most items, like Saddles, Tack, Etc. However, W & C has a softer temper and burnishes and colors really nice for the smaller items like belts, gift items etc. If you want a quality product, buy quality leather. IMHO you just can't find that at tandy's.

[bruce johnson]

Hilly,

Don't panic. If the spots were on your leather initially, I would think you might see some differences in initial absorption when you cased it, maybe not. First off, if your neatsfoot oil ever got cold and solidified, it will get little waxy flecks in it. Heat it up enough and these will melt back into solution. If you apply it and they haven't, they just sit on the surface in little waxy globs. No big deal, either warm it up in the house or hit them with a little heat. I use a quick wave of my paint stripping gun. It will even out. No biggie. To answer another question, neatsfoot oil now is reported to be pressed hogfat oil. I have used it for years. I have used olive oil too. I still use it on all my reins. I have several headstalls treated with olive oil 20 years old, I still use them. Subject of another debate that we probably won't change many minds on. Hasn't happened in most previous discussions here and in other groups.

On the subject of Supersheen over oil, go for it once the oil is even. I have also done this almost from day one. I use either Leathersheen from Feibings or Supersheen. If you want to use a finish coat, do it. I have had no problems using it on oiled leather. I have applied it over vegtan, Diamond tan, chap, workchap, Siegel's greasy USA latigo (once I melted the waxy dressing into it), most everything. Every personal item I make gets it - wallets, belts, planners, purses, briefcases, ropebags, placemats. Stuff that will never see sun, and stuff that will live in it. Rained on, spilled on, hit with the sprinkler, sweat, and the water truck. I use other finishes or no finishes too, but the Sheens are my go-to's. A light wipe with a sponge, let it almost dry, hit it again. The placemats might get 6 coats on the using side. They might feel a little like plastic, but they wipe right off. Most stuff gets 2-3 light coats. My experience.

[TracyMoss]

Neats foot oil ( Neat's Foot Oil) is from pressed cattle hooves to include the bones. "Neat" is the old English word for cattle. Hence, cattle's foot oil. That said, today there are alot of petroleum based neats foot oils out there due to the loose specification guidelines set by the government. There are also different grades. IMO, one should not use anything other than "ultra prime". I have a background in the wholesale leather supply industry as well as my other experiences.

[ClayB]

Well, I don,t mean to knock tandy leather, but I'm knocking tandy leather. I would go with something like Hermann Oak or Wickett & Craig if it were me. They make consistent quality leather. IMO Hermann Oak is best for most items, like Saddles, Tack, Etc. However, W & C has a softer temper and burnishes and colors really nice for the smaller items like belts, gift items etc. If you want a quality product, buy quality leather. IMHO you just can't find that at tandy's.

I have been using mostly Herman Oak, and used a little Wickett and Craig and both are really nice leather. The stuff you get in Tandy kits isn't all that fun to work with but.... Tandy did start selling some new leather that is supposed to be like the old Live Oak brand they made many years ago. I got a side of it, and just carved a small piece of it so far, but it seems to me it's pretty nice stuff. It's probably comparable in price to HO or W&C (if bought through dealers) but for some people, it might be a good option if they have a Tandy locally. I haven't seen the stuff advertised, but I called Clay Miller in Rapid City and asked for "the good stuff" and he sent it to me.

[Art]

Hi Tracy,

I got some samples of leather from Tandy at the Ft. Worth IFoLG show that were excellent. Just really good veg tan. I think they called it "Royal Meadow" but I can't be sure; they were quite proud of it. I looked through all of their sample pieces and they were very consistent, so much so that I could not select pieces that were better than others. Nevertheless, I will not buy leather from Tandy unless I go there and inspect it. If they can provide that grade consistently though it should work very well for them. It is comparable in price to the best USA tooling leathers, about $7 or so a foot (reseller price), so no real bargain, but you should expect to pay for quality.

Art

Well, I don,t mean to knock tandy leather, but I'm knocking tandy leather. I would go with something like Hermann Oak or Wickett & Craig if it were me. They make consistent quality leather. IMO Hermann Oak is best for most items, like Saddles, Tack, Etc. However, W & C has a softer temper and burnishes and colors really nice for the smaller items like belts, gift items etc. If you want a quality product, buy quality leather. IMHO you just can't find that at tandy's.

[AlcoveShop]

I used plain old veg tanned leather from Tandy. I cased using water + a drop of dish detergent, covered w/plastic and waited. I think these spots came on the leather.I don't think I'd use olive oil. It could become rancid and rot the leather IMO. Of course, I'm not sure what neatsfoot is made from.

I'll chime in on this one too; its the import stuff they sell; Start digging into the term "corrected" and contemplate the fact that these leathers come from a place that "don't have th' oak trees" and you'll probably want to start going domestic. I dropped the whole import line and went that way, and never had a problem since. (Dont belive the propaganda that domestic leather is outrageously priced compared to import; its not if you buy it from the right places.) The hardest thing for me selling the import stuff was the nauseating feeling that I couldnt stand behind the leather leaving the door, and praying that I wouldnt get that phone inquiry why the stuff looked so bloody crappy or inconsistent. Try Wickett & Craig or Hermann Oak- youll never go back.

Hi Tracy,I got some samples of leather from Tandy at the Ft. Worth IFoLG show that were excellent. Just really good veg tan. I think they called it "Royal Meadow" but I can't be sure; they were quite proud of it. I looked through all of their sample pieces and they were very consistent, so much so that I could not select pieces that were better than others. Nevertheless, I will not buy leather from Tandy unless I go there and inspect it. If they can provide that grade consistently though it should work very well for them. It is comparable in price to the best USA tooling leathers, about $7 or so a foot (reseller price), so no real bargain, but you should expect to pay for quality.Art

Keep in mind these were sent to a show for impressions sake. You can find domestics for $5 or less a square foot- and the more folk support the domestic places, the more often youll see those prices.

[TracyMoss]

Hi Tracy,

I got some samples of leather from Tandy at the Ft. Worth IFoLG show that were excellent. Just really good veg tan. I think they called it "Royal Meadow" but I can't be sure; they were quite proud of it. I looked through all of their sample pieces and they were very consistent, so much so that I could not select pieces that were better than others. Nevertheless, I will not buy leather from Tandy unless I go there and inspect it. If they can provide that grade consistently though it should work very well for them. It is comparable in price to the best USA tooling leathers, about $7 or so a foot (reseller price), so no real bargain, but you should expect to pay for quality.

Art

Well, I'm glad that it worked well for you, but "royal Meadow" just isn't up to par for me. I have used tandy leather, IMO way over priced. If I wanted import quality I would buy it from my supplier at around $4.50 S.F. or $105.00 a side. I have actually been quoted $9.00S.F. at a Tandy Store, and I have a business license and I am in their computer. Let's calculate $7 * AVG. 24 ft = $168.00. Hermann Oak Avg. $154.00 medium skirting. I think I'll stay with the better( undisputable ) and in this case cheaper option H.O.

[howardb]

I finally made a holster that I didn't want to throw in the trash right away. Although I like the natural look, I also like the look of a coat of neatsfoot. Sort of brings out the details without adding a ton of color. It's just very slightly darker than natural color. Can I just use a sealer over the oil? If so, what do you recommend? I have the super sheen, but is it compatible with the oil?

Also, I noticed a bunch of tiny, light colored spots on the leather, and it seems like little waxy spots. Stain and neatsfoot scrape right off of them with a fingernail. I'm hoping that sealer will stick, and keep the color from scraping off these tiny spots. Is there something that will clean the leather before I start tooling on my next project? How do these little spots get on the leather anyway? Is there a source that I can get leather from that I don't have to worry about stuff like this?

Not sure where they come from, but I have some leftovers with spots on them. Maybe skeeter bites on the live animal? They are visible on the dry leather, so I've avoided them so far. I know Oxalic acid and deglazer are suppose to clean just about anything from the leather and may be worth a try.

If it is an artifact in the leather (bug bite, etc) I don't think anything will work. That's sort of like scar tissue and will always react to finishes differently than the rest of the cow. If it's water spots or something, try the cleaners.

Brent

[Randyc]

Hilly

I use what ever vegatable tan I have on hand for my design and prototype work. I save my good hide for the stuff I hope to sell.

I don't know the type of holster you built, but if you built a formed concealed carry holster for a handgun, the experts don't recommend using neatsfoot oil on gunlather. This treatment will soften the leather and lesson the weapon retention abilities of your holster.

I too like the natural look of my concealed carry holsters. I use Fieblings tankote for my protective finish. It only darkens the leather a little. Several of my "natural finished" holsters are posted over on the holsters/belts section of this forum.

Best Wishes

Randy