Okay, now I'm mad!

[TracyMoss]

Hi Tracy,

I got some samples of leather from Tandy at the Ft. Worth IFoLG show that were excellent. Just really good veg tan. I think they called it "Royal Meadow" but I can't be sure; they were quite proud of it. I looked through all of their sample pieces and they were very consistent, so much so that I could not select pieces that were better than others. Nevertheless, I will not buy leather from Tandy unless I go there and inspect it. If they can provide that grade consistently though it should work very well for them. It is comparable in price to the best USA tooling leathers, about $7 or so a foot (reseller price), so no real bargain, but you should expect to pay for quality.

Art

Well, I'm glad that it worked well for you, but "royal Meadow" just isn't up to par for me. I have used tandy leather, IMO way over priced. If I wanted import quality I would buy it from my supplier at around $4.50 S.F. or $105.00 a side. I have actually been quoted $9.00S.F. at a Tandy Store, and I have a business license and I am in their computer. Let's calculate $7 * AVG. 24 ft = $168.00. Hermann Oak Avg. $154.00 medium skirting. I think I'll stay with the better( undisputable ) and in this case cheaper option H.O.

[howardb]

I finally made a holster that I didn't want to throw in the trash right away. Although I like the natural look, I also like the look of a coat of neatsfoot. Sort of brings out the details without adding a ton of color. It's just very slightly darker than natural color. Can I just use a sealer over the oil? If so, what do you recommend? I have the super sheen, but is it compatible with the oil?

Also, I noticed a bunch of tiny, light colored spots on the leather, and it seems like little waxy spots. Stain and neatsfoot scrape right off of them with a fingernail. I'm hoping that sealer will stick, and keep the color from scraping off these tiny spots. Is there something that will clean the leather before I start tooling on my next project? How do these little spots get on the leather anyway? Is there a source that I can get leather from that I don't have to worry about stuff like this?

Not sure where they come from, but I have some leftovers with spots on them. Maybe skeeter bites on the live animal? They are visible on the dry leather, so I've avoided them so far. I know Oxalic acid and deglazer are suppose to clean just about anything from the leather and may be worth a try.

If it is an artifact in the leather (bug bite, etc) I don't think anything will work. That's sort of like scar tissue and will always react to finishes differently than the rest of the cow. If it's water spots or something, try the cleaners.

Brent

[Randyc]

Hilly

I use what ever vegatable tan I have on hand for my design and prototype work. I save my good hide for the stuff I hope to sell.

I don't know the type of holster you built, but if you built a formed concealed carry holster for a handgun, the experts don't recommend using neatsfoot oil on gunlather. This treatment will soften the leather and lesson the weapon retention abilities of your holster.

I too like the natural look of my concealed carry holsters. I use Fieblings tankote for my protective finish. It only darkens the leather a little. Several of my "natural finished" holsters are posted over on the holsters/belts section of this forum.

Best Wishes

Randy