Too Much Dye?

[particle]

So, I decided to try a different dye application method for this batch of holsters I'm working on. I ordered some wool, clipped off a 1"x2" patch, then applied my dye with the wool patch. I'm using Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes. When the dye dried, I had darker portions around the edges (where the dye dripped over the edge and soaked into the back) and along the center of my pieces where I dyed the back-side that would be exposed when the holster is formed (the interior, non-lined surface of the holster).

Fearing that 80% of my pieces were botched and would have to be re-done, I re-dyed them - but this time I dip-dyed them.

This morning, I was pleasantly surprised to find that most of the pieces will be usable now. The coloring is not nearly as even as I get with airbrushing, but that's another line of discussion. A lot of the orders have airbrushed accents around the edges, and a couple wanted their holsters antiqued anyway!

The only problem I see now is that several of the pieces have a pearlescent sheen to them. I assume this is simply the pigment resting on the surface, heavier in some spots, and is causing it to reflect light in a funny way. Should I worry about this? Or is there anything I can do to eliminate it? I tried buffing one of the pieces this morning, and the sheen was still there.

I'm still VERY early on in the build process. I still have to glue, sew, form, oil and finish - perhaps the sheen will go away once they are dunked in water, rubbed for forming, oiled and finished.

Anyone have any tips to make sure I don't miss a step that could have fixed this?

[dirtclod]

Try buffing them off with a paper towel or piece of cloth. I have to do that on every thing i make that's black.

[particle]

I did try buffing, but it didn't eliminate the sheen.

[troop]

I wrestled with the dye issues for awhile, then started getting it drum dyed from the seller. very much worth it in both the money it costs to get it dyed and the time saved waiting for the dye to dry. air brushing does apply the dye more evenly and leaves less of a chance of the blotchiness, but i have found i need put it on extra thick with the airbrush to get decent penetration. if money is not an issue, i'd opt to get the leather pre dyed. it is more uniformed color and saves money and time in the long run.

Tony

[The Grizzly]

I've had that happen so far with Pro Oil Black and Light Brown. The black has a reddish/brown sheen to it and the light brown gets a green cast. Buffing doesn't remove all of it so I tried a horsehair brush, that helped a lot. It didn't get it all though, so I took a cloth with a little neats foot oil on it and wiped the sheath down, that removed the odd color sheen.

[cem]

I have this happen quite a bit with the Birdsall (Australian Dye) brown, it goes away when you apply conditioner either neatsfoot, Bick 4 or Lexol all work fine the only way I've found to elimate it before you get to this step is to airbrush.

[particle]

Thanks fellas - I buffed them down some more tonight, and am moving forward with the build. I was hopeful that an application of oil and finish would minimize/eliminate it, so it's good to hear your feedback.