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Crossdraw Holster

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I have a friend that wants me to make him a crossdraw holster for his ParaOrdinances .45 All the crossdraw holsters I have looked at are Cowboy rigs Can someone give me a push in the right direction in making a conceal carry crossdraw holster?

Mark

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You pattern the holster exactly like you would a strong side holster- you just change the angle. The construction is pretty much the same, but you will need to make some allowances for how much grip you have available when holstered. I DO suggest oversizing the pattern while in the design phase, because there will be some 'adjustments' to the anchoring points for your clip/loop attachments.

Just like other IWB holsters, you'll want to pay close attention to the molding for retention.

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Mark

Is your friend wanting an "IWB" crossdraw? They can be hard to access, depending on his/her size and arm length. Several years ago, I made a crossdraw for newspaper sports editor. He wanted it easily accessible, outside the pants and fast draw. There were no "safeties" on the holster, just the angle and tight molding to hold the gun in place. So it depends on what he/she wants. Just like Twinoaks said pay close attention to the molding.

You might also post in the holster section http://leatherworker...hp?showforum=29 for addition ideas.

Edited by BillinOK

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My cross draw.jpgHere is one I made for myself. It is my second holster so it isn't the prettiest, but is functional. Hope these pics will helpMy Cross draw back.jpg

post-13533-12661753076_thumb.jpg

post-13533-12661753159_thumb.jpg

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I have a friend that wants me to make him a crossdraw holster for his ParaOrdinances .45 All the crossdraw holsters I have looked at are Cowboy rigs Can someone give me a push in the right direction in making a conceal carry crossdraw holster?

Mark

The easiest to make is a simple pancake that uses 3 belt holes (slots). The rear slot is always used, . . . the top front slot is situated for an approximate 15 degree forward cant, . . . the bottom front slot puts the weapon on a 30 degree rear cant, . . . the rear cant is used for the cross draw carry.

If you start out with two circles of 7 oz veggie tan, about 12 inches in diameter, . . . put a 1/4 in dowel on the sight track of the weapon, . . . sew a straight line from top to bottom about 3 inches in from the right side (sew both pieces together), . . . you can then mold the rest of the pieces together around the weapon, . . . after absolutely soaking it in 130 degree or so hot water (put a few drops of liquid dish washing liquid in the water, . . . helps wet the leather wetter).

Let it dry, . . . then cut out the parts you don't want, . . . leaving a rear sweat shield, . . . space for belt slots on both sides, . . . sew up the side around the bottom of the gun, . . . punch the slots, . . . sew up the edges, . . . trim the edges, . . . burnish the edges, . . . finish the holster.

Do the thing in cardboard (the type you have on the back of a tablet, . . . about 1/16" thick) first. Surprisingly, . . . you can sew it, . . . mold it, . . . and do all the stuff to that kind of cardboard first, . . . then go back and do it in leather, . . . it'll work.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Thanks guys this will get me thinking in the right direction.

Mark

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