Steven Kelley Report post Posted May 10, 2011 I've been searching through old posts about dip dyeing versus other methods, and am going to give it a try. I'm having several problems with my current technique. I've been using an airbrush to apply dye, and I much prefer dyeing after assembly and forming, because it's just easier and less messy. The issue I'm running in to, with dyeing before assembly, is that when I sand and bevel the edges (after assembly), I have to redye the edges, and when I cut the stitching groove, I have to redye the groove. Will dip dyeing before assembly get enough dye into the leather to lessen the need for all the touch up dye work later in the process? Is dip dyeing AFTER assembly and forming ok to do? When dip dyeing, do you just dip and remove immediately, or leave it submerged for a few seconds? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted May 10, 2011 I've been searching through old posts about dip dyeing versus other methods, and am going to give it a try. I'm having several problems with my current technique. I've been using an airbrush to apply dye, and I much prefer dyeing after assembly and forming, because it's just easier and less messy. The issue I'm running in to, with dyeing before assembly, is that when I sand and bevel the edges (after assembly), I have to redye the edges, and when I cut the stitching groove, I have to redye the groove. Will dip dyeing before assembly get enough dye into the leather to lessen the need for all the touch up dye work later in the process? Is dip dyeing AFTER assembly and forming ok to do? When dip dyeing, do you just dip and remove immediately, or leave it submerged for a few seconds? I tried all the different methods and dip dying prior to assembly and molding works the best, also I find with the oil dyes it's way less messy for some reason. I used to dip dye them after they were formed for black holsters but I had issues with the dye penetrating evenly in certain spots. I never need to redye the stitching groves since the dye penetrates all the way through instead of just on the surface. I do redye the edges but only because I usually dye them darker, if it's a black holster I generally don't need to redye them. I leave it submerged for a few seconds, the longer you let it in the more it penetrates. Be prepared to buy ALOT more dye though. That's what works for me, it's all trial and error really. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tac Report post Posted May 12, 2011 I dip dye in oil dye after construction and wet molding. Once the holster is dry from the wet molding, I dip it for a brief second or two and let the excess dye drip off, then hang them up to allow the dye to dry. Couple things to remember.... this only works if you want your thread the same color as the holster and if you have any metal hardware in the holster construction (snaps, rivets, etc.), you will have to wipe the dye off before you start handling the holster or it will rub off on everything... My dos centavos... -Tac Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 16, 2011 I have dyed the leather first, . . . I have dyed the leather last, . . . and I don't find any real difference either way. I finally settled on making it first, then dying. No real reason, . . . just do it that way, . . . it works for me. Lou Alessi always advised that he dyed first, . . . drum dying was his technique. If it works for you, . . . do it, . . . Kinda like the old gunfight thingy: 10 years from now no one will remember the tactics, stance, particular ammo, . . . only who survived. Doing leatherwork is similar: 10 years from now no one will care if it was dyed first, last, or if at all, . . . just so long as it is still working. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
