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On previous projects I've stained the piece, then put a resist on then use Fiebings Antique paste and rub on using a plastic glove. I've always been confused about one part though. Should we be buffing the resist or just put it on?

Anyway hope this part helps a little

how do you guys apply the antique. when do you apply it as well.

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:unsure: What kind of antique solution are you going to be using? different kinds of antiquing will be used in different ways. Some you will want to leave on and let dry some you will want to get off right away. There are several other things that you will want to take into account. :feedback:

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:unsure: What kind of antique solution are you going to be using? different kinds of antiquing will be used in different ways. Some you will want to leave on and let dry some you will want to get off right away. There are several other things that you will want to take into account. :feedback:

honestly i dont know. i didnt know there were diffrent kinds. what do you use and what would you sugest. i have only seen it used and i have a basket weave project i would like to try it on. thanks

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This is my experience:

My preference is Tandy's antique stain (the liquid). When your project is done and dry, apply the stain by pouring it on a cloth or sheepwool scrap, then rub it on the project. Apply generously. Wait about 5 minutes and rub the excess off.

Sometimes, with basketweaving, I find it needs a little extra rubbed into the low parts of the stamping, after the first coat, to give it the best detail. Then rub gently. If you rub too hard, with that sort of stamping, you'll rub the excess right out of the crevices. Now, if it's regular tooling/carving, I find it's not so hard to keep it in the cracks...

I've used the new saddle tan hi-liter they've got out, and it's pretty nice too.

Sometimes, I just pour the stain right on the project and then rub it around with a damp sponge, but not all stains work well with that (some leave dark patches where the stain first hit)

That's my .02

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I like the effect that Feibing's Gel Antique produces, but I've had trouble with antique on motorcycle leather washing away very quickly...last item I did was a fender bib...thought I'd try cova colors (3 coats), 1 application of gel antique filling in the impressed lettering, finished with 3 airbrushed coats of Tandy Super Shene...antiquing went away the first time the bike was washed...bummer. Luckily it was for a friend.

What am I doing wrong? Is there a better way of getting that two-toned antique effect on motorcycle leather?

TIA.

--Phil

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My experience with the paste is similar: it got spotty on me in the rain. (where the drops hit, it spotted) I love how easily it goes on, and it looks really nice....'til it gets rained on!

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Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you, I have been out of the loop for a little while.

I if you are using the new Tandy antique you will want to apply it with a dry paper towel and then quickly remove it with another dry towel. If you are using Feibings paste or the old Tandy antique you will want to apply it liberally and let it dry. Only let it dry for about 5 to 10 minutes then whip it with a dry paper towel then whip clan with a damp paper towel ( some people use a sponge, I think that paper towel are cheaper and leave less mess). The dry towel will help spread the color evenly, the damp towel will remove the excess antique. Good luck and again I am sorry for the delay.

Chuckboy

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I add some Raven oil (spirit based dye) to the antique mix in a bowl . depending on how strong the colour is that i want will determine how much dye I put in the mix . Stir well . Paint it on with a brush nice and thick , backwards and forwards , backwards and forwards till you notice its starting to thicken or get sticky. Then mottle , dab the brush staight up and down till there are no streaks , just a nice even coating . The antique is a carrier for the dye and the longer its on the more dye will leach out and into the leather . If the antique has been applied unevenly , the dye will leach out accordingly and look uneven when the antique is rubbed off . As soon as the antique is dry I rubb it off evenly with methylated spirits and a soft cloth . Experiment !

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I add some Raven oil (spirit based dye) to the antique mix in a bowl . depending on how strong the colour is that i want will determine how much dye I put in the mix . Stir well . Paint it on with a brush nice and thick , backwards and forwards , backwards and forwards till you notice its starting to thicken or get sticky. Then mottle , dab the brush staight up and down till there are no streaks , just a nice even coating . The antique is a carrier for the dye and the longer its on the more dye will leach out and into the leather . If the antique has been applied unevenly , the dye will leach out accordingly and look uneven when the antique is rubbed off . As soon as the antique is dry I rubb it off evenly with methylated spirits and a soft cloth . Experiment !

Any experiences I had in the past with Raven oil were lousy as it rubbed off on things, Dave. I guess you must have mastered the way to apply it.

Tony.

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Theres only one way to use raven oil . Carefully . Raven oil by itself leaves a bloom , which is similar to an oxide and must be rubbed off .

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I have had issues in applying antique paste as well.

Finally Johanna clued me in on a way that DOES work for me. Apply in small areas with fur. I cant find wool, so I use the Rabbits fur tandy sells as wool... apply in small areas, and when I reapply from the jar to the fur, I start back on an area I have already covered. go over the whole area that i want covered and then buff it and clean off anything that was left behind (on the smooth areas) and then cover with my finish. I have not had the opportunity to use this on a carved piece. But it works great with smooth leathers.

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