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RunningRoan

Machine sewing: finishing/securing the stitching

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I'd like to hear everyone's methods on finishing your machine stitching. What holds securely, but still looks nice?

I'm always looking for a better way...I am currently pulling the loose threads to the backside of the project, snipping them close and using a dab of Super Glue. The glue leaves a hard little knob that I don't really like (try to hide it where it won't rub or be seen), but seems to hold pretty good. I saw the trick posted earlier that pulls one of the threads into the center of the leather and hides it...then do I use a bit of glue to secure it? Any suggestions?

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I'd like to hear everyone's methods on finishing your machine stitching. What holds securely, but still looks nice?

I'm always looking for a better way...I am currently pulling the loose threads to the backside of the project, snipping them close and using a dab of Super Glue. The glue leaves a hard little knob that I don't really like (try to hide it where it won't rub or be seen), but seems to hold pretty good. I saw the trick posted earlier that pulls one of the threads into the center of the leather and hides it...then do I use a bit of glue to secure it? Any suggestions?

Hi RunningRoan, I've seen people use a thread burner to melt the thread just inside the hole. It looked good to me. Keep in mind, that if you use the back tack technique that I told you about,( turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle bottoms out, then continue to turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle comes up 1/4 of an inch, then put the reverse lever all the way up, then do your back tack for 3 or 4 stitches. The machine will sew in the same holes that you sewed forward in for a perfect, uniform back tack), then use the thread burner after you trimmed your threads. Steve

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Hi RunningRoan, I've seen people use a thread burner to melt the thread just inside the hole. It looked good to me. Keep in mind, that if you use the back tack technique that I told you about,( turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle bottoms out, then continue to turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle comes up 1/4 of an inch, then put the reverse lever all the way up, then do your back tack for 3 or 4 stitches. The machine will sew in the same holes that you sewed forward in for a perfect, uniform back tack), then use the thread burner after you trimmed your threads. Steve

Ah ha! This sounds better than my Super Glue method! Snip the threads close, then burn them? Or hold the threads and use the burner to cut them? Any suggestions for a good thread burner? I did a quick Google search and found quite a few jewelery supply places that had some neat looking ones.

Missed you at Denver WESA this year...

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Ah ha! This sounds better than my Super Glue method! Snip the threads close, then burn them? Or hold the threads and use the burner to cut them? Any suggestions for a good thread burner? I did a quick Google search and found quite a few jewelery supply places that had some neat looking ones.

Missed you at Denver WESA this year...

Heather, missed you too! Go to my website, leathermachineco.com I have one also. Thanks, Steve

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I turn my work to back track but stitch very close beside my stitching as I don't want the needle piercing the thread and weakening or breaking it. I bring the top thread to the back, snip and add a drop of carpenter's glue.

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I just use reverse on the machine if machine sewn. If hand sewn I run the thread between two holes several times and knot as close to one hole as a I can...of course find the most inconspicuous place you can for this method.

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