Newbie Question

[OtisEllieLg]

Hi Everyone,

I am pretty new to working with leather and just wanted to get into it as a hobby, so I decided to visit our local Tandy

Leather and pick up a few tools and start playing around.

So far its been fun and now Ive got a few questions that I was hoping you would be able to help me out with.

1. The first item is dying and conditioning the leather. I bought a side of veg tan leather and after talking the guy at

the store he suggest that I use a Water Stain so I bought Eco-Flo for leather water stain, and as well some Professional

Clear Matte Finish by Eco-Flo. One thing he didnt really go over was the proper was to use these products and in what order

and steps should be taken.

I have found that when wet the edges of the leather to burnish it or make some bends in the leather it really dries it out

where I make the folds, what can be done to re condition the leather and make it supple in those areas again.

So yeah any tips on using these products and finishing veg tan would be much appreciated.

2. The second question I have is regarding setting snaps I find that sometimes when setting the snaps the post bends over

causing the snap to shift over slightly and causing it not to be centered on the strap anymore. I just wondering if anyone

has any tips on setting snaps so they dont move when hammering them in place.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to being a part of the community here.

[thekid77]

Hi Everyone,

I am pretty new to working with leather and just wanted to get into it as a hobby, so I decided to visit our local Tandy

Leather and pick up a few tools and start playing around.

So far its been fun and now Ive got a few questions that I was hoping you would be able to help me out with.

1. The first item is dying and conditioning the leather. I bought a side of veg tan leather and after talking the guy at

the store he suggest that I use a Water Stain so I bought Eco-Flo for leather water stain, and as well some Professional

Clear Matte Finish by Eco-Flo. One thing he didnt really go over was the proper was to use these products and in what order

and steps should be taken.

I have found that when wet the edges of the leather to burnish it or make some bends in the leather it really dries it out

where I make the folds, what can be done to re condition the leather and make it supple in those areas again.

So yeah any tips on using these products and finishing veg tan would be much appreciated.

2. The second question I have is regarding setting snaps I find that sometimes when setting the snaps the post bends over

causing the snap to shift over slightly and causing it not to be centered on the strap anymore. I just wondering if anyone

has any tips on setting snaps so they dont move when hammering them in place.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to being a part of the community here.

Hi there! Welcome to the trade I would be happy to share my experience with you....as you will see, in leather work, there are lots of different ways to go about doing things....just experiment!!! :D

First, about dyeing the leather....I do have experience using the Tandy Black Waterstain....it's great stuff....unlike the eco flo line of dyes, the waterstain, after allowing it to dry for about a day, really sticks to the leather well.....also, after applying the dye, while the leather is damp, it's a good time to apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil to the surface to the leather....this will help keep the leather supple and help to prevent cracking and wrinkling if the leather is to be folded later...

after the dye is dry, just take a wool cloth and buff the surface of the leather to remove any residual dye particles left on the surface....

At first, I used the eco flo finishes, but now I use acrylic resolene....it provides, in my opinion a much better finish in terms of look, durability, and water resistance. Fiebings makes it...

To use the acrylic resolene, I mix it 1 part resolene to 1 part water...if you don't dilute the resolene, it's very easy to apply too thick a coat, which will lead to the finish looking like plastic and cracking easily....to get better results, the resolene needs to be built up in very light coats (being allowed to dry completely in between each coat).....so, after diluting it 1:1 water/resolene, just take an old cotton t shirt, fold it up into a 3" square, and put it up to the mouth of the bottle with the resolene and tip the bottle onto the shirt a couple times, then blot the shirt on a paper towel lightly....then apply the resolene with smooth swirls onto your leather piece. Allow the first coat to dry for an hour or two. Additional coats can be applied depending on whether you want a matte finish, or a more glossy finish)...after applying your coat(s) of resolene, and allowing to dry, just buff the surface of the leather with a cotton cloth and the resolene will take a polish...

About setting the snaps...

-first, make sure that your snap is properly sized for the thickness of leather you are trying to set it to. If there is too much post sticking up above the leather, it is easy for it to bend off kilter when you're trying to set it.....

-second, make sure the hole you are punching is properly sized for the post of the snap (there should be no wiggle room)

-third, I find that the inside edge of the tandy snaps tend to be rolled inward slightly, which can make setting them more difficult.....you can take a scratch awl and rotate the awl against the inner edge of the snaps and it will flare the metal outward a little (kinda starting the roll of the metal)....doing this makes life much easier....

-fourth, don't try to set the snap in two or three hits, make sure you are tapping lightly with the hammer and rotating the setter tool as you are tapping....being in a hurry in leather work is a recipe for disaster...

hope this helps!!!

Edited March 7, 2015 by thekid77

[TinkerTailor]

Check the tip of your snap tool, the tip may not be round and even.(always check any tandy tool for that matter) I had to take one back that had a weird shaped tip, and wouldn't work right, crooked as a steak from a one eyed butcher. Also, I found that the bigger setters are waayyyy easier to hold straight and true that those little tiny ones that come in some of the tool/hardware sets. Those little things are garbage. When I was starting, I also discovered that the little bottom die/anvil included in the starter sets would sometimes shift or sink into the wood I was using underneath causing crooked snaps and rivets. I got a 4" x4" by 3/8 inch thick steel plate from a welders cut-off pile to set flat backed hardware on, and to place under the proper anvil for grommets etc That little plate fits in any toolbox and is still in my portable fix-it kit. It has saved many a tabletop. Tip: Drill a hole in it to back up the leather when you are pushing an awl through or for under where you need to remove a bad rivet. (you will need to eventually)