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About thekid77

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  1. thanks everyone for the help....i realized that my issue was that I had always laid my patterns out on an 8 spi grid, which works because inches divide evenly into eighths......not so w 3mm..... so I just needed to work on a 3mm grid.....now everything lines up perfectly... again, thank you so much for your help, everyone who took time to read and reply....I appreciate it!!
  2. hi Fred, that actually is a 9 point spi grid - the tines on the chisel do not line up to it.... that's the issue that I'm having unfortunately
  3. Hello leatherworker fam, I make wallets and like to create my patterns on 8 line per inch grid paper (makes it easy to lay out stitching/make the stitching holes land where I want them to)... My issue is that this has never been a problem, as the chisel (Tandy Diamond) points match the lines on 8 line per inch grid paper exactly (see 8 spi photo)... I purchased a 9 spi chisel (different brand) a while back, and the tips of the points do not match the lines on a 9 line per inch grid at all (see 9 spi photo)... I am at a bit of a loss for what to do....if I can't work on a grid I can't reliably lay out the holes for stitching, straddling t slots, etc.... The Tandy chisel lines up to the grid perfectly, but the tool makes huge holes, and the angle of the holes is extremely flat.... For those of you that use stitching chisels, are the teeth evenly spaced between each other? I am at a total loss for what to do...
  4. wow, thank you so much for all of the info! I have heard of finishing "between" the layers, just never done it myself....and it didn't occur to me that that is what may be going on in the case of the photograph... I actually prefer poly thread, it's just that seeing the way these straps were done w linen piqued my curiosity as the ends of linen can't be burned to finish,and the maker stated that there was no glue used either.....I think process of elimination leaves a knot.....because I think a single backstitch left by itself would definitely work its way free over time, and I don't believe a maker of such a fine looking product would leave that to chance.... Thank you also for the link to the thread and to all of the wonderful content creators!! I have watched and loved Nigel and Ian's content for many yrs now.....time to revisit them and the others to learn more! Thanks again for sharing the best of the best!!
  5. Thank you Zulu!! I was told by a maker that they don't use any glue, and they were unwilling to share their technique. I get it, but I've always felt that this community has been very generous and open, even those who are in business for themselves have been willing to help (in my personal experience)... I really appreciate y'all taking the time to help me!! Any idea how they might be doing this without glue?
  6. hello leatherworker fam, please see photo - this is a watch strap stitched with linen thread..... I understand how the stitch is started, one hole back, stitch forward, then back, but..... how is the line of stitching ended?? you can't burn the end because it's linen, and only 1 back stitch seems like it would work itself loose over time..... can anyone explain?
  7. Thank you very much Arturo!! I appreciate you sharing hey Mike! I will have to try Ron's edger.....I've heard really good things about them
  8. hello friends, has anyone beveled the edge of thin leathers with sandpaper (around 400 grit) or Emory board?? I struggle to control the depth of the bevel with my common edgers, and find it easier and more controlled to just sand off the sharp corners with sandpaper or emory..... anybody else do this?? thoughts??
  9. really nice work!! do you make the holes w a sewing machine and then handstitch??
  10. this is beautiful work and materials.....I haven't done much leatherwork in the past few years and it looks like some really amazing types of leather have become available......love that pull up look... keep sharing!!
  11. Thanks for your advice Larry, I am going to stay away from the roller idea....seems like frustration and disaster waiting to happen lol...since the last comment, I've had luck swirly on a thin coat of resolene cut 40:60 resolene to water, applying it with one of the high density sponges from Tandy in smal circular motions.
  12. Hi Rocko, thank you for the reply unfortunately I put the clear coat on the pieces already...but I dyed a new piece and folded it up without the clearcoat to get the distressing out of the leather. Then I went over the leather with some neatsfoot oil and that seemed to make the lightened areas blend with the dark areas. Now the leather looks very natural.. Hi Chief, I think you're right. Unfortunately though, dip dyeing requires a ton more dye than I can afford at the moment, but I may try that in the future....thanks for sharing your advise!
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