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thekid77

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About thekid77

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  1. wow, thank you so much for all of the info! I have heard of finishing "between" the layers, just never done it myself....and it didn't occur to me that that is what may be going on in the case of the photograph... I actually prefer poly thread, it's just that seeing the way these straps were done w linen piqued my curiosity as the ends of linen can't be burned to finish,and the maker stated that there was no glue used either.....I think process of elimination leaves a knot.....because I think a single backstitch left by itself would definitely work its way free over time, and I don't believe a maker of such a fine looking product would leave that to chance.... Thank you also for the link to the thread and to all of the wonderful content creators!! I have watched and loved Nigel and Ian's content for many yrs now.....time to revisit them and the others to learn more! Thanks again for sharing the best of the best!!
  2. Thank you Zulu!! I was told by a maker that they don't use any glue, and they were unwilling to share their technique. I get it, but I've always felt that this community has been very generous and open, even those who are in business for themselves have been willing to help (in my personal experience)... I really appreciate y'all taking the time to help me!! Any idea how they might be doing this without glue?
  3. hello leatherworker fam, please see photo - this is a watch strap stitched with linen thread..... I understand how the stitch is started, one hole back, stitch forward, then back, but..... how is the line of stitching ended?? you can't burn the end because it's linen, and only 1 back stitch seems like it would work itself loose over time..... can anyone explain?
  4. Thank you very much Arturo!! I appreciate you sharing hey Mike! I will have to try Ron's edger.....I've heard really good things about them
  5. hello friends, has anyone beveled the edge of thin leathers with sandpaper (around 400 grit) or Emory board?? I struggle to control the depth of the bevel with my common edgers, and find it easier and more controlled to just sand off the sharp corners with sandpaper or emory..... anybody else do this?? thoughts??
  6. really nice work!! do you make the holes w a sewing machine and then handstitch??
  7. this is beautiful work and materials.....I haven't done much leatherwork in the past few years and it looks like some really amazing types of leather have become available......love that pull up look... keep sharing!!
  8. Thanks for your advice Larry, I am going to stay away from the roller idea....seems like frustration and disaster waiting to happen lol...since the last comment, I've had luck swirly on a thin coat of resolene cut 40:60 resolene to water, applying it with one of the high density sponges from Tandy in smal circular motions.
  9. Hi Rocko, thank you for the reply unfortunately I put the clear coat on the pieces already...but I dyed a new piece and folded it up without the clearcoat to get the distressing out of the leather. Then I went over the leather with some neatsfoot oil and that seemed to make the lightened areas blend with the dark areas. Now the leather looks very natural.. Hi Chief, I think you're right. Unfortunately though, dip dyeing requires a ton more dye than I can afford at the moment, but I may try that in the future....thanks for sharing your advise!
  10. Hi friends, I have been dyeing leather with the Tandy Eco Flo Waterstain tan color. It seems like no matter how richly I apply the dye, after the leather dries, if I bend or fold it, the leather dye color in the areas that have been folded lightens up dramatically. Does anyone know of a way to address this problem? I only get this happening with certain dyes like the tan waterstain.....it doesn't happen with black or other colors....thank yo in advance for any insight you might be able to shar with me!
  11. I love it! What thickness is the kangaroo? How about the cowhide?
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