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mikbau

Members
  • Content Count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mikbau

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    michael.j.bauer@live.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.michaelbauerphotography.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maple Valley, WA
  • Interests
    Photography, Music, Leatherworking (obviously)

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags and satchels
  1. Thanks - I get that part - I guess it sounds like the dies to handle the posts are different...which I think is where my confusion is... with my hand tools, I have the flat bit, the convex bit, and the pencil-like tool to handle both posts...but it looks like the other tools have separate dies for the posts...
  2. Thanks Chuck...for the hand held sets..is the male/female post just handled the same way as opposed to having separate dies? ~m
  3. Howdy all I have a question about setting snaps - or, rather the tools to do so. I currently have one of the Osborne hand setting sets for Line 24 snaps - it's three pieces - the concave/flat "anvil", and the pencil-like tool to tap down the posts. I've been looking at the press-n-snap and the also the Tandy bench mounted hand press - both of which come with 4 dies... Can someone explain to me what the 4th die is that the kits from Osborne, Tandy, etc, don't have? And what makes it better/easier? Thanks! Michael
  4. Ok - for some reason I thought you put the oil on afterwords...since Neetsfoot blocks water, I thought perhaps it would block dye absorption as well
  5. Thanks guys... Matt - when you say "oil" first...what kind of oil? The Fiebings is just the standard dye, not the industrial or oil based. I've thinned it with isopropyl alcohol
  6. Howdy all I was experimenting with some Fiebings dye this evening...mixed up some colors with alcohol to thin it out. I managed to get the color I was after. I applied a couple of coats to some vegtan scraps, and let it dry for a bit. On a lark, I was curious as to how deep the dye penetrated the leather. Since I was planning on doing a bit of de stressing (and I didn't have any super fine steel wool handy) I lightly ran some used 1200 grid sandpaper over them, thinking it may just knock the sheen off...I was surprised how easily the surface and color came off. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do to get the color a bit deeper? I'm not so much worried about the de stressed bits as I am for any other projects I do where I want the finish to last a little better - or at least not show the vegtan through if it gets scraped lightly. I know applying a protective coating will help some. I'm new at dying (and leather working in general) so forgive me if this seems like a simple question. Thanks in advance for any and all advice Michael
  7. Hello all Wasn't really sure where this one might fit in terms of forum categories. I've put together a few small prototype items - briefcase/messenger bag, small purses/bags...I have several friends to either own clothing shops, or know people who do - all of whom are very interested in getting a couple pieces in their shop. For those of you who are cranking items out for sale...how many of you dye your own items, and how many have been able to consistently find sources of leather that are dyed the way/color you want while also being the quality of leather you are after? I'm asking because some of the Hermann Oak small pieces from Springfield would really fit the bill for some of my items - especially some of the prototypes. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and input Michael
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